Jetpilot Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 You dont need to map for it, its just there to keep intake temps down. The kits are popular in the states but not so much over here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajw Posted November 3, 2015 Author Share Posted November 3, 2015 Its been around for years and was developed for ww2 aircraft, i would have absolutely no concerns in using it, your probably talking 100k miles before any significant erosion is noticeable At some point i will be going for it on my v3, imho, it can only help, not for more power, but inlet temps and det, it also cleans the top end of the engine Again, I'd love to see this! My car is running well at the moment, but I have plans for increasing its safety/longevity next year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 (edited) Dose anyone have a link to the sort of kits you would use I've no idea how they work If the kit failed for whatever reason you could have a safe map built like I have. if iat reach a certain temp my car switches to a safe map Litchfield built As said fail safes are only needed if its a mapped for WI system, IE one in which things like ignition timing has been advanced, and fuelling tweaked, then you just have default maps should say the tank ran dry or you had a blocked jet, but I think that is all included in the new modular systems. I have used Aquamist stuff before they developed the modular kits, which pretty much cover everything, they are actually used on some production cars, they are on the expensive side but make up for it with effect and ease of application,http://www.aquamist-direct.com/ There is also a forum which is pretty helpful, and if you can get to talk the Richard Lamb he is the system designer/engineer guru of WI, very nice fella too, I think there are still some pics of my Supra install in the gallery, must go and have a look. Edited November 3, 2015 by Tricky-Ricky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyser Posted November 3, 2015 Share Posted November 3, 2015 I had water injection on mine, it was the difference between detonation and smooth running, as I had high comp ratio and FI we were getting det at about 3500 rpm water only was enough to reduce the inlet temp and get rid of that problem. Never added any meth but I did have a 75 shot of NOS for those times when 450 RWHP just won't do it O and it was mapped in with fail safe to the Haltech ECU so if anything does not do it's job at very least I got a warning light if not a limp mode setting. Ahhh the good old days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richf Posted November 4, 2015 Share Posted November 4, 2015 (edited) Reducing intake temps is a route to proven power , using the formula pv = nrt (https://en.wikipedia...i/Ideal_gas_law) If you remember your gas laws of course In real terms an engine produces about 1% more power for every 20 degrees Fahrenheit drop in intake temperature so thats about 2.5% difference between a very cold winters day or the height of the UK summer In DAJW's car thats about 12 hp if i have done my maths correctly Edited November 4, 2015 by Richf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajw Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 I had water injection on mine, it was the difference between detonation and smooth running, as I had high comp ratio and FI we were getting det at about 3500 rpm water only was enough to reduce the inlet temp and get rid of that problem. Never added any meth but I did have a 75 shot of NOS for those times when 450 RWHP just won't do it O and it was mapped in with fail safe to the Haltech ECU so if anything does not do it's job at very least I got a warning light if not a limp mode setting. Ahhh the good old days Oh that's very interesting! (The water part). The NOS is silly! :-p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajw Posted November 5, 2015 Author Share Posted November 5, 2015 Reducing intake temps is a route to proven power , using the formula pv = nrt (https://en.wikipedia...i/Ideal_gas_law) If you remember your gas laws of course In real terms an engine produces about 1% more power for every 20 degrees Fahrenheit drop in intake temperature so thats about 2.5% difference between a very cold winters day or the height of the UK summer In DAJW's car thats about 12 hp if i have done my maths correctly An engine is an air pump, a thermodynamic 'heat engine'. I've no doubt there's lots of losses and real world variables that detract from the ideal law. I was always more interested in quantum & laser physics than classical thermodynamics at uni. The simple fact is, a Vortech V-3 can push something like 1100 CFM if I recall correctly. Squashing air requires (a lot of) work, work done on a gas in a constant volume raises the temperature (in the compressor, and of course in the combustion chamber). The Stillen charge cooler is a bit weak on the first part and I have nothing on the second, so water/meth seems like a sensible approach. I must admit to being puzzled by the largely ambivalent response from most. I'm encouraged by some of the responses on here about safety not power. This is why this forum is great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richf Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 Nos enters the engine at -130 degrees c , its a very effective cooler , plus it adds power its not as silly as adding something that doesn't burn imo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 My big problem with Nos , like adding boost, is that unless you add the correct amount of fuel as well you have an instant problem, so in my books adding something that only cools, and nothing bad will happen if it stops ( this is providing its not a mapped for scenario) is a no brainier. Don't forget we have mostly been talking about using WI as a charge and in cylinder cooling aid, and if done correctly can add a few bhp and ftlb with no risk, and quite a few benefits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flex Posted November 5, 2015 Share Posted November 5, 2015 mmmm meth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajw Posted November 6, 2015 Author Share Posted November 6, 2015 Water only in the BMW M4 - That vid is a bit hackneyed (cutaways, dubstep track) but is pretty much what I want. At the very least it suggests that I may need to consider more than I thought because that implies that the water isn't injected until the air is above a certain temp. And how much to inject? How do you even dial that in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 6, 2015 Share Posted November 6, 2015 You can also map the WI, the WI has a pulse width control like an injector before the jet, so you can literally map it like a fuel injector, I mapped my Supra so that I only injected water once a set boost or load was reached, so its only being used when its needed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGC-Z33 Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 I know i'm late to the party, but just finished reading the thread, interesting seems legit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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