HassanZ Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 Hi all, I was driving (2004 350z UK GT) yesterday morning in a non-spirited manner and parked up to go to the Post Office. The journey was about 5 minutes tops from my home. I got back to the car 15 minutes later and went to turn her over, I noticed the car struggled to start (you could hear it cranking much longer than usual until it fired up, although it did fire up upon the first attempt). This was really odd but I thought maybe it was a one-off occurrence and drove back home as usual. Later that day I started her up and it fired up normally. Around 10 minutes into the journey, all of a sudden the EML light (yellow emissions), traction control light and skid light activated which really panicked me. I pulled over on the side of the road and switched off the engine and fired her up again. The skid light and traction control lights disappeared but the EML/emissions light remained lit. I continued on my journey and was now around 20 minutes into the drive when I felt something odd and all 3 lights lit up again. I drove the car slowly in case it was a major problem and didn't want to cause any damage to the engine. I left the car in the car park for around 3 hours and returned to it. when I turned her over, the car struggled to start again although it did start the first time as happened previously. I'm not sure if I'm imagining this, but I feel as though the car does sound different? Currently I have no access to an OBD II reader and wanted to know whether any of you would have any idea what this issue could be? I just want to put my mind at rest until I can get hold of someone who can read the fault codes for me. I'm not sure if this helps but the battery was recently changed (last year) but the car has hardly been used lately. I appreciate all your help guys, I just hope this won't be a major issue! Kind Regards, Hassan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rothers2901 Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 Sounds like the battery to me, try checking the terminals to make sure they at conected poperly and making a good connection. Is it showing fully charged when running and putting in the correcrt amount of charge back in. It should be showing around 14v. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopedmark Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 around in other Guides but here in one courtesy of Abbey ECU Resetting Procedures Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second?s needle will be useful. ECU Resetting Procedures Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second?s needle will be useful. Operations Procedures 1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ?ON? and wait 3 seconds. 2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds. 2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD). 2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal. 3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. 4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking) 5. Wait about 10 second. 6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds. 7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink). 8. Turn ignition switch to ?OFF? position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU. Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Operation Procedure 1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch ?ON? and wait at least 2 seconds. 3. Turn ignition switch ?OFF? wait at least 10 seconds. 4. Turn ignition switch ?ON? and wait at least 2 seconds. 5. Turn ignition switch ?OFF? wait at least 10 seconds. Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning Operation Procedures 1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch is ?ON?. 3. Turn ignition switch is ?OFF? wait at least 10 seconds. Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning) It is better to count the time accurately with a clock. Operation Procedures 1. Perform ?Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning?. 2. Perform ?Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning?. 3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. 4. Turn ignition switch ?OFF? and wait at least 10 seconds. 5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ?ON? and wait 3 seconds. 6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds. 7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD) 7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal. 8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON. 9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON. 10. Start engine and let it idle. 11. Wait 20 seconds. 12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mopedmark Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 Try this its the peddle dance , it does work 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 This is almost identical to my bank 1 cam position sensor fail. I was going to the shop not the Post Office Good luck with the dance and be sure to film the light sequence with your phone for easy reference. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted December 19, 2015 Share Posted December 19, 2015 (edited) cracking the engine over is all battery effort and then the alternator looks after the electricals from then on while also putting charge back into the battery. 