350Butcher Posted May 15, 2019 Author Share Posted May 15, 2019 51 minutes ago, G1en@waxandshine said: Good info, seems strange how the recommended wheel width is the widest size in the “acceptable” range. Maybe the tread block works better with a bit of “stretch”? the sizes on offer are better for me with the 40 profile, it will raise the car back up little as it sits too low at the minute for normal use. To be fair, they are gonna be better than the AD08R as they are more a high performance road tyre than out and out track tyre. Looking forward to the review though as the nankang AR-1 i have are not at their best when cold or damp, the extreme wets are useless in the dry or warmth. In this country where we have 4 seasons in one day, these bad boys could be ideal, fingers crossed. If you look at the pic of my fronts the side wall is going in towards the wheel so I think its just the construction of the tyre is designed for being mounted onto a wider wheel. I probably would have gone with 245/255 40 sizes if I had of known this before hand. 40 profile works really well, car handles much better than it did with the 35 on 19" wheels before. There's better then there's 5seconds faster over a 2 1/2 minute lap and I suspect most of that time was made up over the first half of the lap as its more technical as opposed to the last have giving more time with hp. If your hill climb runs are 1min and you could get 2secs off using these tyres think you'll be more than happy I'm sure! Yes good 'ol England does serve up every weather within a day of occasion.......that what we call summer! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hansburger Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 Normally it's better to have a bit more side wall on your race car. A Z is quite heavy and needs the shoulders to get more grip on cornering. Take a look at the better full spec racecars. They all have slick tyres with sizes of 650 to 720mm high side walls. That's the problem I've got with my 20 inch wheels. 18's would be way better with my suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KuroKiddo Posted May 24, 2019 Share Posted May 24, 2019 On 19/09/2018 at 16:38, 350Butcher said: Really is a great circuit, the Coastal layout is the one to do too........the GP layout adds nothing that's special or fun while taking out the Corkscrew which is both!! I had 255/275 tyres before (albeit on 19@ wheels) and I much prefer the balance with the 265 rears through the really fast corners, keeps the car very neutral, through low speed tight corners the rear can struggle to keep up with the front though. Damper adjustment can dial that out but can also start to introduce understeer so I tend to leave it as it's how I like it to be honest. I'm sure when the dates are good for me to join you for a drive out you can jump in and have a sample and see what you think. Hard to say........as always though its the chassis and brakes that make the biggest difference's and result in faster lap times. The subframe bushes made big difference over stock mushy items as did the recent SPL bump steer correction tie rod ends I've been banging on about a bit. Ditching the huge, heavy dual mass flywheel helps with engine response quite a lot too. Obviously the big ticket parts like the MCS dampers are superb especially given the spring rates are double what my old Bilsteins were and it gives a more compliant ride when dialed down. The AP brakes are lot more powerful than the stock Brembo's, much more so than I thought they would be to be honest. Even installing bucket seats is a huge mod as you can feel so much more through your bum which enables you to drive and push everything harder. If its just engine mods.......hard to say as I did everything at once and gained around 30Hp in the process. The cams are definitely essential at changing the way it delivers the power now. It pulls so much harder from 3500-4000rpm all the way to 7500rpm rather than falling on its ar*e at 6800ish, but to maximise on the cams I installed the PPE manifolds and had the porting and profiling work done on the heads so I can't really say on one thing alone What was your best lap time for the Anglesey Coastal layout? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Butcher Posted May 24, 2019 Author Share Posted May 24, 2019 (edited) Well we got back late Tuesday from the trip over to Germany. Reminded me just how awesome the Nordschleife circuit is and how good Destination Nurburgring is at organising these events. A little extra treat was the opportunity to get on a bus that toured the circuit the evening before stopping at a few choice points to walk a little section and have an instructor talk you through some pointers which proved to be really useful the following day and also quite an eye opener to the gradients and cambers..........things that look flat honestly are far far from it! It even looked flat when I drove it the next day and I knew it wasn't. If you get the offer do it! The bus driver wasn't hanging around either.........fully loaded he had a drift on at one point.......priceless! On to the following day and the weather wasn't too great, cold, foggy and damp in the morning, drying out mid morning with foggy patches. I thought I'd