saint Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 Hi guys, My engines completely dying at 4000rpm, such that it wont rev any higher. The top speed is now around 80mph and it will only get there by short shifting, a Punto had me at the lights this morning... Ive got not warning light, and my OBD scanner shows no errors are present. I've checked the wheels are free to rotate in neutral, and the car isnt pulling so its not a brake dragging. It seems to rev freely in neutral, but then again the engines not having to turn anything. No weird noises, still pops and bangs as always. Ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilo Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 (edited) i had this problem on an old 3.0 v6 406 coupe .turned out to be air system blocked and not letting enough air in .. exactly same symptoms as your getting Edited November 8, 2016 by wilo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saint Posted November 8, 2016 Author Share Posted November 8, 2016 That's on my to do list - going to try some K&N cleaner on my filter. Hope it doesnt dye it red, i hear it does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilo Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 tbh i would have a quick run without the filter element in place for a 100% sure check..if it runs fine above 4000k youll know then ...hth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docwra Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 More than likely a problem with the air flow meter, for some reason they dont always show up on OBD dooberrys. Unplug it, and if nothing has changed Id wager thats your cuplrit 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricey Posted November 8, 2016 Share Posted November 8, 2016 ^more likely unless your CAI is totally gooped up which is pretty unlikely. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saint Posted November 8, 2016 Author Share Posted November 8, 2016 When I ran the magical dooberry thingy I did a live scan of air flow reading vs rpm and it increases nicely with rpm. But that said I have no idea what the plot would look like on a healthy car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samsniss350z Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 definitely sounds like its being starved of air which points to an air intake problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docwra Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 definitely sounds like its being starved of air which points to an air intake problem. Not quite what I was getting at, if the AFM is foobed the car cant meter its air, so goes into limphome mode to protect engine ........... which wont let you rev over 4K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inspiral Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 Possibly the fuel filter partially blocked and only letting a limited amount of fuel through ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saint Posted November 17, 2016 Author Share Posted November 17, 2016 Here's an update: Cleaning air filter didnt help Taking air filter off didnt help Car wouldnt run without a MAF, so couldnt test that Done 100 miles with fuel additive to clean injectors, didnt help Cleaned MAF sensor with contact cleaner, didnt help However, the car has randomly come back alive. It did the same on Saturday for no reason at all. When it runs fine, the cruise control works, but when the power isnt there the cruise control light blinks rapidly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 Its either not getting enough air of fuel, i thought limp mode limited to a lower RPM?, anyway as said check AFM and also fuel flow/pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy_Baton Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 When the ECM detects any of the followng conditions, the ECM will cancel the cruise operation and inform the driver by blinking the indicator lamp. -Engine cooleant temperature is slightly higher than the normal operating temperature, CRUISE lamp may blink slowly. When the engine coolant termperature decreases to the normal operating temperature, CRUISE lamp will stop blinking and the cruise operation will be able to work by pressing SET/COAST switch or RESUME/ACCELERATE switch. -Malfunction for some self-diagnosis regarding ASCD control:SET lamp will blink quickly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy_Baton Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 (edited) I I did some googling around this and in particular the cruise control flashing and it seems there are loads of people with similar symptoms but different causes. It sounds like the ECU is putting the car in failsafe mode. You need to figure out why that is. From what I can tell it could be (but not limited to) any of the below: Broken MAF Clogged CATS High Alternator output (increased Volts tripping ECU into failsafe) Voltage spikes caused by something else Damaged wires leading into the ECU Broken ECU Edited November 17, 2016 by Randy_Baton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docwra Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 It sounds like the ECU is putting the car in failsafe mode. You need to figure out why that is. Broken MAF See above, any of the others would almost certainly appear on an OBD check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shire350Z Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 Strange answer but check the wiring to the rear lights, you may find that solves your problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ph 7 Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 ditto on rear lights..i had a short there when putting mine in...exactly same issue I could detect it by turning my lights off....engine back to normal then instantly...damn the dark nights Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shire350Z Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 Crazy these Japanese folks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ph 7 Posted November 17, 2016 Share Posted November 17, 2016 scared me to death when it happened....though I had a massive engine failure. I drove to a restaurant in daylight - no issues, then the drama started on the return drive home at night. took me a day to figure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saint Posted November 18, 2016 Author Share Posted November 18, 2016 ditto on rear lights..i had a short there when putting mine in...exactly same issue I could detect it by turning my lights off....engine back to normal then instantly...damn the dark nights Interesting, since I did recently have a set of carlab lights installed by.... the infamous Rick of Meduza. He basically scissored through every wire and re-connected them again... I will test this one, and my other theory is that it only seems to go wrong when the "Icy" LCD is showing. For the sake of £25 I will get a MAF too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saint Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Just a late update on this, since I fixed the issue! It was indeed faulty brake light wiring - bloody Rik at Meduza had wired the brakes completely wrong and as such I found TWO different wires going into the positive on the right hand side connector. It was shorting and the ECU was putting the car into limp mode as a precaution. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsexr Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 Classic...yer have to just luv modern cars 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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