tim82 Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Hi. I'm a new member and owner and this is my first post. So I'd just like to introduce myself. Firstly, I would just like to thank people here for their advice/experiences with their zeds as I have read a few posts regarding repairs/mods/diagnoses etc and its always valuable and helpful. I bought my zed in December, its an '05 gt spec and had a discounted price as it needed a new clutch and f/wheel which I had fitted. However a bit later it then developed a random misfire which I had repaired. (Turned out my spark plugs were dirty) and had a mini service and at this point it was running great. I'd like to ask a quick question to members as I now have an additional problem... Mine suffered very low oil pressure recently 0-5 psi whilst driving and I immediately pulled over, turned off engine and had it trailered to my local garage. I have been told that the oil pressure sensor/oil pump is ok. But that the earlier 350z models before '06 had an 'oil pump cog' made of a weaker/softer metal that wasnt present on later models. This cog supposedly degrades more easily and now I need a timing chain and oil pump kit and to fit which has the harder metal cog. It it would be 9 hours labour to fit, the kit being £200. Has anyone here heard of this softer metal cog issue? If you could help, I'd appreciate it as I've been a little unlucky so far. It's a great car and I'd like to see it working. Many thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 The oil pump drives directly off the crankshaft and not by a cog. Also a proper chain kit is nearer the £1000.00 mark. What garage are you using at present ? May be a plan to get a second opinion from a 350Z indy specialist. Where are you based, so we can advise further. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly350z Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Sounds like a load of rubbish to me and the garage don't know what they're talkig about. None of my local garages would even consider touching the chain let alone saying it was a 200 quid job lol. Id hazard more of a guess that its low on oil due to the dip stick being so difficult to read. And ive been quoted around 1500 for a timing chain. Id jump at 200 lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim82 Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Hi, I'm using a local garage, he's worked on my cars for a while and has been helpful so I just decided to take it there. He used the term 'cog' when describing the problem and it being a softer metal. Could it maybe be another part that suffers this issue? I've never heard of this issue and as I'm new to zeds it's an issue I need to research a lot. I am reluctant to buy the kit for £200 as this would undoubtedly be a non Nissan part at that price. As you say, it should be more expensive. And I dont want to fit such a vital part if the manufacturer/part isnt reliable I'm in Hampshire. You're right I do need additional opinions, I only had the diagnosis yesterday and came here first. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopedmark Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Never heard of or read anything regarding this listen to ZMANALEX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim82 Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Hi, It has had a service, so oil would therefore be ok. 4.7 litres was put in. So it shouldn't be low oil. I was told that the timing chain needs to come off to fit this part, hence why I'd need the timing chain kit. Im looking at 700 to fit in total, but I basically need to know if anyone has heard of this problem with this 'degrading/softer metal part'. Thank you, appreciate any input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly350z Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Not that I think you've burnt through 4.7Ls but the older DEs are known to burn oil excessively if driven hard. The dipstick is also pretty difficult to read. As Ive said, I don't think hes got a clue what hes talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim82 Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Ok, the thing is the oil was changed only two weeks previously and I have only done about 300 miles. I know having a low oil level can lead to low pressure but It shouldnt be that due to the recent oil change. I typed in 'oil gear softer metal 350z' to google and the first result with the title 'INFO' from the my350z website has some info, maybe this could be the issue? I think I'll take advice here and speak to a specialist. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim82 Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/584994-info-vq35de-rev-up-hr-oil-pumps-and-water-pumps.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly350z Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Have you actually Googled just exactly what has to come off to reach the oil pump and timing chain? The oil pumps driven by the crank and yes there have been issues on older De engines. But unless youve spent the lSt month revving it off the limiter then I just cant see it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-G- Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Reading that my350z link, they are referring to the material of the oil pumps internal components, not the chain, crank or any other external mechanism. If the oil pump is at fault, replace the oil pump? I presume he's stuck a proper hydraulic gauge on the engine to confirm the cluster gauge isn't at fault? I know the HR's & VHR's suffer from oil gallery gasket failure - has this been ruled out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim82 Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 yeah I havent driven it hard. It has had a new clutch, so I rarely took it above 4k whilst it was bedding in. He quoted labour at 9 hours. I'm trying to google as much as poss. it seems like a very rare diag. Ive emailed horsham and abbey for their advice. It sounds like it could be a few things. I was told that the pump was ok. The car hasnt been turned over for obvious reasons, I will need to ask a few questions on Monday. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Horsham Developments is probably only around an hour away from you going from your rough location. Tbh with something that could be as possibly serious as low oil pressure I'd really only trust it with a specialist like them who know their Zeds inside out. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim82 Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Thanks mate, Yeah, I've decided to speak to them. Hopefully Monday. I cant afford to fix it and then it turns out that that wasnt the problem. If its too expensive I may be forced to sell it as it is. Obviously being upfront about the issue and cut my losses. Not sure if itd get any interest. It has loads of receipts and is vgc. I'd love to fix it obviously, but its become too much so far. I hope it wont be too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopedmark Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Mate I would drop the oil, see how much is Actually in there then replace, just because a garage has ( supposedly) changed the oil it doesn't Acctually mean jack #hit, My mate had a Hayabusa, (motorcycle) and had it serviced at a reputable shop, he bought it to me when it stopped running, after doing a fault code test it came up cam sensor, I removed it and noticed that the cam wasn't moving on start, when I removed the head, I found that the cam chain had snapped and wrecked all 3 guides and bent 8 of 16 valves, the head was on the bench when he came round to look and he said whose head is that I said yours mate he said cant be as I had the shop put split fire plugs in on the last service well low and behold they had charged him for them and left the old ones in, so they probably changed nothing, lesson learnt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim82 Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Yeah that's possible. I know that sort of thing happens. When I first got the car I did a change and put in 5w40, but got a misfire few days after. After the garage did the service and another change (due to them thinking 5w40 was too thick and the reason for misfire, it was prob the plugs) the misfire cleared but then got low oil pressure. I think what I'll do is get it back, check oil over, get a specialist opinion/quote and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-G- Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 (edited) OK... First off, how long has it been running 5W40? If it's been a significant time / mileage I'd swap back to 5W40 as soon as you can. There's a possibility that your engine has bedded in with thicker oil and by reducing your viscosity there's a lot more play between components. Low oil pressure would also be one of the symptoms of using oil that's too thin. Not trying to scare you but find out ASAP what it's been getting serviced with and for how long. Edited January 21, 2017 by -G- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim82 Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Ok. I looked at the service history and it starts off its life with 10w40 semi then halfway through goes to 5w30 with one receipt near the end stating 5w40. So it's a mix. When I got it, it was quite low on oil. Since doing changes, I've had issues.. Though I've used the correct grade. Though the garage used 5w30, it was acea c3. Which I queried. Would that cause low pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-G- Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 I think this might be your issue. How many miles in total was the car run on 10W40? Also, what's the total mileage on your car? There's a thread on here ATM where the owner of a 200k mile 350z has mentioned increasing the weight grades of his oil as the engine went through the miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim82 Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 5w40 62k 5w40 at 72k then another one year later. 10/60 race oil at 78k 10w40 year later The earlier and later oil changes don't say what weight. But it was done. It's on 131k. The garage have put in 5w30. I stand corrected, i don't think it's had 5w30 before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Let's just step back. You say that that the oil pressure dropped from 0-5psi whilst driving and you pulled over. I guess that you do not know how long you were driving before you noticed the low oil pressure. Did the oil warning light come on ? How much oil is in the engine at present ? If the oil pressure was that low then I would expect your engine to be rattling its head off. So what to do is: From cold dip the oil and make sure it is at the correct level. Hook up an independent gauge directly to the engine with a known fully working gauge and check the oil pressure. Hopefully you will find that the oil pressure is good and that you either have a faulty oil pressure gauge or a faulty oil pressure sender unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim82 Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Ok.. I started the car previous day it was fine psi 55-65, but seemed to have lower power, and normally when driving it was always about 55psi Or thereabouts. I noticed on my way home the next day that the psi was at 15psi when driving. This got my attention, so I carried on looking at it, then noticed it down to 5-10. Then at junctions in neutral it went down to about 2psi. When I was driving, in higher revs it went up to 5. I was about a mile from home and noticed it at under 5 so I parked up on the side of the road. Literally As I parked up the oil light came on and it was on 0. Engine off. The oil change was about two weeks earlier. So I presume it'd be full. I think I'll do that. Thanks. There's no noises and we're none when I was driving. I've decided with your advice and other opinions that this whole "weak gear" thing is a bit dubious. And further more simpler tests need to be explored. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Good attitude: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillisRR Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 Have you checked your oil level now? I am sure you or the mechanic must of? The problems occuring would make sense if when you had it serviced last they may of not have put enough new oil back in the motor (we all know how much of a sh#t that dipstick is to read). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim82 Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 Hi, that is a possibility. And yeah it's hard, But he told me that he put in 4.7 litres, which as we know is the correct amount. Even if he didn't even change any, i had done the previous change two weeks earlier (and the level was spot on then, so it'd be full either way. I bought it with an aftermarket oil catch can. I'm not sure if this could cause any probs..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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