5 mins wont be long enough to put sufficient charge back into the battery for a full charge. plus 5 mins of winter driving means extra fuel to try and bring the car up to temperature quickly. i would say the starting issue will have been slight flooding and lack of charge in the battery also. the warning lights matter, again from lack of charge in the battery. few weeks ago while driving with a failing alternator the air bag light came on, purley down to the battery having a hard time. ecu reset or clear the codes with a reader, long drive and you should be all good. david Edited December 19, 2015 by davey_83 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LRF4N Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 This is almost identical to my bank 1 cam position sensor fail. I was going to the shop not the Post Office Good luck with the dance and be sure to film the light sequence with your phone for easy reference. I had that as well, a few members have now. That's what my money would be on 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HassanZ Posted December 20, 2015 Author Share Posted December 20, 2015 Thank you all for your responses, much appreciated. I highly doubt it's a battery failure as it's a fairly new battery but I will get it checked. So I'm assuming the mostly likely cause is the camshaft position sensor failure. How much would I be looking at to get this sorted? I'm trying to find someone within the Leicester area with a OBD II reader to get the codes read. I am pretty useless at the pedal dance method! I just hope this isn't a big or costly job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LRF4N Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 I can't remember the cost it was a while back. Don't think it was too bad I think zmamalex should be able to supply the sensor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 Not too bad. Bank 1 is easier to get to, but 2 isn't that bad. Get the codes up first and check. Got mine new from Clark Motorsport. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brillomaster Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 go and see Mitz at cougarstore in Leicester, sure he'll have a reader and can fix the problem if one is identified. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmck13 Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 (edited) Did you get this resolved ? I have a reader if its not been done yet depends where you live oops I see your Leicester area, suppose its sorted now. Edited December 21, 2015 by cmck13 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HassanZ Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 Hi all just thought I would update you. Thank you all for your informative responses, it is very much appreciated! I received my OBDII scanner a few days ago and just got the chance to read the codes. The screen reads the following: 'P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit bank 1 or Single Sensor'. From the research I have carried out, I believe this is the green connector behind the engine on the driver's side (Bank 1)? After viewing a YouTube video on replacing this sensor on a G35 (same engine), it seems as though you just remove the engine cover (plastics) then remove the vacuum line using a 10mm socket at the rear of the engine. Once that's off apparently the green connector should be visible which you can then use a 10mm spanner to remove. Is there anyone on here that's replaced this sensor themselves that could confirm this is the correct method? Is there anything I should be careful of or look out for? Are there any risks involved with doing it myself? I was told I'd have to get underneath the car to replace this sensor but the YouTuber demonstrated otherwise? Will I need to purchase some oil as I was warned I may lose some? The link to the YouTube video I watched is below: Many Thanks for your help guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 I had one handy when mine went, so the RAC chap swapped it out on the drive whilst I "supervised". For Bank 1/Driver's side he didn't remove anything except the sensor and he did it from above, not underneath (it's way too high up to go in from below). He did struggle to get the green plastic release slider to play once the sensor was out but we did a quick YouTube search and unclipped it thanks to this vid ( see from. 30 seconds - I know this Bank 2 but it's just the green slider clip bit) There was not much slack in the loom so it was quite confined, suggest getting a small light up there and a towel over your wing to prevent scratches. Some swearing might be required too. Usual disclaimers apply! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Straight forward, the trickiest part is getting the connector off the sensor as you have to push the clip towards the engine to release the connector.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HassanZ Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 I have got the sensor out of the engine and the sensor is currently connected to the connecter on the loom with the slider on it. I push the slider down so it clicks but there is still a gap present in the slider hole /slot. I have tried everything but it does not budge! I'm currently outside swearing my head off but it's not helping! Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Are you pushing the clip in the correct direction ? If so, give it a good scoot of WD40 or similar and a blow with an air line if you have one handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HassanZ Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 Are you pushing the clip in the correct direction ? If so, give it a good scoot of WD40 or similar and a blow with an air line if you have one handy. Thank you so much for taking the time out to reply, I only just read your message. I don't know why but I'm not receiving any notifications when receiving responses on threads even though I have registered to receive notifications (follow thread)? After a lot of swearing and sore/numb fingers, the sensor finally freed itself. I pushed the clip using a screwdriver which made the slider go all the way resulting in that small gap disappearing. Once the slider was stuck in that position I yanked the sensor and it came out. Fitting the new sensor on and fitting it back onto the engine block was a doddle. Once that was done I reconnected the negative terminal back onto the battery and used my £10 eBay OBDII code reader and cleared the codes. The car is now working perfectly! It's so satisfying rectifying an issue yourself! Thanks to everyone who contributed, I really appreciate it! Hassan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted January 13, 2016 Share Posted January 13, 2016 Result! Nice job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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