Exec Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 Has anybody painted panels or alloys before with a spray gun? I know there will be some people here with repair/ refurb experience. I'm considering buying a gun and compressor and having a go myself painting my alloys & my father's. At the moment I'm just eyeing up a decent gun and equipment and undecided whether to go for a mini jet which would probably be better for what I want or picking up a second hand gun such as the devilbliss gti (seen one for £120 on ebay) Also tip sizes, most are 1.3 and I wondered if there's an ideal tip size for primer/ base coat/ laquer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZEUS Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 (edited) Get on YouTube there are lots of vids and advice on there. Edited November 9, 2016 by ZEUS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LDUNKZ18 Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 hey exec, I'm a spray painter and i'd say your probably choosing the wrong thing to practice on as wheels are difficult to paint especially when your just learning, usually why people get them powder coated, not only that but its mainly getting your prep work right as if this isn't correct then your paintwork will suffer. gun wise personally i hate mini jets as they're a waste of time and money imo. get yourself a decent second hand devilbiss gti pro, makes all the difference having a quality made gun to do the job. 1.3mm needle is what i'd recommend. this does depend on weather your going to start painting more than just a few set of wheels, if you dont want to spend alot of cash get a cheap sealey gun see how you get on and if you do ok and enjoy it then get a devilbiss. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonk Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 (edited) As above, I started off with a cheap gun and compressor and lots of practice priming the e type panels with epoxy primer. Primer is pretty forgiving to learn with. For top coat the art is keeping a wet edge so it doesn't go on dry or with lots of over spray. Complex stuff like wheels can be a bit tricky. Get a good filter and moisture separator for the compressor otherwise you will end up with moisture going through your gun and paint. Make sure the compressor is big enough to supply enough air for the gun and isn't constantly running to keep up. I find a gravity fed gun much easier to work with and the better ones you can change the size of the pot or even use disposable pots ( my favourite) I'm lucky enough to have a decent gun and compressor now and I certainly notice the difference with the gun. Prep and cleanliness is everything. Buy a load of gun wash thinners and strip the gun down and clean it properly after use. Get a good respirator suitable for the type of paint you are using. 2 pack paint contents nasty isocyanates. Proper graduated mixing plastic pots are quite useful as are the free stirrers McDonald's and Costa kindly supply in vast quantities for free. Oh and get yourself a big box of disposable gloves. Have fun. Edited November 9, 2016 by leonk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exec Posted November 9, 2016 Author Share Posted November 9, 2016 Thanks guys, iv seen a 50l 14.6cfm compressor I like the look of. Iv been told moisture traps are essential, i think il try and get that second hand devilbliss gti and a cheap fast mover mini jet for primer. Wheels are tricky I know, but if I mess them up I can redo them. Panels are a bit different! I will practice on a scrap door or the fridge freezer or something. Maybe get a knackered alloy from somewhere to practice on. My dad's wheels on his passat are crap so I can have a go painting his when I feel I've got the hang of it! Wheels also hide minor imperfections. Panels don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exec Posted November 9, 2016 Author Share Posted November 9, 2016 The last thing I want is to be flatting out a laquer run! Even on a wheel. I'm going to practice, practice and practice before I try painting anything of value. I just don't want to buy cheap and buy twice really. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LDUNKZ18 Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 handy tip... anything can be fixed when it comes to paint jobs.. dont be afraid of the gun. get a scrap panel like you say and just play with the gun, have a look on google for spray patterns this helps you get the right pattern incase the gun is needing cleaned more otherwise u can end up with bottom heavy top heavy etc.. also when i'm using devilbiss i always turn my needle knob, which is the second knob down when holding the gun in your hand so basically the knob thats above your hand, all the way in, keep in mind where the mark on it is and turn it out 3 full turns, some people maybe do it different but can look this all up online, i just find this is a good set up for devilbiss guns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willsy1980 Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 If you strip the wheels right back, etch prime them first, then a decent high build primer. As said prep is key and don't try to rush the job. Personally I always do the inside first, quick flip down and carry on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonk Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 And I know it sounds obvious, but good lighting, it's no good if you can't see what you're doing. Heating as well, I've got a couple of quartz halogen panel heaters. I warm the garage up first with a gas heater/blower but turn it off while I'm painting so I've not got bits blowing on the panels. Get a big tarpaulin from Toolstation etc. only a tenner, and use that as a backdrop behind what you are spraying so paint doesn't go everywhere. You can also use it for testing the gun on while you set it up prior to painting the item. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exec Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 Thanks guys, I'm learning everyday lol. Today iv found out the difference between etch primer and regular primer, and never to use the same gun for primer as you would for basecoat/ laquer. I'm going to buy the kit after Xmas and read up until then on what to do/ what not to do. You may take the above for granted but that's because you've probably done it before! Also been looking at some patio heaters to bake alloys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brillomaster Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 (edited) i'm gonna ghetto spray my track wheels, which are currently sprayed black. my plan is to give them a quick wash (faces only - aint nobody got time for the insides as well!), then rattle can on some primer, then rattle can on a few coats of ford electric blue. then replace the tyres. bish bash bosh should take about 20 minutes. I don't recommend this method if you want them to look good. Edited November 11, 2016 by brillomaster 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricey Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 Nice and light with your etch. In fact nice and light with all ypur coats until lacquering time then you want a grip coat (light) and a couple of wet coats. Echo all of the sentiments above Wheels are a proper git to paint. Very hard to get your wet coat on without causing a run (but you can blow a run out by putting more paint on if you catch it early enough). Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exec Posted November 12, 2016 Author Share Posted November 12, 2016 Thanks guys! Any tips for lacquering spokes? Do the faces first and then carefully lay it in between or spokes first then faces? I'm doing my touring alloys first that are fairly rounded so I won't have a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 12, 2016 Share Posted November 12, 2016 (edited) Gun settings and technique are key when spraying wheels, the trick is to know./realise the surfaces that paint/lacquer will build the most and avoid it, Where are you going to be spraying? if its an un heated garage you will need to heat in this weather, and also use a quick hardener and thinner to avoid runs and bloom, which you probably will get if you try and spray on a damp day even with heating. Edited November 12, 2016 by Tricky-Ricky 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exec Posted November 12, 2016 Author Share Posted November 12, 2016 Spraying in the garage, I plan on getting some patio heaters to bake/ warm before paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exec Posted November 13, 2016 Author Share Posted November 13, 2016 (edited) Compressors - bigger the better? I know it's all about cfm but I'm looking at burisch 50l and 100l Compressors both putting out about 14 cfm, price difference is £210 as opposed to £270. I might as well get the bugger one and not regret having the smaller one right? Both 3hp Edited November 13, 2016 by Exec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willsy1980 Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 At this time of year i'd be tempted to rent some workshop space and booth time at a local body shop, you would be surprised how many will help you out. A lot will just charge you for the sundries you use, tape, paper, sanding pads etc Plus their painter will no doubt be in to lend advise if needed. Probably cost less than buying a compressor and the electric bill to run the heat lamps, which are less than ideal for this kinda of work in winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonk Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 (edited) I miss being able to spray stuff in the garage now the shell is back. Fortunately the guys at the bodyshop I used were kind enough to let me use one of their booths. I took the parts, materials and my own gun. While it was really kind of them, I did feel a bit in the way and if I'm honest under pressure to do a decent job incase they took the p!ss. There is then the hassle of waiting while it baked and hardened, and worry of chipping something transporting it home. Edited November 14, 2016 by leonk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 I have been lucky enough to have mates in both the garage and body shop trade, so with being able to buy paint at trade, and bunging them a few quid, i have ended up spraying quite a few of my cars over the years, i have even fitted body kits and prepped cars at the side of the road, along with spraying door and bonnet shuts...became i a bit of a local celebrity at one stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricey Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 Its a good point tricky made there as well. You CAN go to any proper trade paint supplier and buy decent products without being trade. Not saying itll be cheap but it will be better quality than using Halfords for example. Theyll probably even advise you on guns, nozzle sizes, best lacquer/hardner, primers etc. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliveBoy Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 I used www.paints4u.com for some paint, I'd highly recommend them. They even mixed some paint and put it into aerosol for me so I could test it for a colour match without buying the whole lot first. Super helpful over the phone too, they helped me find a code for a 1968 chevy paint colour they only made for the year out of one factory in California! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 I used www.paints4u.com for some paint, I'd highly recommend them. They even mixed some paint and put it into aerosol for me so I could test it for a colour match without buying the whole lot first. Super helpful over the phone too, they helped me find a code for a 1968 chevy paint colour they only made for the year out of one factory in California! Me too! they do very good paints and quite a lot of great colours, including some flip stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exec Posted November 14, 2016 Author Share Posted November 14, 2016 Thanks guys, to be honest, I deal with bodyshops everyday most of whom would be happy to help me out. I just fancy a go myself doing small bits in my garage. Like somebody else said, I'd feel a bit in the way! Not to mention im exploring all avenues for advice because I feel like I'm hounding painters lately with all my questions! Lol Iv also came to the conclusion I'm probably best buying a mini jet. Full size guns take 15cfm or more and I'm looking at 14 cfm Compressors (probably the 50l) 3hp V engined one. So I'd probably not be able to efficiently run a full sized gun as opposed to a mini jet. I'm not looking at painting anything massive (bodyshops for that!) not to mention their better compressor and particularly filtration. And their time served experience of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricey Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 Make sure you keep all of your cleaning products elsewhere otherwise youll be doing what im doing today.......sanding 'effing silcone fisheyes out of a beautifully hydrodipped piece. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliveBoy Posted November 15, 2016 Share Posted November 15, 2016 (edited) When I got my truck, it had some exposed metal on the rear of the cab. I sanded all the rust off it, chucked some primer on it, waited a bit and then chucked some bright blue over that. 10 months later, I sanded back the paint, repaired the metal, filled etc it and then primered it all. I left it to dry and came back to something that looked like this: It took me half a day of sanding, primering, sanding, primering etc to get rid of all the reactants in the paints as all the sanding was bringing up more of the reactants Always use products which are designed to go together, otherwise you'll be cursing for a long time Edited November 15, 2016 by AliveBoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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