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3D Printed my own Velocity Stack Mod.


Lewis_UK

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So unfortunatly flyboy recently run out of Velocity Stack mods, and because I have an UpRev coming up soon I decided to take matters into my own hands.

 

At work we have a 3D Printer(MakerBot) and we use AutoCAD 2016.

 

So after a few hours of playing with CAD and getting used to I had come up with this:

 

f1f664dc095d5f8c0b30738055ac2ae7_preview_featured.jpg

 

So my first attempt. As you can see the curve came out straight. Trying to munipulate CAD to produce a curved angle cyclinder, to also print out as a "3D Watertight Object" was challenging.

 

This is Version 3: (Version 2 was very similar but have a thickness of 2mm which came out very flimsey, V3 is 4mm and solid)

 

b6b04ae42adf35533935d149f17c4ca4_preview_featured.jpg

 

Real life result (Has currently been installed for about a week now and still holding strong):

 

4bGatCr.jpg

 

A little bit rough here and there, but I think will a little bit of light sanding will be very smooth.

 

409frP9.jpg

Edited by Lewis_UK
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Lewis PM how much please

 

David

 

I'm deeply sorry Dave, but this was more for infomration and innovation.

 

I think I would get in trouble from work if I started to supply and distribute.

 

Or the other hand, I will provide a link to the ".stl" file create, and you can go to a company with their own 3D printer, send them the stl file and they will give you a quote on printing and delivery.(Which will probably be naff all)

 

Example: https://www.3dprint-...load-and-quote/

EDIT: The website above just had alook properly, only do minimum order of £40, which this created is no where near £40, I would say less then £10 created+postage you could get it done, so dont use the website above tbh, just an example I found, loads of sites out there.

 

Another Edit: https://www.digits2w...sls-containers/

If you check that website it seems the going rate is about £40 for the container they charge you to use.

 

Material used: ABS 3D Filament

Current dimensions of my mod: Width/Length Cylinder Diamiter - Top: 101.6mm - Bottom: 76.2mm | Height: 25.4mm | Curved Angle: 150 Degrees | Thickness: 4mm

Their Container Size: White Standard £40: 110mm x 90mm x 25mm

 

Link to the .stl file: https://www.thingive...m/thing:1770224

Richtrix is my work colleague(he let me use the 3D Printer to produce) so was uploaded on to he's thingi account when we printed.

Edited by Lewis_UK
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Good effort. Screw sanding it though, if you're using ABS, try acetone vapour smoothing. Just need a hot plate, some acetone (nail polish remover) and a glass beaker. Boil the acetone and the vapour cloud deposits and smooth out all the wrinkles.

 

Thanks I will try that.

 

How did you come up with the angle of the cylinder curve? Is this measured off the uprev stack or eyeballed?

 

You mean RevUp stack? This was all done by eye and basic measurements from the intake tube being 3" itself.

 

I searched the term "Velocity Stack" and found a picture on wikipedia:

 

354px-Velocity_stack_detail.svg.png

 

So tried to go for that sort of angle.

Edited by Lewis_UK
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I have a 3d printer and could knock these up, but its not my design so...

 

I give you full permission(and anyone else) to re-produce as you please. If that's what you mean.

 

EDIT: In fact, if this is something that gets going, I'm more than happy to make designs and convert to .stl for people to use if you give me dimensions/measurements and maybe rough picture etc.

Or a bigger/smaller Velocity Stack mouth. It will help build my experience on what can be achieved.

Edited by Lewis_UK
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its the forums design :D

Lol Davey, you sound like an employment contract "any work done on the forum, using the forums time or with the forum in mind is wholly owned by the forum" lol

 

Let me run one off now and see what the results look like. My printer is designed for PLA rather than ABS, so il be printing in that for now. Il let you know, it will be red, because that's what I have loaded!

 

I can print in ABS, but will need some time to test that out.

 

There's absolutely no reason this wouldn't perform as good as the metal one. The air box sees no significate heat so as long as its attached properly and the design is good, it should function the same, and last just as long.

