Rear toe question

[Growling]

Hey guys. I've done a search, but I can't quite find exactly what I need so ill go ahead and post a topic.

 

I've recently installed HSD DT coilovers, and Driftworks front and rear camber arms.

 

I had a fiddle with the rear camber arms when I fitted them, and it seemed to have an odd effect on toe. I couldn't dial out the camber without the toe going a mile out.

 

There seems to be a load of arms out there, and some toe bolts too, but it depends if you have true coils or not, I don't.

 

The only other arm driftworks sell is the rear adjustable traction arm, here : http://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-rear-traction-rods-nissan-350z.html

 

It says these adjust toe, and I called Driftworks and they said I need these but I'm finding so many differing opinions on the internet I may as well ask on here as you guys should have the most experience.

 

The car will be run pretty low, and I want to get the car back to stock alignment settings.

 

Thanks!

[GT4 Zed]

The adjustable traction arms you put up are not tie arms! Is a popular misconception from some of the aftermarket/budget crew out there. It fine tunes the rear suspension by duality in bump steer to improve traction. The OEM arm is non adjustable but once the car is lowered you change the geo characteristics and to get the best you need this especially if you swap to bigger Tyres which accentuates bumpsteer and tram-lining.

If you have a true rear coil over setup then you got 2 options to adjust toe. Via the eccentric OEM cam washer/bolts on the spring bucket arm and if you do not have enough adjustment you can get aftermarket Eibach or SPC toe bolts/washers or similar. The second option is to get an adjustable toe arm which replaces the spring bucket arm. This is my preferred option as it saves weight and gives you a precise way to adjust toes via the radius rod.

You can also get eccentric lockout bolt/washers to prevent slip on the OEM ones.

I still recommend you get the traction arm as you aim to lower the car. Start by putting them at OEM length and adjust the length via the radios rod in small increments equally. On both sides until you dial out bumpsteer.

 

[Kaveney]

The adjustable traction arms you put up are not tie arms! Is a popular misconception from some of the aftermarket/budget crew out there. It fine tunes the rear suspension by duality in bump steer to improve traction. The OEM arm is non adjustable but once the car is lowered you change the geo characteristics and to get the best you need this especially if you swap to bigger Tyres which accentuates bumpsteer and tram-lining.

If you have a true rear coil over setup then you got 2 options to adjust toe. Via the eccentric OEM cam washer/bolts on the spring bucket arm and if you do not have enough adjustment you can get aftermarket Eibach or SPC toe bolts/washers or similar. The second option is to get an adjustable toe arm which replaces the spring bucket arm. This is my preferred option as it saves weight and gives you a precise way to adjust toes via the radius rod.

You can also get eccentric lockout bolt/washers to prevent slip on the OEM ones.

I still recommend you get the traction arm as you aim to lower the car. Start by putting them at OEM length and adjust the length via the radios rod in small increments equally. On both sides until you dial out bumpsteer.

 

Like this

 

Edited February 2, 2016 by Kaveney

[RobPhoboS]

I'm glad you brought this up Growling as I'm just about to purchase a few bits for the rear as well.

I'm on Bilstein B6/Tein S spings and was going to get the rear adjustable camber arms with lockout bolts.

But now it sounds like there won't be much choice to adjust the toe, hmm.

 

 

EDIT:

Ok, I just did some more reading (always helps), and now have realised the toe adjustment is from the oval washer on the spring bucket arm.

So an adjustable camber arm + lock out washers should be fine, and will just have to hope for now there is enough adjustment on the bolts (I do have the eibach bolts in a box somewhere).

Edited February 2, 2016 by RobPhoboS

[Growling]

I'm not on a true coilover set up. I'm using the oem configuration so can't fit the toe arms that replace the spring bucket.

 

Although it still seems like a real grey area, it sounds like I need these adjustable toe bolts..? I intend to run a substantial drop.

 

Edit - these?:

 

http://cougarstore.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_9&products_id=51

Edited February 2, 2016 by Growling

[Kaveney]

Lock out will be better as the adjustable toe bolts can be knocked out of line .

 

Alan

[RobPhoboS]

Lock out will be better as the adjustable toe bolts can be knocked out of line .

 

Alan

 

What choice is there for the toe adjustment if you don't have 'true coilovers' - and still rely on the spring bucket ?

(ignoring £600+ option)

As it looks like the adjustable toe arms replace that no ?

[Kaveney]

Lock out will be better as the adjustable toe bolts can be knocked out of line .

 

Alan

 

What choice is there for the toe adjustment if you don't have 'true coilovers' - and still rely on the spring bucket ?

(ignoring £600+ option)

As it looks like the adjustable toe arms replace that no ?

 

Think you can still adjust this from the spring bucket camber bolts .

 

I change to a 1 part arm with the lock out bolts for the unused spring bucket .

 

Alan

[RobPhoboS]

So roughly, adjustable camber arm + lockout washers (ideal), then adjust toe on the spring bucket arm with either Eibach/SPL adjustable bolts + a bit of dremelling with a #115 attachment I imagine.

Or if loaded, get the SPL adjustable spring buckets

[Kaveney]

So roughly, adjustable camber arm + lockout washers (ideal), then adjust toe on the spring bucket arm with either Eibach/SPL adjustable bolts + a bit of dremelling with a #115 attachment I imagine.

Or if loaded, get the SPL adjustable spring buckets

 

More or less .

 

Or give it to some one with lots of cash and say fit this please