Chris`I Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 You are bedding the brake pads into the set-up (caliper and disc). Phil has a method that I think you'll find in the guides section. EDIT: - here you go. http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11193 Hmm will get someone else to do this for me any offers lol I'll come and give your car some beans! lol sweet, got 100 shot of nos to, sure you can handle it? 'Insert some cool Fast and the Furious quote' No worries! Obviously Jay cant with his granny shifting thats why he wants someone else to bed it in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedrush Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 Youll be lucky not to blow the welds on the intake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigphil Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 Phil Im coming to get the PF of you, Andrew knows about it in ~March, is it possible to pre-bed them before fitting on the car in order to stop them crystalising When we fit discs or pads we do the bedding in so the car is ready to go (or stop as the case maybe) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 Phil Im coming to get the PF of you, Andrew knows about it in ~March, is it possible to pre-bed them before fitting on the car in order to stop them crystalising When we fit discs or pads we do the bedding in so the car is ready to go (or stop as the case maybe) A great example of someone thinking who the customer is and explaining things at a level they will understand!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedrush Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 Phil Im coming to get the PF of you, Andrew knows about it in ~March, is it possible to pre-bed them before fitting on the car in order to stop them crystalising When we fit discs or pads we do the bedding in so the car is ready to go (or stop as the case maybe) A great example of someone thinking who the customer is and explaining things at a level they will understand!! cheers Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H5 Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 Phil Im coming to get the PF of you, Andrew knows about it in ~March, is it possible to pre-bed them before fitting on the car in order to stop them crystalising When we fit discs or pads we do the bedding in so the car is ready to go (or stop as the case maybe) A great example of someone thinking who the customer is and explaining things at a level they will understand!! cheers Phil Don't worry, if it was me he would have had to put 'when you press the middle pedal' on the end! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedrush Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 Phil Im coming to get the PF of you, Andrew knows about it in ~March, is it possible to pre-bed them before fitting on the car in order to stop them crystalising When we fit discs or pads we do the bedding in so the car is ready to go (or stop as the case maybe) A great example of someone thinking who the customer is and explaining things at a level they will understand!! cheers Phil Don't worry, if it was me he would have had to put 'when you press the middle pedal' on the end! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bronzee Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 If you do a search, EBC yellowstuff seem to come out with lots of recomendations.That's what I bought and I'm very pleased. Good for road and track. I've been looking at pad and rotor upgrades at the moment. EBC Yellows seem to have a higher heat range than the red's, but I haven't come across anyone who's used them here yet. Also looking at Endless, Project Mu and Ferodo 2500, but a mate of mine with 2500's on his 350, hasn't been impressed with cold bite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigphil Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 If you do a search, EBC yellowstuff seem to come out with lots of recomendations.That's what I bought and I'm very pleased. Good for road and track. I've been looking at pad and rotor upgrades at the moment. EBC Yellows seem to have a higher heat range than the red's, but I haven't come across anyone who's used them here yet. Also looking at Endless, Project Mu and Ferodo 2500, but a mate of mine with 2500's on his 350, hasn't been impressed with cold bite. If he is having a problem with cold bite the pads have not been bedded in correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tere Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 What is the best way to bed wheelsYou're bedding the pads specifically to your rotors -- you're laying down a fine coating of pad material on the rotors and tempering the pads by heating them up. I do it a little differently depending on the pad -- race pads need to be heated up higher than street pads during bedding. Street pads: About five hard slow-downs (brake force just below where ABS would engage) from around 40-45 to about 5. Cool by driving normally for a bit (in an area where you don't have to stop). About five hard slow-downs (same technique) from 60-65. Repeat the cooling process. Be sure not to come to a complete stop or set the emergency brake until the pads and rotors have cooled to normal temperatures. Race pads: Add a third set of hard slow-downs from over 100. Bedding generally gives much better brake performance over the life of the pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedrush Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 