KUGT4 Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 tried a couple of times but will have to override booster safety to start next time worried about the depressed clutch (cant disengage) anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 Why can't the clutch be depressed? you could always complete the switch circuit with a piece of wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KUGT4 Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 the clutch is depressed - it won't come back up and the battery is dead jumping makes it lurch slightly forward when boosted - but won't start still suspect the booster needs override switched on for extra grunt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 Why would you want to start it with a clutch that doesn't work...it wont move? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KUGT4 Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 the clutch works fine - the battery died and clutch depressed assume its something to do with the battery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 Clutch pedal operation is mechanical no...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 Yep as above, totally unrelated, the clutch mechanism will operate whether engine runs or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KUGT4 Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 ok, parked on hill (pointing downwards), reverse gear selected and engaged, clutch pedal fully depressed (wont' come backup up) currently unable to start car due to battery flat (separate issue) BUT clutch won't release the currently reverse gear selection as it's already depressed it must be somehow related to the battery issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny B Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 I'm not 100% sure I've understood what you're saying. But if you think there's a problem with the clutch, why not take it out of gear before trying to start it? If it's on a hill and your worried the handbrake won't hold it, just chock something in front of one of the wheels. You should be able to start it in neutral at least without it lurching about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy_Baton Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 I think he's saying he can't get it out of gear as the clutch pedal is fully down and won't come back up, but the clutch itself is still fully engaged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grundy Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 Am I reading this right? Foot has pushed clutch all the way down, put gear in reverse, and the pedal HASN'T come back up? And this is Battery related? WUT? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 ok, parked on hill (pointing downwards), reverse gear selected and engaged, clutch pedal fully depressed (wont' come backup up) currently unable to start car due to battery flat (separate issue) BUT clutch won't release the currently reverse gear selection as it's already depressed it must be somehow related to the battery issue Can you explain just why you think its battery related, as you have been told repeatedly, the clutch has no physical connection to any electronics bar the start switch, which is a safety lock out to prevent the car being started in gear and jumping forward. The clutch is purely operated via hydraulics, so it sound like you have ether a faulty master cylinder at the pedal, or a faulty slave cylinder at the clutch, or the operating arm is broken, or the clutch disengagement bearing has collapsed, it is not i repeat not an electrical issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KUGT4 Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 Is there another reason why I can't select gear and the clutch will not raise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 Yes, the clutch and/or gearbox is shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sargara Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 Isnt it a common issue on 350z when the clutch pedal doesnt return, slave cylinder or the likes? Could that be what the OP is experiencing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KUGT4 Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 only other occasion when the clutch pedal hasn't returned is when the clutch fluid boiled there has been no problems with gear/clutch and serviced 2 weeks ago problem only occurred today when parked on hill as usual (reverse selected and powered down) - at which point clutch was up the clutch appears to have dropped whilst parked and within about an hour of parking obviously since unable to start car at moment due to flat battery - assumed they were related Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny B Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 I think he's saying he can't get it out of gear as the clutch pedal is fully down and won't come back up, but the clutch itself is still fully engaged. But without the engine running he should still be able to knock it out of gear whether or not the clutch is up, down or anywhere in between. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 You have two separate issues: Battery/Starter issue Clutch/gearbox issue. There is a spring on the clutch pedal box which helps return the pedal to the up position. To get the pedal back up simply lift the pedal with your hand or foot. However you will still have to address the clutch and starting issues. Have you checked the clutch fluid ? Have you tried applying a bit more pressure to the gear stick to get it out of gear ? If you get it out of gear and with a fully charged battery, press the clutch down and it should start, however you will not be able to select gears until you fix the clutch hydraulic issue, which will probably be the slave cyl. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Kay Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 I suspect the reason it wont come out of gear is because you're on a hill. if you can, push the car backwards an inch and I bet it pops straight out of gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KUGT4 Posted July 10, 2016 Author Share Posted July 10, 2016 (edited) You have two separate issues: Battery/Starter issue Clutch/gearbox issue. There is a spring on the clutch pedal box which helps return the pedal to the up position. To get the pedal back up simply lift the pedal with your hand or foot. However you will still have to address the clutch and starting issues. Have you checked the clutch fluid ? Have you tried applying a bit more pressure to the gear stick to get it out of gear ? If you get it out of gear and with a fully charged battery, press the clutch down and it should start, however you will not be able to select gears until you fix the clutch hydraulic issue, which will probably be the slave cyl. cheers zmanalex the clutch is now working again ie there is resistance, it springs back - as recommended, i physically lifted the clutch pedal and it locked into the up position (although still offering no resistance at this point) - left it a while and the resistance came back - i can now select the gears when depressing the clutch (while the engine is off) the battery is still flat and awaiting a booster with a bit more grunt to get me down to the garage where a new OEM battery awaits BTW whats the recommended minimum amp required to jump start? Edited July 10, 2016 by KUGT4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KUGT4 Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 (edited) FYI - 400 amp booster appears to do the job Edited July 11, 2016 by KUGT4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KUGT4 Posted July 12, 2016 Author Share Posted July 12, 2016 scrub that - 400a didn't work 2ns time - must have been luck first time round fyi breakdown guys ran around with power start 700 new oem battery now fitted... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy_Baton Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 I carry one of these in the glove box £85 http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/93077-super-powerpack-palm-size-jump-pack-that-start-v8/ Jump started my car fine at the weekend. I top it back up to 100% every 3 months but it only drops to 90% during that time and apparently will still work at 60%. You can also use it to charge smart phones etc. when away from the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KUGT4 Posted July 13, 2016 Author Share Posted July 13, 2016 (edited) good luck with that - bought 3 boosters ranging from 400A to a supposed 1000A - all crap - wouldn't crank the Z only thing that would crank a totally dead Z was the 'power start 700' (PS-700) Edited July 13, 2016 by KUGT4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exec Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 Glad it's sorted, isn't this forum great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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