get a few laps in to blow off the rust as I've not been for a couple of years but it starts to come back to you! Part of the DN package includes the offer of free tuition, I wasn't too sure of the format but as they have careers to worry about they just climb into anyone's car and start lapping! Instead they drop a radio in the car with you (which there is no chance of hearing when you get going!!), then jump in the new 4 door AMG GT and then you follow them out and they gauge your pace on 1 lap then step it up the following lap. The first words that crackled over the radio is "its getting wetter and wetter and more slippery!" just what you want to hear! Then 10mins later is the vid I've linked too. I certainly wasn't chasing lap times but it was unfortunate it was slow to get going as we let some quick guys through then caught some slower traffic (and recovery truck!) in the faster sections as its would've been a better reflection of the comfortable pace the cars capable of without that........but still a great opportunity to be out 1 to 1 with an AMG test driver and racer who does "1000 laps a year". Good to note we were on pretty much the correct line with only a few places having a wider line (to ride camber and avoid bumps) than I was on previously. His comments were good on returning which will do for me!! Sadly that was the last of the drier track and the rain came so I wasn't able to build on what I'd done in the morning!! Its rained to the point of standing water and rivers crossing the track! I kept lapping and it was good to be out on the greatest circuit of them all but obviously disappointing as I really wanted more dry time! The car has changed a lot since last visit and I was happy to feel it all come together there from the 3.9FD which I'd say is perfect for the 'ring to the suspension and brakes (although the rear oem discs are running too hot and causing the pads to glaze and, as you can hear, causing that horrendous screeching!!!) The engine delivered a welcome boost over stock easily pulling to over 140mph where it was asthmatic getting there before. So all in all really happy with the car and where its at! Edited May 30, 2019 by 350Butcher 7 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted May 24, 2019 Share Posted May 24, 2019 Mega!!!! Great update and slayed the Ring again. Bus tour sound boring but, beyond beneficial no doubt. You should be proud of what you've created. Sounds like you were out in some Nikki conditions on lapping THAT track in a powerful RWD, brave boy!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Butcher Posted May 28, 2019 Author Share Posted May 28, 2019 (edited) On 24/05/2019 at 22:04, davey_83 said: Sounds like you were out in some Niki conditions on lapping THAT track in a powerful RWD, brave boy!!! It was weird hearing the news he’d passed away while we were there as he’s very much someone you think about when at the ‘Ring. He was from the breed of real hardcore drivers!! Speaking to one of the instructors and he was saying Niki lost control on that bend at 200kmh and these days road cars are going through there in the same conditions faster than that.........crazy is the progress!! Not sure there was to much bravery on my part, kept it very safe and steady and when the rain came I know I’m not good enough to hunt out the grip and push so again safe and steady all the way! Prioritising having fun and getting home safe is the way to do it! Edited May 28, 2019 by 350Butcher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Butcher Posted May 30, 2019 Author Share Posted May 30, 2019 So following the screechy rear brakes situation I decided to pull them apart to take a look. Can see by the fact that the pink/red Brembo logo is brown/black now and the new bright yellow pads aren't anymore that things are getting bit toasty! The fix, ordered up some Stoptech grooved discs, these give somewhere for the gases to escape and gives a cutting element in operation to the pads to keep the faces fresh.........if I need to go further then I'll hole cut the back plates and run some ducting to the discs but hopefully just adding the grooved discs will get them sorted, performing even better..........and doing it all quietly!! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msitpro Posted May 31, 2019 Share Posted May 31, 2019 Not sure it's listed anywhere in your thread... Those are 'true' coil rear coilovers... Whatspring rates are the springs front and back and how does it ride on a very bumpy road? Pretty sure I made a massive mistake going for the track focused BCs last year @ 14k/12kg/mm rates I found someone online comparing suspension kits for the Z that reckoned that the change of position of the spring onto the turret rather than spring bucket increases the spring stiffness at the rear by about 2.25x ... It would explain the resonance through the cabin, very harsh ride, lack of grip and massive oversteer I have, being equivalent to 26k rear in the standard position I've got my rear tyres down at 23psi atm to cope a bit better until I get replacement springs to go in the coils. Going for 8k/6k swifts. I have whiteline adjustable ARBs and links front and back, full complement of Voodoo13 rear arms, poly bushes all round, Voodoo13 