Vlad Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 I have a little, but very annoying, oil leak. I suspect 2 location: bad seal on oil sump plug or bad seal between my oil pan and AEM spacer. Done oil change and new filter on saturday, used new washer for the sump plug... but oil leak is still there, which points me more towards bad seal between oil pan and the spacer. On my net day off I'll drain all oil again and will remove oil pan and spacer and apply new sealant. Here's the question... can anyone recommend a sealant? Or any black RTV will do? Don't really want to do it ever again as doing oil change every week might get expensive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richf Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Permatex - Genuine stuff http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-999MP-1217FPP-Permatex-Ultra-Grey-RTV-Silicone-Liquid-Gasket-Maker_p_16487.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Any Grey RTV will do the job for the sump pan. However Permatex is very good and is what I use on builds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Awesome, thanks a lot guys! Will order it straight away! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 (edited) P.s. How do you guys use it? As read about it and some people say apply some on the pan and leave it for a bit to slightly set and then bolt it to the car or apply and bolt it on straigh away? Also some people just make an even bead of it around whole pan and some do same and then smear it around a bit with a finger? Last time I did it, I used black RTV, applied even bead all around, left it for 20mins and then bolted it on...obviously that didn't work perfectly Edited April 25, 2016 by Vlad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted April 26, 2016 Author Share Posted April 26, 2016 (edited) Anyone? Alex and Rich, may be you know answer to this one as well? http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/107876-oil-pick-up-bolts-size/#entry1615527 Edited April 26, 2016 by Vlad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumping350 Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 When I did mine not long ago I put an even bead around and didnt smear it and made sure I went all around bolt holes then put it on straight away as didnt trust it My mate was there to help to make sure sump went on as even as possible as we didnt want to loose any sealant by sump hitting or brushing something else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 The recommended way and the procedure that I follow is to apply a 5mm bead of RTV all the way round the centre of the sump pan mating surface. Do not smear with your finger. The pan should be refitted immediately, bolts torqued up and then left to cure for at least 30 minutes before oil is added. Hope that this helps. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richf Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 Make sure the surface is flat also , really easy to bend the sump removing it and if its not flat it wont seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 The recommended way and the procedure that I follow is to apply a 5mm bead of RTV all the way round the centre of the sump pan mating surface. Do not smear with your finger. The pan should be refitted immediately, bolts torqued up and then left to cure for at least 30 minutes before oil is added. Hope that this helps. Alex. Thanks Alex, much appreciated. And I was gonna leave it overnight without oil, to make sure whole thing is set haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 Make sure the surface is flat also , really easy to bend the sump removing it and if its not flat it wont seal Cheers Rich. I did read about it, that it's easy to bend sump. So once I remove it and clean it, I'll check it against flat surface. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 When I did mine not long ago I put an even bead around and didnt smear it and made sure I went all around bolt holes then put it on straight away as didnt trust it My mate was there to help to make sure sump went on as even as possible as we didnt want to loose any sealant by sump hitting or brushing something else Yea, that's the tricky bit to put it up withou smearing. Especially with spacer as that makes 2 movable parts. I might use couple of studs to keep it aligned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exec Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 This forum is great, I'm replacing my oil pan also, it's a bit corroded and looking porous.. It's only a matter of time. Iv got a new oem pan and the car is due an oil change anyhow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumping350 Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 When I did mine not long ago I put an even bead around and didnt smear it and made sure I went all around bolt holes then put it on straight away as didnt trust it My mate was there to help to make sure sump went on as even as possible as we didnt want to loose any sealant by sump hitting or brushing something else Yea, that's the tricky bit to put it up withou smearing. Especially with spacer as that makes 2 movable parts. I might use couple of studs to keep it aligned I took a razor blade to bottom of block to make sure all the original gunk and stuff had gone to get a flat surface We got two studs in each end asap, as soon as we mated with bottom of block you could tell it wanted to slide to the left or right, and as Alex said went round a torqued straight away after hand fitting all bolts,I left mine without oil in and to dry for 3 weeks though just to be sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 When I did mine not long ago I put an even bead around and didnt smear it and made sure I went all around bolt holes then put it on straight away as didnt trust it My mate was there to help to make sure sump went on as even as possible as we didnt want to loose any sealant by sump hitting or brushing something else Yea, that's the tricky bit to put it up withou smearing. Especially with spacer as that makes 2 movable parts. I might use couple of studs to keep it aligned I took a razor blade to bottom of block to make sure all the original gunk and stuff had gone to get a flat surface We got two studs in each end asap, as soon as we mated with bottom of block you could tell it wanted to slide to the left or right, and as Alex said went round a torqued straight away after hand fitting all bolts,I left mine without oil in and to dry for 3 weeks though just to be sure There's always one who takes it too far :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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