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Clutch pedal Knocking fix (picture Heavy)


Spoons

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Something I was intending to share ages ago I never had chance.

 

My 2008 HR developed a clutch pedal knocking not long after i purchased it, I did the usual and googled and searched the forum hell out of it. There were all sorts of suggestions, from lubricating the assistance spring pivot bolts, to it been a collapsing clutch diaphram in the clutch cylinder. I started by spraying a multitude of lubicants on every pivot bolt and moving bush on the clutch pedal to no avail. The knocking sound also came with a very off putting notchy knock on the bottom of your foot every time you depressed the clutch pedal, this completly ruined the driving experiance and well pi**ed me off.

 

If the above sounds familiar then this may help you fellow 350Z owners. This thread is a step by step guid to a clutch pedal removal and knocking cure. The knocking fault was diagnosed to be coming from the main pivot bolt that the clutch pedal is secured with. When the clutch pedal assembly is in situe it is an absalute sod to get even eyes on it let alone touch it. BE WARNED PACTIANCE AND ACROBATICS/KAMASUTRA POSITIONS REQUIRED.

 

Diagnosis- Very tricky and a pain. You need to get your hand up the side of the pedal assembly and by feel put your fingers on the main pivot bolt. The next trick is to depress the pedal without breaking fingers or arms. You should feel the knochy knock transmit through the bolt. Sounds simple doesn't it.......

 

If you want to go to Nissan and purchase a new Clutch pedal pivot/mounting bolt feel free (not sure it will help, I didn't ). The problem that causes the Knocking is the slop that developes from this pivot bolt, posibly from the nut slackening slightly, or the hole in the pedal box wearing where it pivots/slots through. Anyway I fixed it with a washer, some grease and tightening the bolt a little more. Lasted 10 thousand miles so far, touch wood. Just thought I would give you the heads up before you start so you have the option of buying one.

 

First two pictures are of the main pivot bolt in question. Very easy to do when its out of the car ;)

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Ok first you need to remove door trim and the plastic panels from under the steering wheel. You will need to disconnect the bonnet pull, ABS button, Petrol cap Button and Headlight washer button.

 

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Take these three bolts out

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Now ease the panel away by hand

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When down you need to remove the previously mention plugs and cable

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Also remove the in car temp sensor

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All that for this one panel, I know what your thinking......

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Next the steering column lower cowl needs to be removed, 4 x bolts if i remember right.

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Finally you have sight of your anoying clutch pedal box assembly.

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There are three bolts holding the pedal box assembly to the bulck head and dash cross memeber, but first you need to remove the computer module infront of the pedal and two plugs on the pedal itself. More pics.....

 

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VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU REMOVE THE SPLIT PIN THAT CONECTS THE PEDAL TO THE CLUTCH CYLINDER BEFORE REMOVING THE PEDAL BOX MOUNTING POLTS.

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UPPER MOUNTING BOLT

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There are two bolt that hold the clutch cylinder to the bulkhead and hold the clutch pedal assebly in place as well.

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At this point the clutch pedal will now drop out, BUT...as you will now find try as you might there is not enough room to pull it past the frame work that the computer module mounts to. Unless you are a better man than me then simply bend this enough to free the pedal box and then bend it back on re-fit.

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TAAHDAAH

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Ok so with it on the bench remove the pivot bolt nut and slide the bolt out. You will note that the bolt is very specific as it has been turned down to a smaller size at the threaded end so it acts as a crush bar for the pedal box when the nut is tightened. Stay with me as I forgot to take a picture. The pedal box is made of two layers of steel where the bolt passes through, the thread on the bolt stops just before the step on the bolt. This is where the wear occures and the notchy knocking is the thread catching between the two layers of steel. I greased the plastic bush and the pivot bolt and then re-fit the bolt. Then placed a washer on before re-fitting the nut. Tighten the nut firmly and test the pedal on the bench. I found that the washer and the extra tension help stop the twist on the bolt, so the thread doesn't notch on the two steel layers. I hope that wasn't two confusing and with the couple of picture will be clear enough.

 

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All thats left now is to get the bloody thing back in, hope the back is still up for it. I recomend booking a Chiropractor appointment for the same afternoon you do this little job lol. Best of luck and hope this helps.

Edited by Spoons
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Good on yer Spoons, a very comprehensive write up and photo description of how to cure this problem.

 

As regards Kama Sutra positions, I think I'll give that one a miss as my back wouldnt take it. I can just about get in and out of the zed!!

Hmm..... always wondered why you had a huge grin on yer face? :p

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  • 2 months later...

Hell, I'm going to have to do this, it's been driving me mad and, like you, I've squirted all sorts of lube at it to no avail.

Superb tutorial, big thanks.

if it just helps one person it was worth doing, my fingers are crossed for you pal. Just make sure you check the easy basic stuff first, the assistance spring could be one culprit that doesn't need full pedal removal. Hope you get it sorted either way.
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