checkers88 Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 I've noticed recently my car has some worrying handling characteristics, made worse by cold or wet weather. When I'm going around a corner, even a slight one (not fast or even on the power) the car seems to spaz out and lose grip. The little traction light flashes up and I can feel the car braking on its own to correct the slide. It's not sliding like drifting but more the feel of it going light as if you just went over ice. Every time it happens that TC light is blinking away on the dash. It just feels unsafe to drive now, I can't over take on anything but a perfectly smooth straight road without the risk of it cutting the brakes in mid overtake. If I turn of TC then it just loses grip all together. It has 30mm lowering springs, 30mm spacers and 2 new continental sport contact 5 tyres on the rear, the camber is a little offset due to the springs but I'll have it aligned next week. It's only started doing it since I fitted the springs, the spacers have been on a while and the tyres (which are 3 days old) haven't helped as I thought it may be down to low tread. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planetsurfer2 Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 Have you got the large wheels at the back and the smaller at the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TT350 Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 You probably need to get your geometry set up after the drop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
checkers88 Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 Have you got the large wheels at the back and the smaller at the front? Standard Ray's 18s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
checkers88 Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 You probably need to get your geometry set up after the drop. That's the next step, I've read on here that it can also be caused if the shocks are on the way out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TT350 Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 You probably need to get your geometry set up after the drop. That's the next step, I've read on here that it can also be caused if the shocks are on the way out. Did you drop it just with springs? No matching dampers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planetsurfer2 Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 Have you got the large wheels at the back and the smaller at the front? Standard Ray's 18s What I meant was, have you check the wheels are on the right corners. I managed to mix the wheels when I was changing from Winter to Summer tyres. The car would launch onto the other side of the road. Very disconcerting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
checkers88 Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 You probably need to get your geometry set up after the drop. That's the next step, I've read on here that it can also be caused if the shocks are on the way out. Did you drop it just with springs? No matching dampers? Just springs. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TT350 Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 You probably need to get your geometry set up after the drop. That's the next step, I've read on here that it can also be caused if the shocks are on the way out. Did you drop it just with springs? No matching dampers? Just springs. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Need matching dampers really. Stiffer lower springs will throw the stock dampers off. Matching spring rates and bound and rebound is important. It's like when I was younger and we'd slam our novas on springs. They handled terrible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 A proper full geometry will sort your issues. You may have to install geometry corrections arms to get the settings back to within tolerances. Don't waste your energy looking for other issues as this will be your problem, unless you have fooked up with the spring/wheel install. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TT350 Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 Although..... http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/make-driving-fun/five-common-myths-about-using-lowering-springs-to-lower-your-car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebized Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 You mention new rear tyres, but what are the front tyres like? As others are saying the geo check should help but just make sure the tyre pressures are correct (35psi cold is the book recommendation) given you mention the issue is worse when the tyres are cold/conditions are wet. Worth checking as that cost you nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyleR Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 Sounds like wrong tyre sizes to me. Lowering springs without replacing the dampers is fine, half this forum including myself have done it with little to no issues except the rear camber being out of specs, which is easily corrected, but that won't cause major issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbiscuit Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 it will be the Geometry, if you dismantle the suspension and change the springs you need to have the geo checked to make sure you didn't knock something out when it was apart. most places will check for free. or go for a proper 4 wheel laser alignment £70 - £100 depending on who and where does it. but the difference can be huge. as long as tyres match across the axle they don't have to match front and back, but running the same tyre and tread depth can improve handling it won't be the route cause unless your fronts are a set of nankangs. also new tyres take 300 -500 miles to lose the release agent from the tyre moulds. some tyres are worse than others for it and it can make it feel very skittish until the tyres bed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebized Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 it will be the Geometry, if you dismantle the suspension and change the springs you need to have the geo checked to make sure you didn't knock something out when it was apart. most places will check for free. or go for a proper 4 wheel laser alignment £70 - £100 depending on who and where does it. but the difference can be huge. as long as tyres match across the axle they don't have to match front and back, but running the same tyre and tread depth can improve handling it won't be the route cause unless your fronts are a set of nankangs. also new tyres take 300 -500 miles to lose the release agent from the tyre moulds. some tyres are worse than others for it and it can make it feel very skittish until the tyres bed in. Forgot about that - good point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TT350 Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 I got new MPSS same time as I had the Z boosted. Floored it on the first stretch after picking it up and tyres felt fine. Eek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
checkers88 Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 it will be the Geometry, if you dismantle the suspension and change the springs you need to have the geo checked to make sure you didn't knock something out when it was apart. most places will check for free. or go for a proper 4 wheel laser alignment £70 - £100 depending on who and where does it. but the difference can be huge. as long as tyres match across the axle they don't have to match front and back, but running the same tyre and tread depth can improve handling it won't be the route cause unless your fronts are a set of nankangs. also new tyres take 300 -500 miles to lose the release agent from the tyre moulds. some tyres are worse than others for it and it can make it feel very skittish until the tyres bed in. Just for the record the front tyres are Kumhos, tread is around 3-4mm. The rears are brand new Continental Sport Contact 5s. Besides the springs the only other changes are the 30mm wheel spacers, it's got 2 new front banana arms (control arms) and a full set of brembo pads. Perhaps while it was all in pieces it's just knocked the geometry out. It's my next port of call anyway as the rear camber is negative, the front is normal but the tracking is slightly out. I've lowered cars and stuff before and never had one that felt like this afterwards, unless it's just really really out. Guess I'll find out next week. I'll post the results. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebized Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 I would strongly suggest you consider new front tyres given you have brand new rears with more than double the trad depth, in addition to getting you geo sorted given the changes you have had done. For me, tyres getting down to 3mm are as low as I would want to go for wet conditions.......and the Zed has always been known to be sensitive to mismatched tyre wear, irrespective of different makes between front and rear axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 (edited) It's gonna be the alignment only other thing I would suggest is checking the drop links I have seen them break on lowered cars and that effectively disconnects the ARB - but other than physical damage the first stop is a Hunter system Edited May 1, 2016 by Keyser 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.