Kieran_ctr Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Can anyone help? I have searched it but can't seem to find a how to guide? Or has anyone done it before who can help? I'm hoping it isn't a bumper off job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veeg33 Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 (edited) Should be easy mate. Which one you are replacing? I'm assuming front as I remember seeing one of your threads before? Anyway, both are located behind driver side wheel liner. Do a full steering lock (to the left), and you should be able to access the pumps without removing front bumper Remove few bolts that secures the wheel liner, you should be able to just push them a side exposing the pumps. If i remember correctly, the front pump is the other one. You can remove the connectors first, connect to your new pump. Nissan 'fail safe' these as the front connector will only connect to the front pump and rear connector only to the rear. So no chance of mixing up. Connect your new pump first to the connector before removing the old pump from the reservoir. Once its done, test the pump and should be a able to hear the motor working. Once confirmed its working, you can now remove the old pump from the reservoir. Its as simple as just pull them out, same goes to the tube that supplies fluid to your washer. No bolts or anything to remove. But be prepared with your other hand......depends on the level of fluid you have in your reservoir, you'll need to plug the hole with your finger or something or you can just let the fluid drain out. Then just push the new pump in and bolt the wheel liner back in. Edited February 19, 2016 by veeg33 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lance350 Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Anyone know if you need a working rear washing jet for MOT? Mine has stopped working and I cant hear the pump go when I try use it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watshot Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Anyone know if you need a working rear washing jet for MOT? Mine has stopped working and I cant hear the pump go when I try use it. Not needed, not part of the current MOT requirement. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veeg33 Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 As above, I passed MOT in 2014 before I replace new rear motor. Just incase you need, BluePrint has aftermarket pump costing around £26. Here's the part number ADN10316 (Amazon or Ebay) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kieran_ctr Posted February 19, 2016 Author Share Posted February 19, 2016 Thanks for that veeg33 I'll give it a go this weekend hopefully 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoons Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Kiran, firstly morning mate. I can either talk you through it today, as I have the same problem and have the new pump to fit this weekend. When I do it I'll be putting a thread on to help folks. Regards Matt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kieran_ctr Posted February 20, 2016 Author Share Posted February 20, 2016 Kiran, firstly morning mate. I can either talk you through it today, as I have the same problem and have the new pump to fit this weekend. When I do it I'll be putting a thread on to help folks. Regards Matt Morning Matt, yeah that will be brilliant mate, hoping to get mine done Sunday morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Think it's as above but here too http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/59243-how-to-change-washer-pump-motor/ It's pretty easy, must be, I did it and only got a wet leg 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoons Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 (edited) Kiran, firstly morning mate. I can either talk you through it today, as I have the same problem and have the new pump to fit this weekend. When I do it I'll be putting a thread on to help folks. Regards Matt Morning Matt, yeah that will be brilliant mate, hoping to get mine done Sunday morning Just need a break in this bloody crapy weather lol, be nice to keep the Z clean for longer than 5 mins aswell. Same idea here to be honest and do an oil and filter change at the same time. Edited February 20, 2016 by Spoons 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoons Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Ok my first how to on here, hope this helps folks. Skill level. Basic D.I.Y level Usual rules take your time, think about what your doing. The hardest part is what most take for granted, jack and secure the vehicle properly your heads going to be under it. Items you need... Car jack. Axle stand (best practice) Stubby posi drive. Flat head screw driver. 10mm socket and drive/10mm spanner. Pre order a pack of plastic arch liner 20 x 8 clips from Ebay as if they haven't been off before they will snap when removing. Arch clips 1. Jack the car and support on axle stands, wheel ramps are not an option as you will need to turn the wheels. The windscreen washer tank with both front and rear pumps are behind the drivers side wheel arch. The headlight washer tank and pump are behind the passenger wheel arch liner. To allow access to the windscreen washer pumps and inner arch liner put full LEFT lock on the wheels after jacking and securing the vehicle. 2. Remove the three 10mm bolts under the car, one holds the arch liner to the front bumper the other two hold the arch liner to the under tray. 3. Now you can pull the edge of the under tray down to reveal two of the plastic arch clips that need to be removed. Then remove the remaining three clips in the wheel arch itself. 