350z questions for a new possable owner.

[Hazza1190]

Hello all!

 

Im new to the forum as i am really hoping to get myself a 350z in the next few months/in the spring next year.

Each day i look up about the zed and get more and more excited to own one, but i have only recently started looking into them so i don't really know too much about them at this point.

 

I just have a few questions about the car (which i bet you get all the bloody time) so im sorry if its a repeat, i just thought id ask you myself so that i could work my way into the community at the same time.

 

Firstly, is there anything in particular that i should be looking for when purchasing the car? So for example, are there any mileage related changes that i should be looking out for like 'make sure the cam-belts\chain have been changed at XXXXXX amount of miles'? Furthermore, are there any common mechanical related issues i should be wary of; mainly engine based but do they ever suffer from rust? If so, where would be a vital place to check?

Im looking to spend around the £5-6K mark, is that a realistic budget for a car with fairly low mileage? - On that note, is it important to get a car with low mileage or are the mechanical aspects of the car good enough to not worry if it has up to 100k miles?

 

In regards to insurance, i have only recently turned 20 with 2 years of holding my licence so im not expecting it to be cheap, but have any of you guys found a good insurer which tends to be the cheapest for younger drivers on cars like these? The lowest i have found was about £1100.

 

I do have lots of other questions but i cant think of them just know so i'll address them at a later date.

 

Thanks for your help in advance,

 

Regards,

Harry.

Edited November 8, 2016 by Hazza1190

[350Z paradise]

Welcome along Harry Happy Z hunting

[Strudul]

I'll let someone else with more experience cover the first bit

 

£6k should get you a decent DE, though I wouldn't expect "low" mileage. From what I read, it sounds like the engine will happily do 200k+ if well maintained, but you're gonna have to replace other stuff along the way (tranny / gearbox stuff).

 

As for insurance, that sounds pretty good. I'm paying ~£942 at 22 with a licence held for <2 years and no NCB with Admiral with a Multi Car discount.

[Ekona]

Always buy on condition, not mileage.

[veeg33]

Hello and welcome GLWTH !!

[Juggalo]

Gearboxes can be a bit agricultural. They can crunch into 2nd when cold.

People have also complained of other gears doing the same, but 2nd seems to be the most common.

I've read where people have had the GB rebuilt, only to have the issue return very soon. It's not really an issue. The gearboxes are tough as nuts and I haven't heard of one failing yet.

 

Rear arches can rust, so get your fingers under there and check.

 

Fuel filler cover can be ill fitting, but that can be adjusted

 

W brace can rust out, but they're cheap to replace.

 

All I can think of at the moment.

Mileage shouldn't be a deciding factor, I think some guy on here is approaching a quarter million miles. I've seen sheds with a few tens of thousands of miles. Like any vehicle.

Get one that's been obvioulsy looked after (Battered rims = Owner didn't give a @*!#). Check MOT history online. You can't go far wrong.

[coldel]

If you can get both, good condition and good mileage is ideal, will make selling on a much easier job as the UK is well known as being a fickle lot when it comes to miles on cars. Although for 5-6k you are looking at the very bottom end of the range of cars available so likely to get only one or the other.

 

Otherwise there are some great threads with buying guides on here, one thread on what happens at 100k miles and needs replacing. Have a dig through the site.

[Ridz]

Just another comment in support of checking the rear wheel arches for signs of rusting as rectification work can be expensive.

Edited November 8, 2016 by Ridz

[The Trouser]

Just another comment in support of checking the rear wheel arches for signs of rusting as rectification work can be expensive.

Agreed. Just booked mine in to be fixed soon - but what can you do

 

Window motors (both sides) are a known common fail.

[Willsy1980]

I'd offer the advise of look at and drive a few, take them for a good run too. Get them working all through the rev range on a variety of roads.

And the obvious one, if it been warmed up before you get there. Walk away.

[Andy_Muxlow]

Hi welcome along and good hunting buddy. Steer clear of jct 17 cars that my sound advice!! 🙂

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[samsniss350z]

Hi Harry, welcome to the forum. As has already been mentioned, rear wheel arches tend to rust and this is due to road crud collecting in the inner lip, when wet it takes an age to dry out and accelerates the rust. Just run your fingers along the inner lip and if you can feel all of the lip then it's been taken care of.

Ajay Panchal who designed the 350Z originally came from Leicester, the name of the guy who designed the DE, whose name escapes me engineered it to cover 200,000 miles with regular servicing and has been already mentioned there are are a few that have covered 230k +.

Make sure there is history, service history, invoices, the more the better. Download the "vehicle Smart" app and it will tell you the MOT history, fails, advisories and mileage. That'll give you an idea if general maintenance has been carried out.

Make sure (if possible) to find out if its been run on 98Ron or Shell V-Power as 95 ron fuel can do a fair bit of damage. I think Mark from Abbey Motorsport downloaded a thread of what 95ron can do to a DE engine.

Read as much as you can on this forum as its full of do's and don'ts and general knowledge.

If possible ask a knowledgeable forum member who is close to you or where the vehicle is that you're checking out and ask them to give it a once over with you.