adjustable tie rod ends, Driftworks upper front arms etc... And same 40 profile tyres as you. So I suspect we're in a similar position as far as handling goes. (Or will be) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Butcher Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 13 hours ago, msitpro said: Not sure it's listed anywhere in your thread... Those are 'true' coil rear coilovers... Whatspring rates are the springs front and back and how does it ride on a very bumpy road? Pretty sure I made a massive mistake going for the track focused BCs last year @ 14k/12kg/mm rates I found someone online comparing suspension kits for the Z that reckoned that the change of position of the spring onto the turret rather than spring bucket increases the spring stiffness at the rear by about 2.25x ... It would explain the resonance through the cabin, very harsh ride, lack of grip and massive oversteer I have, being equivalent to 26k rear in the standard position I've got my rear tyres down at 23psi atm to cope a bit better until I get replacement springs to go in the coils. Going for 8k/6k swifts. I have whiteline adjustable ARBs and links front and back, full complement of Voodoo13 rear arms, poly bushes all round, Voodoo13 adjustable tie rod ends, Driftworks upper front arms etc... And same 40 profile tyres as you. So I suspect we're in a similar position as far as handling goes. (Or will be) Yes I converted the rear to coilovers on 300lbs (5.3kg) springs, the front uses 600lbs (10.7kg) springs. Over very bumpy roads its not great but copes well given the setup, over the usual road surfaces that you expect in the UK (so far from perfect) it rides fine no thumping and banging and plenty good enough to keep the tyres on the ground and be able to press on down B roads. Don't underestimate the difference the damper makes though, despite nearly doubling the spring rates of my old Bilstein B16 kit that I ran before, the MCS's offer better ride comfort, control, adjustment and ultimate performance and by some margin. Those 14/12kg spring rates are ridiculous! Unless you're running aero and slicks........so yes definitely not a well judged fast road/track setup. As you've said the cars so stiff you'll have no grip..........coupled with flat tyres it must be horrendous! What tyres do you run out of interest? Good that you've got all the adjustment in the chassis so can dial in some suitable geometry as there's so little from stock. The 8/6kg is much better but that's still a much softer front end than me with a stiffer rear end so it'll be a bias oversteer car still which is fine if that's the setup you like. So our cars will actually handle very differently I would say but how a car handles is very personal so there's no right answer to it all..........there's plenty of wrongs though so make sure you get someone good to set it all up as that will make all the difference to your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msitpro Posted June 1, 2019 Share Posted June 1, 2019 (edited) Yes, of course damper will make a difference. Damping/comfort is actually fine on any surface with these... So I wonder if there is any difference than just the spring between the BC models. I think it's just the hardness of the springs throwing me into the air all the time! I'm currently on Advan V105 245/40/18 front on 9.5J and Bridgestone RE050 275/40/18 dried up heaps of poo on 10.5J on the back... I'll wait to see what grip is like after the new springs and change tyres after if needed. Plenty of tread on the Bridgestones but think they've gone off. Bought second hand last year just to get a setup that didn't trigger TC at 15mph+ like the old 245/45/18 & 275/35/18 combo the past owner of these wheels had! To be honest I like liveliness in the rear end to allow you to almost point the chassis in the right direction, by shifting the balance through braking and throttle.... But it's silly atm I can always adjust toe, camber, ARBs etc to dial out or dial in any over or understeer. I thought I'd go 8K to make a big difference from 14K fronts because it's the front that currently throws itself all over the place over bumpy roads (tyres @ 26psi front atm). I didn't think 10K would be low enough to make a big enough difference. Edited June 1, 2019 by msitpro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Butcher Posted June 1, 2019 Author Share Posted June 1, 2019 (edited) It can be a lack of rebound damping that makes shocks like pogo sticks and throws you up in the air, are the BC's adjustable separate for rebound/compression? That's one main reason I wanted separate this time round as sometimes I had to wind up the adjustment to get the rebound but on road you don't always want the compression too! Sounds like there's plenty of room for improvement there then, ultimately if the tyres are the bit touching the ground so if they're old and gone off it won't matter what you do with the sus you'll have no grip.........just get rid and put on some new tyres. I'm the same, although I setup the chassis to be very neutral/slightly oversteer bias for the smallest rotation and then I'm the one who decides about when to get more sideways or not and not the car. The damper adjustment is great too so can really change the balance and attitude of the car easily at track. Also means its pretty safe when tracks wet too. Any ideas what geometry settings you have or are aiming for when setup? Dropping as much as you are will definitely make a difference and should hopefully give the car some manners on the road too and you can start putting some air back in your tyres!!!.........good luck with it all! Edited June 1, 2019 by 350Butcher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GodISmE Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 (edited) I I'm on 20/9kg and it still feels too soft at the front! Brian Lock is on 26/11 in his 370z race car. How's your engine build by the way? I finally got my hands on used PPE headers and I will be doing a custom CAI soon. Hoping to hit well over 400hp with those! Edited July 31, 2019 by GodISmE 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 Please post up a Dyno Godisme, I've watched a few of your vids on yt as I was also following your build thread on the US forum too I wanted to ask you a few things too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msitpro Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 On 31/07/2019 at 20:26, GodISmE said: I I'm on 20/9kg and it still feels too soft at the front! Brian Lock is on 26/11 in his 370z race car. Track duty only though right?! Good news on my spring changes. The road handling is perfection for daily use. Even better, the damping adjustments on the shocks now make huge differences. Running softest on the road but can be stiffened up massively. 8k front, 6k rear 326 Power/Swift Mazibane springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Butcher Posted October 20, 2019 Author Share Posted October 20, 2019 On 31/07/2019 at 20:26, GodISmE said: I I'm on 20/9kg and it still feels too soft at the front! Brian Lock is on 26/11 in his 370z race car. How's your engine build by the way? I finally got my hands on used PPE headers and I will be doing a custom CAI soon. Hoping to hit well over 400hp with those! That is some serious spring rates!! I'd expect it to be an understeering dog with the front that hard. Not sure how much you can take from Valkyrie's 370z racer set up as its a 1200kg, slick shod monster and a mile away from modified road cars but keep us updated with where you go with your setup and how it effects handling as its good info. Engine build started today so updates will be coming soon! Don't think I'll be troubling 400hp on dyno dynamics dyno but still got 100hp/ltr as very realistic figures for mine. Again keep us updated with your progress with your engine work especially with intake work as it'll be good to see what you get from the custom intake you're looking at doing.......what power are you at currently? On 09/08/2019 at 22:54, msitpro said: Good news on my spring changes. The road handling is perfection for daily use. Even better, the damping adjustments on the shocks now make huge differences. Running softest on the road but can be stiffened up massively. 8k front, 6k rear 326 Power/Swift Mazibane springs. That is good news! Always good when you find a setup that works well.......and a bonus as you're happy to tune it with dampers when needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Butcher Posted October 20, 2019 Author Share Posted October 20, 2019 Nothing has really changed much this year other than been looking into a brake issue I've had for a while. I first noticed the issue on oem Brembo's as the front passenger Caliper was darkening up more than the drivers side, suggesting it was running hot (I assumed it may be dragging a little when hot etc) I checked a few obvious things but never got to the bottom of it. When I installed my AP's they caliper on the passenger side ran a little hotter still so obviously not caliper and system related! As the AP's allowed for harder, later breaking this highlighted an issue with the rear drivers side brake overheating! Given that the brake circuits are split on the diagonals I thought I have a test with the infrared thermometer.........this confirmed rear axle running very hot with a bias on the primary circuit (front passenger/rear drivers). I did a bit of searching a researching and found that (and I kind of always knew it wasn't a 100% fix) that removing the VDC fuse was running the VDC actuator in an "open" situation meaning among all other systems being inactive the EBD wasn't doing its thing either and the system runs a rear bias and primary circuit bias also! Luckily for me a motorsport company in the US has the solution! A VDC delete block.....this allows the removal of the VDC/TCS/ABS actuator and mounts a block on the same bracket and all oem brake hoses connect straight to it with the internal plumbing in the block converting the primary circuit to operate the fronts and secondary circuit operating the rears via a proportioning valve. The road test felt good and on Oct 10th I took the car to Silverstone GP circuit and the pedal feel is totally consistent and firm and the brake performance much better. Temps confirmed that across both axles now things were equal.......overall the rears still overheat but this is because they require cooling ducting as the fronts have as opposed to system imbalance as before. I know this mod wont be for everyone as it permanently removes ABS, TCS, EBD and stability systems but I'm happy to not have these interfering and again makes the car more of a raw and pleasurable drive as a result. Before: After: All still packaged under oem brake cover: 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Butcher Posted October 20, 2019 Author Share Posted October 20, 2019 (edited) Few pics from Silverstone GP with @davey_83 on board! Vid: Edited October 20, 2019 by 350Butcher 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 (edited) WOW that picture second from bottom is unreal!!! Grip was next level!! felt like a quattro, might lap times too for the full GP circuit. Had a fab day, tiny bit of rain after lunch could have made it eventful but luckily all was well. Edited October 20, 2019 by davey_83 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissanman312 Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 Going realy well there mate Car looks fantastic aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Butcher Posted October 21, 2019 Author Share Posted October 21, 2019 23 hours ago, davey_83 said: WOW that picture second from bottom is unreal!!! Grip was next level!! Had a fab day Yeah that is a really cool pic, who knows what they climbed up to take those ones!! Those AO52’s are unreal!! So much grip!! When 350hp can’t spin them you know they’re sticky. Glad you enjoyed it mate, that’s what it’s all about. 22 hours ago, nissanman312 said: Going realy well there mate Car looks fantastic aswell Cheers! It was the only session I filmed sadly and we made more progress with setup through the day and definitely braked lot later as confidence grew with the new brake setup and carried more corner speed here and there. Really like pics of the car on track, especially the pics showing load through the car! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GodISmE Posted October 22, 2019 Share Posted October 22, 2019 (edited) I'm thinking about installing that VDC delete box. Does it really remove ABS entiely? I've tried to remove it once and I was locking the tires a lot! Can you adjust front to rear braking bias with this thing? My front calipers keep overheating and the rear pads last for a ling time - even 2-3 front brake pad changes, so there is something wrong. Edited October 23, 2019 by GodISmE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoofer Posted October 22, 2019 Share Posted October 22, 2019 Great photos. Would you recommend Javelin? I used to swear by bookatrack but the last day I was at with them it was a swarm of race cars in the 500-800kg range with only one road car. I was in a caterham myself, but I wouldn't have wanted to be in a Z that day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark@Abbey m/s Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 On 20/10/2019 at 19:55, 350Butcher said: Nothing has really changed much this year other than been looking into a brake issue I've had for a while. I first noticed the issue on oem Brembo's as the front passenger Caliper was darkening up more than the drivers side, suggesting it was running hot (I assumed it may be dragging a little when hot etc) I checked a few obvious things but never got to the bottom of it. When I installed my AP's they caliper on the passenger side ran a little hotter still so obviously not caliper and system related! As the AP's allowed for harder, later breaking this highlighted an issue with the rear drivers side brake overheating! Given that the brake circuits are split on the diagonals I thought I have a test with the infrared thermometer.........this confirmed rear axle running very hot with a bias on the primary circuit (front passenger/rear drivers). I did a bit of searching a researching and found that (and I kind of always knew it wasn't a 100% fix) that removing the VDC fuse was running the VDC actuator in an "open" situation meaning among all other systems being inactive the EBD wasn't doing its thing either and the system runs a rear bias and primary circuit bias also! Luckily for me a motorsport company in the US has the solution! A VDC delete block.....this allows the removal of the VDC/TCS/ABS actuator and mounts a block on the same bracket and all oem brake hoses connect straight to it with the internal plumbing in the block converting the primary circuit to operate the fronts and secondary circuit operating the rears via a proportioning valve. The road test felt good and on Oct 10th I took the car to Silverstone GP circuit and the pedal feel is totally consistent and firm and the brake performance much better. Temps confirmed that across both axles now things were equal.......overall the rears still overheat but this is because they require cooling ducting as the fronts have as opposed to system imbalance as before. I know this mod wont be for everyone as it permanently removes ABS, TCS, EBD and stability systems but I'm happy to not have these interfering and again makes the car more of a raw and pleasurable drive as a result. Before: After: All still packaged under oem brake cover: Interesting find on the ABS delete unit. re the heat difference across the axles I thought you ran without the ABS/VDC connected (fuse pulled) as seeing a difference in temps cross the calipers says that the VDC is still working. The rear biased valve , is this an extra drilling (line) in the new block assembly to allow a single line to control the feed to the 2 rear brake line? Found the website and the tech drawings , good piece of kit , good find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Butcher Posted October 23, 2019 Author Share Posted October 23, 2019 On 22/10/2019 at 15:49, GodISmE said: I'm thinking about installing that VDC delete box. Does it really remove ABS entiely? I've tried to remove it once and I was locking the tires a lot! Can you adjust front to rear braking bias with this thing? My front calipers keep overheating and the rear pads last for a ling time - even 2-3 front brake pad changes, do there is something wrong. It definitely removes the abs (and every other device) as you remove the actuator/pump to install the delete block. There is therefore nothing between the master cylinder and the calipers once this is installed. The pedal stays firm and consistent on track where I've found it feels vague sometimes randomly when I've just been running with the fuse out, but all that was gone with this installed. Couldn't comment on your locking up as depends a lot on your pad choice (some have such an aggressive bite that they snatch, I prefer endurance type pads as they have a much more progressive bite such as Pagid RSL29 or PFC 08 or 12's) and obviously which tyres you're on. I used to run with fairly stock pads in the rear but I think they were just overheating fading to nothing and lasting forever I only noticed the issue with rears running way too hot after I switched to Pagid RSL29's all round. You can't change the braking bias as you'd have to go on a duel master cylinder/pedal box setup with bias bar for that, this uses a proportioning valve to the rears. All info here: (manuals to download beneath the text) https://www.nextrevmotorsports.com/350Z-ABS-VDC-Delete-Block-p/nr100-ab001.htm Info from Tilton on valve: (again click on the downloads and then instrucitions) https://tiltonracing.com/product/screw-type-proportioning-valve/ 9 hours ago, Mark@Abbey m/s said: Interesting find on the ABS delete unit. re the heat difference across the axles I thought you ran without the ABS/VDC connected (fuse pulled) as seeing a difference in temps cross the calipers says that the VDC is still working. The rear biased valve , is this an extra drilling (line) in the new block assembly to allow a single line to control the feed to the 2 rear brake line? Found the website and the tech drawings , good piece of kit , good find. Yeah I was searching for basically this exact thing as didn't want to do too much/any cutting and chopping and found it! That never happens.....few emails to the owner of the firm who was a top guy and ordered it up............and very happy with the results. I've always pulled the fuse when on track (and driving most of the time to be honest) its the primary circuit that operates the passenger front/driver side left that runs hotter........on my last track day my uncle in his 370z joined me and his car with everything left alone was running slightly hotter on the primary circuit (not so much though so I guess the EBD works to even it all out). I think it just has a slight bias to the primary over the secondary, as I've uprated the brakes and started going quicker and temps go up I suppose it just highlights the issue more and more..........I'll be doing something with that nasty heat shield that wraps round the rear discs and try and get some ducting to them along the lines of how the front is. This is the setup on the oem bracket, all hoses lined up perfect.......as you can see I didn't opt to have the valve inside to change on the move as it would just create more drilling and cutting which I wasn't interested in (don't know why, car's pretty far down the road now but still think about being able to return to stock if I ever sell up!............low miles and one careful owner!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Butcher Posted October 23, 2019 Author Share Posted October 23, 2019 On 22/10/2019 at 16:19, stoofer said: Great photos. Would you recommend Javelin? I used to swear by bookatrack but the last day I was at with them it was a swarm of race cars in the 500-800kg range with only one road car. I was in a caterham myself, but I wouldn't have wanted to be in a Z that day. Thanks! Yeah they're OK.....had mixed days with them to be honest......sadly as they are very reasonably priced on the whole and it can attract the d**khead crowd with horrendous attitudes and driving standards. The more expensive days like I've just done at Silverstone are night and day by comparison so you need to pick and choose. The best thing about Javelin is purely the amount of dates they offer!!! Circuit days are the very best but Chris has moved more into the driving tours these days which is a shame (for us, very good for him I'm sure) and as you say Bookatrack being an ex-Caterham dealer do seem to have a large amount in attendance but I've had almost all good days with them but they are pricey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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