What is the best way to bed wheelsYou're bedding the pads specifically to your rotors -- you're laying down a fine coating of pad material on the rotors and tempering the pads by heating them up. I do it a little differently depending on the pad -- race pads need to be heated up higher than street pads during bedding. Street pads: About five hard slow-downs (brake force just below where ABS would engage) from around 40-45 to about 5. Cool by driving normally for a bit (in an area where you don't have to stop). About five hard slow-downs (same technique) from 60-65. Repeat the cooling process. Be sure not to come to a complete stop or set the emergency brake until the pads and rotors have cooled to normal temperatures. Race pads: Add a third set of hard slow-downs from over 100. Bedding generally gives much better brake performance over the life of the pads. Thanks Tere thats quite easy to follow too The pads you keep mentioning, did you say they were for street purpose only or track? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tere Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 Hawk HPS are street pads, they can be used for an occasional week-end auto-cross, but I don't recommend them for more than a couple hot laps on a race course -- they will begin fading after that. For an everyday street pad, they're excellent. For heavy duty track use (run hot laps all day), the Hawk DTC 70/60 are great for the 350 (70s front and 60s rear). When paired with big brakes with cool running rotors such as StopTechs, your corner entry speeds start going up dramatically because you can significantly delay coming on the brakes and you slow a lot quicker while still having total vehicle control. The Hawk DTCs are a relativley new technology pad, generally replacing the HT-14/10 combination. DTC stands for Dynamic Torque Control because of the pad's modulation characteristics. A lot of race pads are very abrasive, but the DTCs seem to be fairly rotor friendly as race pads go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedrush Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 Hawk HPS are street pads, they can be used for an occasional week-end auto-cross, but I don't recommend them for more than a couple hot laps on a race course -- they will begin fading after that. For an everyday street pad, they're excellent. For heavy duty track use (run hot laps all day), the Hawk DTC 70/60 are great for the 350 (70s front and 60s rear). When paired with big brakes with cool running rotors such as StopTechs, your corner entry speeds start going up dramatically because you can significantly delay coming on the brakes and you slow a lot quicker while still having total vehicle control. The Hawk DTCs are a relativley new technology pad, generally replacing the HT-14/10 combination. DTC stands for Dynamic Torque Control because of the pad's modulation characteristics. A lot of race pads are very abrasive, but the DTCs seem to be fairly rotor friendly as race pads go. Will see if Big Phil can get Hawks HPS cheers Tere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tere Posted February 16, 2008 Share Posted February 16, 2008 You can also shoot these folks an e-mail. They have a huge inventory including hard to find fitments, and great prices. They're great folks to work with. I've bought about 10 axel sets of Hawks from them. Very customer service oriented and will answer any questions you have about brake pads. The also sell PFCs and Ferodos. All three are excellent pads. http://www.raceshopper.com/ PS: They're also a StopTech dealer, and sell all kinds of pads, fluids, and brake accessories. Be sure to go to the customer car section and catch the UK Mini doing some big air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfiecat Posted February 23, 2008 Author Share Posted February 23, 2008 Hi All, I have just received my Mintex Xtreme pads, front and rear for my Z. They come with anti vibration shims (as far as I can see.... a piece of double sided sticky tape!) If it does the job who cares! Anyway, I was wondering, do I need to use any copper grease on the back of the pad as I thought this would affect the sticky tape? Dont want to fit them and find them squeaking because I did something wrong????? Thanks in advance Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zedrush Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 You can also shoot these folks an e-mail. They have a huge inventory including hard to find fitments, and great prices. They're great folks to work with. I've bought about 10 axel sets of Hawks from them. Very customer service oriented and will answer any questions you have about brake pads. The also sell PFCs and Ferodos. All three are excellent pads. http://www.raceshopper.com/ PS: They're also a StopTech dealer, and sell all kinds of pads, fluids, and brake accessories. Be sure to go to the customer car section and catch the UK Mini doing some big air. Nice thanks Tere, been doing alot of research on stoptech and other brakes, and for the money and purpose I need, Im pretty sure I will be going with ESR's brake disks and calipers. For the money and quality its a deal I really cant miss The rear set will also be out this year too for those wanting complete set Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shire350Z Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 what prices are the front and rear sets from phil?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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