evilscorp Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Went to Dyna Tune today to sort out the lean and sometimes boggy car. It seemed to have issues with fuel mixture after installing the treadstone 1245 intercooler, mostly at very slight throttle in 4th at 30mph and 6th at 60mph (not good since the car spends a lot of its time at those speeds, was having to run in a lower gear to stop the hesitation/ lean air/fuel shown on the AEM gauge.) Also had not seen more that 4psi boost in a while So arrived to find a workshop that was better than I was expecting, a fella who could not have been more knowledgeable about charged 350z's (thanks Clarky and Stevie for the stored map's to work against!) and was a genuine nice guy. Some of the stories Chris told me were cool and also made me think how hard his job is when you get idiots who don't have a clue what they are doing turn up with their diy toy (myself in that boat). He set about checking how the car was running with a base power run and the old girl did ok, but at the higher rpm the boost dropped off quickly, (belt slip, we thought). So we had a go fitting the 3" charge pipe and the 3.12 pulley (thank god my air con pipe was already broken as it had to be manhandled to get the dam pipe to fit, couple other issues (wasn't expecting it to take so long to fit but as always nothing is easy ). Owe you some Maf bolts Chris Chris then started to work his magic and told me my car could be live mapped (had been told previously it couldn't, and if i can find some cruse control buttons I could get multi maps ( need to look into this). Just as he was starting to get higher up the rpm the boost kept dropping off so we installed new belts and tightened everything up, but still kept dropping off, started tightening couplers, then we could hear a whoose of air from down the front of the engine bay, by this time its late afternoon and both of us were frozen. So I either have a boost leak from the coupler after the bypass valve or the valve itself is not sealing correctly, which is the most likely and I will need to address at some point in the future, as Chris said its exposed to the elements and it doesn't get used at high rpm enough so possible that the alu has oxidized around the seal. So with that in mind Chris finished off the map lowering the air/fuel mixture to a safer better level and what a difference the car was smooth and nice to drive the whole 35miles, he has lowered the idle rpm which I didn't realize until I got home and after being misinformed that you should always raise the idle to 1000rpm plus, I find its a lot quieter and can hear the engines health and noise better also the belts sound slightly different. Need to find some time next month to jack the car up and take off the pipework at the bottom to hunt for the boost leak/issue then I will be back up to Chris to push the old girl to 400whp where she will be safe and hopefully tide me over until I get this Dam garage built for the new engine!!! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris@Dyna.Tune Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 I've only just noticed this, thanks for the kind words We'll get you to your 400HHP no bother next time so long as your boost leaks sorted 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 New O-ring and a good clean inside the bypass valve also tightened the coupler clamps, might double them up for added security too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris@Dyna.Tune Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 No need for double clamps, it'll only be extra weight and slow you down 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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