Door Switch Panels

[SiriusProjects]

Hi All,

 

I had a go at respraying my door switch panels a short time ago and being a complete beginner at these things, it didn't go well. For one, I don't know what happened with the lacquer, but I let it dry for 24 hours, but when I picked up one of the panels, my fingerprints showed up in the lacquer. Plus a day or two later before fitting, I noticed like a bubbling effect along one edge. Fortunately, I have another set of door switch panels so am going to give it another go. But before I do, can anyone offer any helpful tips and advice so that I can maybe get a half decent job done this time?

 

Thanks.

[GMballistic]

I would have thought 24 hours should have been long enough for the lacquer to harden. Was it from a rattle can or did you use a 2 pack mix in a spray gun?

I'm guessing though it was from a rattle can as you say you are a beginner. The only thing I can think of with that is that maybe the conditions you left it in to dry weren't right for it to harden correctly. E.g. Too moist/damp conditions, too cold etc.

 

Preparation is the key to getting a good paint finish.

If I remember correctly the switch panels have a "soft touch" type paint finish from the factory so you will need to ensure all of that is removed. Rough grade wet & dry paper (120, 320 etc) gradually working your way up to a smoother grade paper (800, 1000 etc) should do it although getting into all the little corners will be tough.

Once you've removed all of the old paint finish you will need to wash the switch panels, then dry & then use a panel wipe ideally for best results before spraying (make sure you're wearing some latex/nitrile gloves at this point as you do not want to contaminate your cleaned part) with a plastics primer (I use "Hycote" products but others available as below).

Link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOTEK-AEROSOL-PLASTIC-PRIMER-GREY-500ML-SPRAY-PAINT-BODYWORK-MAINTENANCE-/111507773504?hash=item19f6619840:g:HZcAAOSwPe1ULsCP

 

Once your plastic primer has dried completely & you're happy with the surface finish then you will want to panel wipe the part again before beginning to spray paint it with your base coat. Should also mention that when you're spraying do not try to put too much on at once, the key is to build up the layers slowly to help avoid runs.

When I'm spraying using a gravity fed spray gun in work I tend to lay down a "dry coat" firstly followed by a "wet coat" although this technique does take some practice not to over do it.

As long as you've got a good even coverage on the part, then just leave it to dry for say 10-15 mins before laying down another layer so that you're building it up slowly.

 

Once you're happy with the paint coverage on your part then leave it to dry for at least 24 hours before covering with your chosen lacquer (clear coat). When applying the clear coat again build it up slowly in layers as if you put it on to thick it will run & need rubbing back.

Try to allow each layer of clear to "tack off" slightly before applying the next layer and keep repeating this process until you're happy you've got enough clear coat on your part.

Once you're done make sure you leave it to dry properly, if you're unsure if it's dry then just leave it even longer to dry as you've discovered otherwise you will leave finger prints on it.

 

Hope that helps and hopefully I haven't missed anything out. If I have I'm sure someone will spot it & add a comment though.

[SiriusProjects]

Thanks GMBallistic, that's great.

 

The lacquer not hardening properly may have been to do with me being over zealous and putting way too much on. I am using rattle cans as you call them by the way.

 

Couple of things:

 

1. Is it wise to use the same make of primer, base coat and lacquer? Just wondered if there could be some possibility of a different brand causing an odd reaction when used with another.

 

2. I currently use the shed to do any spray painting in, as doing it in the house is out. Would it be advisable to do the spraying in the shed and then to maybe bring the parts into the house as I've got no way of regulating the temperature in the shed as there is no power there?

 

Thanks.

[GMballistic]

I don't think using the same make/brand of primer, base coat & lacquer is necessarily necessary but if you suspect the base coat paint is reacting with your primer then it can't hurt to try the same brand.

Although if you're spraying in your shed reactions could be down to temps/humidity or even oils in the air itself from contaminates in the shed maybe.

 

If you can spray the parts in the shed and then bring them into the house over night to dry it maybe more beneficial as it will get cold in the shed over night slowing any primer/paint/lacquer curing. Do not try to move the parts into the house straight after painting though as it will still be wet/soft etc and you will undoubtedly get your part covered with debris (like hair, dust, dirt particles etc).

If you can spray them in the morning and then leave them in the shed until early evening before moving that would probably work best.

 

Remember to think ahead though about how you're going to support your part whilst painting and how you're going to pick the part up once it's painted. Personally I like to build up small boxes (usually made from match boxes, cardboard or small cereal boxes etc) which help to lift the part off the ground/table surface firstly and also give me something good to hold onto whilst painting or place the part on to dry when done.

You can fix something like that to the underside of the switch panel easily enough then using masking tape or similar and then it'll be easy to hold whilst spraying, carry into the house with & place down onto a table for drying indoors.

[SiriusProjects]

Thanks GMBallistic. I know some of this may be obvious, but I appreciate all the little pointers. Especially if it helps me improve my preparation, spraying and finishing skills.

[Stutopia]

If you want to be confident that something is dry, before touching it to find out and risking finger prints. Just grab something useless nearby and paint it at the same time. You can touch that and mess around all you want, seeing how tacky it is, without laying a finger on the important item.

[SiriusProjects]

Thanks SuperStu, that does make sense.

[Darkside]

Just a thought, but when I work on plastics like this, I spray light coats and use a hot air gun in between. A hair dryer would do and just wave the heat backwards and forwards and about 30cm away for a minute or so. This should help with the curing process and speed up drying in between coats reducing time from about 10mins to about 4 or 5 thus allowing you to spray more light coats in less time. DON'T ALLOW THE HEAT TO BUILD UP TOO MUCH as you can go too far and blister the paintwork and you'll beback to ssquare one and you'll be stripping back the paint.

Just an idea.

 

Good luck and post us a pic when you are done!

Edited April 11, 2016 by Darkside

[Ricey]

Ready for use lacquer (rattle can) should dry like buggery.

 

What type of primer did you use?

 

Really you need to use plastic primer first.

 

Also using acrylic primers with some paints will cause reactions

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

 

[Darkside]

Ready for use lacquer (rattle can) should dry like buggery.

 

What type of primer did you use?

 

Really you need to use plastic primer first.

 

Also using acrylic primers with some paints will cause reactions

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Defo plastic primer a must!