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W Brace replacement -Which one to go for?


Stephanie

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Hi Guys,

 

Had the Zed in the garage yesterday and was able to take a quick look underneath, immediately obvious the "W" brace needs replacing, it could probably last a while longer, maybe even a wire brush and hammerite jobby at a push (see attached photo of current brace)

 

20ad6a99549b36a9b970238c2fa2354e.jpg

 

..but I've had a quick search on eBay and you can pick up a brand new Ultra racing brace for £139 delivered, the Zeds booked in the garage in a couple weeks anyway and will be on ramps so will be easy/cheap enough labour wise to take off the old and bolt on the new -well that's what I thought...

 

Done some reading and spoken to ZMANALEX and the UR braces stick out more than OEM, which could prove a problem.. she's sat on tein lowering springs so is pretty low, but is she too low for a UR brace? Don't want every speed bump being a PITA.

 

Anybody have a UR brace with a low Zed?

 

b28332f708cfe94655d099cb19b93dba.jpg

 

4ba55ff7c710463708cef5a5030b5c05.jpg

 

de8aa74c9973dd5e338a153414cf5062.jpg

 

Trying to show the clearance in the above photos - not the easiest to take, not the best shots 😬 Side skirts do make her look lower than she is also☺ï¸

 

Any experience/advice of the braces will be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Stephanie
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I ran the Summit braces on my old one (the UR ones are a copy of their design), and even though my car wasn't lowered it did scrape a bit. Not a lot, but enough to take the paint off it.

 

Personally I'd just brush over and paint your existing.

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Hmmm decision time🤔

 

Thankyou for all suggestions/advice -much appreciated.

 

Perhaps this is one thing that doesn't need splashing on. More in the pocket for other partsðŸ‘ðŸ¼

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Stephanie
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Removed mine last year and cleaned as much of the surface rust off as possible, gave it 2 coats of Bilt Hambers Hydrate 80 which I must say is fantastic stuff and then 2 coats of smoothrite on top.

Refitted using copper grease on all the bolts, also while doing an engine & gearbox oil change gave all the bolts holding any covers underneath the same treatment.

 

Just a note on the Hydrate 80, I gave a rusty old antique wheel that I had from my old farmer mate a couple of coats of it at the same time, it stands out in all weathers and the surface rust that it had changed to black looks like I painted it yesterday, didn't put any top coat paint on that by the way.

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Safe? Yeah. Good idea? Nope. It'll make the car wobbly as anything, as essentially it's doing a very important job of connecting the two sides of the car together, so you'd find extra wear on suspension components and a hell of a lot of scuttle shake. The chassis would be trying to twist itself every corner.

 

It may look a bit naff and flimsy, but you'd be surprised at just effective things like that are from an engineering POV.

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Safe? Yeah. Good idea? Nope. It'll make the car wobbly as anything, as essentially it's doing a very important job of connecting the two sides of the car together, so you'd find extra wear on suspension components and a hell of a lot of scuttle shake. The chassis would be trying to twist itself every corner.

 

It may look a bit naff and flimsy, but you'd be surprised at just effective things like that are from an engineering POV.

 

Noted, ill get hunting for a new one then :)

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