Smc1992 Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Hi all I put a new head unit in my car last Thursday afternoon and then on Friday when I start the car the battery light flickers very dimly and the voltmeter is only at 12, so I turned the car off and on again and then it was fine with the voltmeter up at 14 with no flickering of the battery light. It has done this all weekend now, everytime I start the car the battery light flickers and the voltmeter shows 12v, so I just drive it for a bit then eventually it goes to 14v and the light disappears. Is it just a coincidence of it happening around the time of fitting my head unit or is it telling me it is time for a new battery? If it was my alternator, the light would be on all the time wouldnt it? Thanks in advance for any advice Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jumzo Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Would be coincidental but could just be the belt needs tightening/replacing? Cant see how fitting a stereo would cause it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smc1992 Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Ive had a new idler pulley and belt fit about a month ago, so would have thought they would be tight? Could the radio be putting extra strain on the alternator? I find it weird how the battery light eventually goes out and the voltmeter then goes back up to 13/14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZEUS Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Get the battery tested to see if it's any good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smc1992 Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Well I put my multimeter across the terminals and I got 13v. I assumed that was because the car had just been running. Isn't that what a garage would do to test it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZEUS Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 (edited) I've had totally knackered batteries that show 13v just after charging, Halfords do a free battery health check that checks cranking and charging capabilities etc. Edit: just don't buy a Halfords battery if yours is duff, they are crap. Edited April 25, 2016 by ZEUS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smc1992 Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Haha I wont buy from them but Ill go down tomorrow after work and have them check it for free cheers! I hope its only a battery! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZEUS Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Only other thing I can think of, are you sure everything on the stereo is wired correctly, there's no bare wires touching anything and all earths are bolted up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 I've had totally knackered batteries that show 13v just after charging, Halfords do a free battery health check that checks cranking and charging capabilities etc. Edit: just don't buy a Halfords battery if yours is duff, they are crap. What makes them crap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZEUS Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 I've had totally knackered batteries that show 13v just after charging, Halfords do a free battery health check that checks cranking and charging capabilities etc. Edit: just don't buy a Halfords battery if yours is duff, they are crap. What makes them crap? I've had several for several different vehicles in the past and they never last more than a few months before they are running flat. I know they come with a guarantee but I can't be doing with the hassle of taking it back to be replaced constantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smc1992 Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Well I am currently broken down at the side of the road awaiting the recovery truck. I was driving home from 5 a-side and it just went dead, the starter motor is clicking but engine wont turn. Im presuming this is the alternator? Is the alternator just 3 bolts to take off and then new one in? Or do I need to start removing loads of other parts? Ive not looked properly and its dark now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Husky Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 I assume your battery is dead then if the alternator wasn't charging it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 Fully working pre owned alternators are in stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help further. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smc1992 Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 Fully working pre owned alternators are in stock and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help further. Alex. I couldnt wait Alex so I managed to source a new one for the same day, thanks though 👠Changing the alternator wasnt too bad of a job. I had to remove radiator fan to remove the alternator which meant draining the coolant and taking the top hose off. I wasnt looking forward to refilling the system but that wasnt too bad either. Ive had a difficult experience trying to remove all air from a coolant system on a past car but this wasnt too bad, all hoses get hot, hot air is blowing inside the car and car isnt overheating so looks good! The 120amp fuse had blown on my battery too so had to order a new one from nissan for £65. Really pricey but you can't buy the fuse itself and had to buy the whole holder as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 Good to hear that you are all sorted although considerably poorer. Alex,. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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