4. Finally there are two posi drive screws in the arch lip on the rolled edge of the wing, remove these. 5. Now you will be able to ease the arch liner out, revealing the windscreen washer tank. The left pump been the rear and the one closest to you on the right been the front pump. My front windscreen washer pump was broken and this was the one i was replacing. They are available of Ebay for about £8. You need to unplug the loom plug, this is easier with the flat blade screwdriver to press in the tab and pull the connector plug off. Next ease the small feed pipe of the end of the pump, again can be eased off with the screwdriver. The washer pump itself is simply a push fit into the washer tank, simply pull the washer pump down and back to remove. The rubber sealing grommet will more than likely remain in the tank, I chose to reuse the old grommet as it looked a better fit than the one on the replacement pump. To fit the new pump simply push it home, then connect the feed pipe and connector plug. Refitting the arch liner is as much of a wrestle as getting it out I'm afraid, but its all part of the fun right! 'I can see clearly now my washer works, all obstetrical in my way' lmao I hope this helps some of you guys and gals. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kieran_ctr Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 Legend Spoons I'll be giving this a go on the weekend hopefully & glad it sorted your problem out so it should solve mine too! Can't wait for a clear screen haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watshot Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Arch clips are easily removed intact. If you continue to pull the centre pin, the clip will tighten up again, hence why people then get frustrated and break them. Pull the pin about half way to a position which allows the legs on the clip to compress and pull through the hole without resistance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoons Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Arch clips are easily removed intact. If you continue to pull the centre pin, the clip will tighten up again, hence why people then get frustrated and break them. Pull the pin about half way to a position which allows the legs on the clip to compress and pull through the hole without resistance. I don't do frustration, been an engineer for my living, it's simply a material fetieuge issue. I don't just snap them off for the laugh and expense, most are OK but some are simply weekend by the elements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 As above, I passed MOT in 2014 before I replace new rear motor. Just incase you need, BluePrint has aftermarket pump costing around £26. Here's the part number ADN10316 (Amazon or Ebay) Please don't pay THAT much http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/car-components-accessories/hose-pipes-parts-and-pumps/universal-12volt-washer-pump/?BAR825&0&cc5_896 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veeg33 Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 As above, I passed MOT in 2014 before I replace new rear motor. Just incase you need, BluePrint has aftermarket pump costing around £26. Here's the part number ADN10316 (Amazon or Ebay) Please don't pay THAT much http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/car-components-accessories/hose-pipes-parts-and-pumps/universal-12volt-washer-pump/?BAR825&0&cc5_896 Never knew that can replace the OEM pump Wish I knew about it 8 months ago. Thought I've already saved some money by buying blue print vs OEM. Well, if my rear pump needs replacing now I know where to get them cheap. cheers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Moved to Guides and Pinned. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watshot Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Arch clips are easily removed intact. If you continue to pull the centre pin, the clip will tighten up again, hence why people then get frustrated and break them. Pull the pin about half way to a position which allows the legs on the clip to compress and pull through the hole without resistance. I don't do frustration, been an engineer for my living, it's simply a material fetieuge issue. I don't just snap them off for the laugh and expense, most are OK but some are simply weekend by the elements. It's just help for those following. Nobody's knocking your guide. People have been ripping those clips out for years, every now and then we just remind them of the correct way to remove them. (*weakened by *fatigue aside ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoons Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 I suggest a guide for those that really shouldn't be going near a car then. Been stumped by a plastic clip should be a sure fire sign they shouldn't be doing anything to a vehicle. Hence the reason I didn't over complicate the guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watshot Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Yeah, okay. The forum's here to help everyone, and there have been some that broke clips, we try to be inclusive . It's a simple piece of information that will help some avoid the unnecessary time and expense of buying replacements. You don't have to be so defensive about something that's not aimed at you . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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