 

Good effort. Screw sanding it though, if you're using ABS, try acetone vapour smoothing. Just need a hot plate, some acetone (nail polish remover) and a glass beaker. Boil the acetone and the vapour cloud deposits and smooth out all the wrinkles.

Shame this doesn't work for PLA, doesn't touch it at all, but if the part is thick enough you can flame polish PLA parts with a blowtorch, I have a kitchen one, like for making Crème Brule's with, works very well.

Edited by cs2000
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There is some chemical that will smooth PLA. Tetrahydrafluoron, but I can't seem to find anywhere to buy in the UK, Americans seem to be able to get it somehow. Either way, it seems a lot nastier than acetone, which is actually not too dangerous in the sense the body produces it naturally... still gives you a good headache though, ask me how I know!

 

PLA would probably soften too much in a warm engine bay on a hot day once the car is stopped.

 

Getting my geek on here I know!

 

Haven't used my 3d printer for the zed yet, but I did print a replacement seat lever for my POS zafira runabout! Very satisfying making something from nothing!

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There is some chemical that will smooth PLA. Tetrahydrafluoron, but I can't seem to find anywhere to buy in the UK, Americans seem to be able to get it somehow. Either way, it seems a lot nastier than acetone, which is actually not too dangerous in the sense the body produces it naturally... still gives you a good headache though, ask me how I know!

 

PLA would probably soften too much in a warm engine bay on a hot day once the car is stopped.

 

Getting my geek on here I know!

 

Haven't used my 3d printer for the zed yet, but I did print a replacement seat lever for my POS zafira runabout! Very satisfying making something from nothing!

Yeah I have read about Tetrahydrofuran (correct spelling, thanks google!), most of it makes it sound rather bad so il e avoiding it lol.

 

I have just about finished this print, 10 mins to go, looks to be feasible on my machine. I have ordered some ABS for further testing.

 

I'm going to chuck this in the engine bay for a week and see what happens to it, purely as a test, but I cant seem to find any hard numbers on when PLA will begin to deform.

 

Anyway, when it comes to printing these in ABS, il just acetone vapour polish them.

Edited by cs2000
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So the part came out of the printer amazingly well I think, Photos are below, this is with 0 finishing, printed on a medium speed. Excuse the blue tape stuck to the underside of the piece, it helps the part adhere to the print bed.

 

IMG_0041.jpg

IMG_0042.jpg

IMG_0043.jpg

IMG_0044.jpg

 

I have asked The OP (Lewis_UK) if he would mind me selling his design to you guys. Selling is an unfair term though as il be covering my costs, not looking to profit from this as its not my design. The costs involved are the ABS filament, my time, electricity, machine wear/repairs, acetone smoothing plus postage (which I actually need to look at).

 

Lewis had kindly agreed. So, I have some ABS on its way to me, should be here tomorrow, delivery gods willing. Give me a bif of time to test this material out, and figure out a postage cost, and il come back with a price, but I'm aiming at £10 including postage.

 

Lewis's original STL file will still be available, and when I come to make a post about this (after paying the requisite fees) I will make it clear its NOT my design, and offer the STL file for free, as it currently is, however most 3D printing companies have a min order of £40.00, so unless your have your own printer, this way will be cheaper.

 

Currently looking at supplying in silver, extra colours can be made if required, but there will be a charge for each brand new colour as I have to order in more rolls of filament.

 

Carbon fibre is also a possibility, it wont be the usual weave pattern that we all know, but I am able to print in carbon fire I think, that's a bit further off though ;)

 

Edited by cs2000
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Sweet :)

 

I'm test printing now, I'm amazed at how hot you need to print to properly print in ABS. With PLA, a nozzle temperature of 160 and a bed of 60 is plenty!

 

I bumped this up to 190 and 90, and the ABS prints, but the layers don't stick together (but it did adhere to the bed! so the bed temp is good) so I bumped it up to 220 and it stuck much better, but still not perfect, so now trying another at 230! lol hot hot hot!

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