AS previously mentioned, the gearbox can be a bit agricultural and synchro's between 5th and 6th can fail and when cold changes from 1st to 2nd can be a bit stiff.

Window motors fail, but brushes can be bought for a fiver and they're easy to fit, I fixed my passenger motor and its lasted nearly three years and is still going strong and its a damn sight cheaper fix than buying an OEM motor.

I've had my Zed for just over four years and other than an exhaust, tyres and a battery a drivers side window motor (replaced under warranty) its been totally reliable and i still smile every time i climb into it.

Happy hunting, i hope this helps.

[veilside z]

Hello and welcome

[Oggieteepo]

Just another comment in support of checking the rear wheel arches for signs of rusting as rectification work can be expensive.

 

Seconded, have a good look for rust all round. At the back literally get your hand up in the arches and rub under the sill to check how much dirt has built up there as samsniss350z said.

 

I am approaching 95k, buy original clutch went at 89k so anything around 70-90k on an original clutch I'd be put some aside for a replacement and making sure that's reflected in the price (£750-£1000 without going mad).

 

I always like the car to be cold when I arrive to see what she sounds like cold and then hot, check the oil pressure as she warms up - Already mentioned.

 

Ask about any evidence of being run on his octane rather than regular for a bonus (I should have read all the posts above properly).

 

Check both windows work (as already mentioned).

 

So all the stuff has already been said - Oh I have one...

 

Its a bit of a ballache but if you can or have a look the ability too check the spark plugs in Cylinder 6 (think it was 6 anyway). The DE (maybe the HR?) suffered from leaky rocker cover gasket which seemed to mainly affect one side more than the other, (furthest plug on the right side when looking at the car from the front). The gasket forms part of the rocker cover and the whole units are very expensive (for what they are). There is a DIY kit (ask Torquen/Adrian), but involves taking a hole cutter to your rocker cover depending on how confident you are at that sort of thing.

Edited November 9, 2016 by Oggieteepo

[Davewilkins]

As a new owner (last four weeks), some good advice given earlier.I went to look at a car advertised on here that looked mint in the photos and (IMHO) was not mint when I looked at it. I travelled a long way to see it and was very disappointed. Found another fifty miles from home, 85k miles, good history and very good condition. Lots of receipts. Quite tidy under the bonnet which I always look for on adverts as a really dirty engine with loads of leaves and grime is not a good sign. I intend to give my a really good clean under the bonnet.

Don't rush, take your time and look at a few.

this is worth waiting for. I have gone from a 600bhp skyline to a near standard Z and I love it. I look forward to driving home from work on the days I take it in. On a sprint track I was not so excited, but that is not what I got the car for.

I am trying to convert all my friends to Z owners!

Awesome car. Bargain at the price.

Lastly, read all of the buying guides on here.

[Hazza1190]

Hi Guys,

 

First of all id like to thank you all very much for your warm welcomes and to all those who has given some awesome advice, The zed community seems like a good one indeed; all the more reason to buy one then eh?

 

All of your information has given me some much needed confidence as to what i need to look out for when buying my one in the coming few months, im very excited to say the least!!!

 

Im going to have a bit of a trawl through this forum to find some relevant posts like some of you have suggested.

 

If anyone does have any more do's/dont's and things to look out for etc, it would be very greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks again!

 

Harry.

[ZEUS]

Welcome along

[Steel Lynx]

Welcome to the forum Harry

[DrMurderDeath]

Just got mine. Here's my experience...

Let the car warm up on the drive / forecourt and wait to see if the fans engage. Mine had an overheating issue due to the fans not kicking in. Luckily it was spotted prior to purchase, a replacement Mishimoto fan kit and fitting will be nearly £300.

Also listen out for noises from the rear which could mean the drive shafts need repacking with grease, not a pricey job but you may aswell get the seller to pay for it eh! The driveshaft is hollow carbon and can make it sound much worse than it is too, one garage diagnosed this as a gearbox issue needing a rebuild!

Gearbox is notchy straight from the factory but after 1 week of ownership I can confirm that once you have gone a few miles and everything has started to warm up it then it improves. Clutch bite is also quite high on all the ones I drove (not a clutch on the way out).

Petrol flap can be stubborn to open on some cars so double check it pops open with just one press, again not a pricey fix but why should you have to pay.

It is common for owners to brighten up the interior with vent trims, they are self adhesive but some owners used glue to make sure they didn't peel off so if you want to remove them it may leave marks.

The wheels are prone to laquer peel so check them for finish as you may want to respray them.

On the whole though awesome cars and great to drive, don't be put off by this list just try not to buy with your heart (not something I am good at to be honest).

Good luck.

[tobyn123]

welcome mate, I was looking this time last year and its been a pleasure - I still smile when shes freshly polished and love the head turning caused by, Ill second what was said about the clutch - mine went around 100k and cost me just shy of a grand, I have the DE model also - though not the most powerful etc if monies on your mind it is £200 a year less to tax which is a bonus. They can be a bit heavy on oil consumption - It seems luck of the draw for if yours is or not.

either way enjoy.

 

T

[ZMANALEX]

to the forum Harry and happy hunting: