Reece350z Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Yeah I've tested resistance though it but going to change it, it has cranking speed on the snap on scanner I used and it seen it so must be working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reece350z Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 So ended up replacing the crank sensor and it fired up straight away! But now I'm getting camshaft 2 sensor problem. P0345 twice and knock sensor signal low? Took the car for a drive and was very sluggish so topped the auto gearbox level up and went to drive again and won't accelerate hard, feels like it hits the rev limiter and starts to splutter and back fire.. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reece350z Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 So after rebuilding my engine and having a no spark issues ended up replacing the crank sensor and it fired up straight away! But now I'm getting camshaft 2 sensor problem. P0345 twice and knock sensor signal low? Took the car for a drive and was very sluggish so topped the auto gearbox level up and went to drive again and won't accelerate hard, feels like it hits the rev limiter and starts to splutter and back fire.. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 I think that you may have answered your own question, so I would be certainly looking at the sensors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 As per my other post in your topic I think that you may have answered your own questions, so I would be looking at the sensors. Did it really take you from my recommendation on the 18th of last month to replace the crank sensor ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reece350z Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 Just changed the connector then as the cables were all corroded and still same problem.. Attached video of what it's doing.. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reece350z Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 Not quite the 18th but sensor took a week to come as Nissan couldn't get a part number and a few days in between.. Wasn't far behind though. Thanks for you help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reece350z Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 after rebuilding my 350z with a new conrod and piston drove the car and was quite flat and then when i drove again it does this.. anyone have any ideas why? no codes present when scanned with snap on machine. any help welcome! IMG_9821.mov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 This is the 3rd thread essentially abou the same problem, people are trying to help you but you're not really encouraging further help by fragmenting everything. Above you've said no codes present but highlighted another code in one of the previous thread. I suggest you ask a Mod/Admin to merge all the threads and keep all the info in one place buddy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reece350z Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 I did have camshaft sensor code in which I changed yesterday and the code has now gone away.. my other posts where for the no spark issue which has also now been resolved.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 (edited) What Graham has said, impossible to give informed advice when you keep starting a new thread with all your ongoing issues. I think that I asked the question in one of your other threads if you had fitted the fly properly, can't remember seeing a reply. Best to get your threads merged and highlight the fix to each of your issues. Your vid smacks of fuel cut off as you are revving whilst stationery or could be the fly issue or sensor issue. Edited February 2, 2016 by ZMANALEX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 I did have camshaft sensor code in which I changed yesterday and the code has now gone away.. my other posts where for the no spark issue which has also now been resolved.. Well at least that's the code thing cleared up, we're not mind readers mate. Hope you get it sorted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reece350z Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 I did have camshaft sensor code in which I changed yesterday and the code has now gone away.. my other posts where for the no spark issue which has also now been resolved.. Well at least that's the code thing cleared up, we're not mind readers mate. Hope you get it sorted. I know sorry about that, new to these forums so not too sure how they work and what not! Thanks for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reece350z Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 What Graham has said, impossible to give informed advice when you keep starting a new thread with all your ongoing issues. I think that I asked the question in one of your other threads if you had fitted the fly properly, can't remember seeing a reply. Best to get your threads merged and highlight the fix to each of your issues. Your vid smacks of fuel cut off as you are revving whilst stationery or could be the fly issue or sensor issue. How do I go about getting it all in one topic? I thought I had answered sorry. Flywheel was never removed so hasn't been altered.. What do you think could cause the fuel cut off? Another sensor? You've been a great help so far so please keep on helping me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 What Graham has said, impossible to give informed advice when you keep starting a new thread with all your ongoing issues. I think that I asked the question in one of your other threads if you had fitted the fly properly, can't remember seeing a reply. Best to get your threads merged and highlight the fix to each of your issues. Your vid smacks of fuel cut off as you are revving whilst stationery or could be the fly issue or sensor issue. How do I go about getting it all in one topic? See Girnet's post above #2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reece350z Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 What Graham has said, impossible to give informed advice when you keep starting a new thread with all your ongoing issues. I think that I asked the question in one of your other threads if you had fitted the fly properly, can't remember seeing a reply. Best to get your threads merged and highlight the fix to each of your issues. Your vid smacks of fuel cut off as you are revving whilst stationery or could be the fly issue or sensor issue. How do I go about getting it all in one topic? Who I do I ask about it though? I've no idea sorry.. See Girnet's post above #2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Don't worry bud, I've reported it on your behalf and asked Admin to merge everything. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ebized Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 3 threads now merged. Reece350z. Please amend/edit your posts in this thread which are superceded and add a post as to what are the remaining outstanding issues. Thank you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reece350z Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 Don't worry bud, I've reported it on your behalf and asked Admin to merge everything. Thanks very much. And thank you admin! Currently the car won't rev up like the video and when trying to drive the car it won't drive under any load most of the time struggles and dies. When I took the car out after it first started again it lacked power but drove without stalling and the revs didn't fluctuate. I then topped the gearbox oil up as it was running low, because the torque converter had no oil in it. Just been and had a look then and the torque converter makes a squeeling noise now, so I'm going to change it but does anything think this could be the revving problem? I've no idea on torque converters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reece350z Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 Update: Just removed the gearbox tonight and noticed the fly wheel is bent! Due to stupidity on my part when putting the gear box on tightened the bell housing bolts first and didn't have the torque converter sat right.. The fly wheel could be the problem my revs aren't right? As the crank sensor wouldn't see the flywheel all the time and it was catching on the back of the block also.. Just an idea. Does anyone on here know of anyone with an auto flywheel for sale? Thanks for everyone's help so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reece350z Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 Update: car all back together now and running fine took it out for a drive and noticed temp gauge slightly up. Took it back home and topped coolant up and there was a crack in the radiator plastic housing at the top. Fitted a new radiator then and all is good runs nicely. Just have an exhaust leak to fix tonight and it's back on the road! Woo 😊 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 So just to be clear for others who may have the same issue can you confirm that the issue was the fly or CPS or both ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reece350z Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 So just to be clear for others who may have the same issue can you confirm that the issue was the fly or CPS or both ? I think the non start issue was down to CPS and the revving issue was due to flywheel. Struggling to bleed it now as Heaters are cold and temp Gauge is near the top! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 There is a knack to the bleeding. I think that there may be a "how to" in the guides section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Here you go: From the workshop manual for a N/A car. NOTE IT IS CRITICAL THAT THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE BE FOLLOWED EXACTLY! IT IS TIME CONSUMING, HOWEVER, ESSENTIAL! 3.1 Remove bleader in the stock upper heater hose. 3.2 Fill radiator and coolant recovery reservoir with anti freeze coolant. It should take 10 quarts, including reservoir. It is important that the coolant is poured through the radiator filler neck at less than 1.5 quarts per minute, in order to allow air in the system to escape. 3.3 When the engine coolant overflows the at the bleader, re-install the bleader 3.4 Warm the engine to the normal operating temperature with the radiator cap installed. 3.5 Run the engine at 3,000 RPM for 10 seconds and then allow it to return to idle speed. § Repeat this action three times. 3.6 Stop engine and allow coolant temperature to drop below 120°F. Use a remote electric fan to assist in this process. If necessary, refill the radiator and reservoir up to the filler neck. 3.7 Repeat steps 3.3 to 3.6 at least two more times (it may take more) with the radiator cap installed, until the engine coolant level no longer drops. 3.8 Check the cooling system for leaks with the engine running. 3.9 Fully warm the engine and listen for the sound of coolant flow through the heater unit, inside the car; while running the engine from idle to 3,000 RPM, with the heater control set at several positions between cool and warm. Repeat this action three times 3.10 If any sound is heard, continue to bleed excess air from the cooling system, by repeating steps 3.3 to 3.6, until the coolant level no longer drops. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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