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Polishing Machine


Adz

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Will be getting my car will be back on the road soon, and its paint work is not in the best condition.

Its feeling quite rough and covered in swirls etc.

So im planning on buying a polisher and learn how to cut and polish.

 

Has anyone used one of these in the link... or are they just cheap crap? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Polishing-Machine-Polisher-Sander-Buffer-1400W-Tool-Box-XXL-Big-Sponge-Set-/221707761725?hash=item339ecff83d:g:fkkAAOSw~bFWNJUd

 

Or can anyone recommend me a kit for under £100??

 

Cheers :thumbs:

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It's out of stock on this link but I have this:

http://www.cleanyour...2/prod_806.html

 

A friend that runs a detailing company also has one and uses it, as well as a bunch of others of course.

 

Thanks mate will keep a look out for this.

Ideally I would like something cheaper, but I'm new to detailing so do not know what compromises there would be in spending less money and if it would affect me

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I have a DA (dual action) polisher as well, you're less likely to 'burn through' to the paint with one of those - BUT - it seemed to take forever on some paints to get nice results.

So this was my first rotary polisher and honestly, it's great.

 

I've got no idea what the cheaper ones are like but just compare the specs and features to that one I posted, and if they are similar, yeah sure give it a go.

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Cheers Rob.

 

I take it the sponges/attachments are all interchangeable... For example better quality attachments from the Dodo Juice machine would fit straight onto a cheaper polishing machine?

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Polished Bliss do a good starter kit with a choice of polishers. Stick with a DA if it's your first time using one. Nissan paint is soft and you'll burn through with a rotary if you don't know what you're doing

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As I mentioned before, it's dual action, so moving in different directions:

PadMotion.jpg

 

Honestly, I wouldn't bother with a DA.

Just get yourself DECENT pads, that aren't too aggressive, and perhaps practice on a scrapyard bonnet or two first.

Watch plenty of videos to see technique.

Remember, several passes with less aggressive compounds (polish) and pads is better than wading in like a bull in a china shop.

Sure you can purchase a cheaper rotary tool but the polish/pads etc should be good quality.

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I believe the best correction is in the choice of pads and compounds used.

 

I can't for the life of me remember the polisher I have as there is no branding on it though it came highly recommended in previous threads and it was around £160. I like to watch all the detailing vids on YouTube and when I have a go, I don't think the results I get are too far from the pros.

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I've never used a DA always a rotary, its not easy to burn the paint, unless you really hold it down on a high speed on one place for too long, i've burnt a tailgate once, second time i ever used it, never done the same! not hard to get used to at all.

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I believe the best correction is in the choice of pads and compounds used.

 

I can't for the life of me remember the polisher I have as there is no branding on it though it came highly recommended in previous threads and it was around £160. I like to watch all the detailing vids on YouTube and when I have a go, I don't think the results I get are too far from the pros.

 

I feel confident and cautious enough to use a rotary.

Like you say, lots YouTube vids and research, should be ok.

 

Anyway I cant afford £160 after buying that Flywheel from you :lol:

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There is an excellent guide to machine polishing on the detailing world forums

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Cheers buddy, masses of information on that site. Just what i needed :thumbs:

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Before you hit the paintwork with anything it would be worth getting your paintwork assessed with a paint depth gauge. It'll give you some idea of what you have to play with and how aggressive (or non aggressive ) you can be.

 

Apparently Nissan paint is quite soft, so follow the advise of nearly all the obsessive detailers about and start with the least agressive first then go up in stages as necessary until you find what works

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Paul K
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I'd always recommend a DA both for the novice and for the soft Nissan paint - more so for the latter than the former.

A DA with suitable technique, compounds and pads is more that sufficient for soft paint whereas a rotary is just overkill.

 

That said there's no real harm in going for a rotary provided you know how to use and know the risks. If you're opting for the rotary then you really, really should go for a paint depth gauge too - I've never heard of anyone burning through with a DA but there's already been one on here with a rotary, so make your choice....

 

I appreciate its out of budget now but I'll always suggest this; http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/pb-soft-paint-polishing-kit-cat1.html for the Z. Buy some Poorboys Black Hole Glaze for now and that'll see you through until you have the extra pennies to spend on that kit. ;)

 

 

 

Regarding the overspray - first tackle it with a clay bar, start out with a medium grade and work up to something more aggressive if needed, which should remove it, then polish to tidy up.

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Problem is using a cheap rotary is like trying to cut a straight line with a butter knife.

 

Nissan paint is terrifyingly thin. I remember taking a scratch out on a BMW.......sanding away for ages I was. Confidence up I did the same on a 350.......2 swipes of 1500 grit and I was through.

 

I worked professionally with a DA for over 18 months.....you really don't need a rotary to correct a Zed.

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

 

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Ok, think I have been persuaded to go with the DA now.

Due to the horror stories of the soft Nissan paint I've definitely been put off.

 

Done loads of research last night (google+Youtube) and realise you can still get just as good results with a DA than a Rotary.

 

Cheers lads :thumbs:

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