mk1_nutter Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 I bought the Z back in Sept. And it would always squeek at the rear. I always kept an eye on the one side that squeeked but didnt realise all this time that the offside was over compensating and in Nov I found that the offside pads were down to metal but the nearside were like new, including the discs. I found the pins were not as free as they should be. I ordered new boots and cleaned the pins and carriers and installed new brakes and bled them. The nearside seemed to have more bubbles when using a draw through tool so I bled that side manually with and ezibleed. This weekend 4 weeks on, I noticed that the squeek is still there and the disc hasn't even lost its machining lines where offside has. I removed the slider pins to make sure there were fine and they are. I also had someone sit in the car and press the pedle as i observed the caliper moving. Am I looking at a potential air leak on the piston seal? If so do I order a rebuild kit or order a new caliper....do the JMD use a caliper that's used on other model nissan Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 (edited) Sounds like a seized caliper piston, which is a common fault with the JDMs. Edited January 24, 2016 by ZMANALEX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk1_nutter Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share Posted January 25, 2016 Cheers Alex,am I looking at a new caliper or a rebuild? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 You might be able to free off in situ depending on how well it is seized. Otherwise rebuild or another caliper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumping350 Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 ive got a full set of JDM callipers about somewhere drop me a PM if you need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk1_nutter Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 I took the caliper off today and striped it down and gave it a good clean and de-rust as well as measure the seals to order new ones. It's still the same which makes me worry as I did test the caliper before sliding it over the pads. Could this potentially be an abs problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 1, 2016 Share Posted February 1, 2016 I took the caliper off today and striped it down and gave it a good clean and de-rust as well as measure the seals to order new ones. It's still the same which makes me worry as I did test the caliper before sliding it over the pads. Could this potentially be an abs problems? Are the caliper pistons definitely free ? Did you have the pistons out as a ring of rust can form behind the piston ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk1_nutter Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 Hi Alex, I fully dismantled the caliper: removed it from the car, removed all seal and also took out the piston. I found light rust on the top of the piston as there was heavy rust where the metal clip holds the dust seal into. I cleaned this all and reassembled. I bleed the caliper with an Visiibleed and had no bubbles. (I will check again on the weekend with my compressor draw through tool) I recently bought this to see if i have any air leaks when pressuring the system as i am not loosing any fluid but the cap is different. I noticed the inside of the piston (the area facing outwards) is very rusty and flaky so i too removed any loose pieces and ran a dremel sanding attachment inside. On assemble i ran the piston in and out. I'm wondering now if the rust inside the piston is making it imbalanced / if i need a new seal inside the caliper / if a used/new caliper will fix the problem. Do these cars have valves for the rear brakes? I'm also going to check the flex pipe to make sure its not expanding this evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk1_nutter Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 (edited) also just to add it does seem to be braking slightly as the disc does get hot but no way as hot as the other side. Edited February 2, 2016 by mk1_nutter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk1_nutter Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 ok so a new update on this: I've installed a used caliper and hose from a fellow forum member on the Nearside. Its braking a tad better however the drivers side is still stronger. After 2 weeks of being on the car i unbolted the calipers and working on one side at a time pushed the piston out through braking and used a wind-back tool to push them back in. I too checked the sliders to be fully functional. I cannot fault either caliper however the Offside caliper is much stronger and the pads are at half life after 3 months of use whereas the nearside are barely used. I find that i can physically move the Nearside caliper by hand but the Offside has little movement. Could i be looking at a faulty ABS unit? It feels that either the Nearside piston is being drawn back too much so when pushed out its not as forceful as the Offside or the Offside is not being drawn back enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk1_nutter Posted April 24, 2017 Author Share Posted April 24, 2017 update, it turned on the caliper was faulty on the opposite side. Both calipers were replaced and all is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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