dajw Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 (edited) I have the Eibach stabiliser bar and SPL drop links front and rear. The photo above shows how the front drop links sit with the car on its wheels, facing forwards. They rattle/bang a bit (not as much as when the prior set were on). I'd like to sort out this noise as it is irritating. 1. Do I return to the stock links, as some have? 2. Is there anything I can do with regard adjustment? There are threads and spacers. 3. Those rose joints look like a good place for grit to work its way in and cause a failure. I don't expect them to last very long on UK roads. (We have the same issue with mountain bikes - UK designed full-suspension bikes are generally okay with our sticky geological grinding paste. US ones seem good for dust and dry conditions and the bushings loosen up over a British winter or two - I expect the same here). Your thoughts and advice ever appreciated! Edited October 17, 2015 by dajw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissanman312 Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 Why do they rattle over stock dom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajw Posted October 17, 2015 Author Share Posted October 17, 2015 You tell me! No idea. The stock ones are rubbery. These are just metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissanman312 Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 I see I guess that's the answer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 Surly if they rattle dom they must be loose? I personally think spl stuff is absolutely brilliant on track but not for a road going car . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissanman312 Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 Surly if they rattle dom they must be loose? I personally think spl stuff is absolutely brilliant on track but not for a road going car . Do you have some josh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajw Posted October 17, 2015 Author Share Posted October 17, 2015 Surly if they rattle dom they must be loose? I personally think spl stuff is absolutely brilliant on track but not for a road going car . They feel tight. I can grab the vertical section and twist it about its long axis. I think what happens is they move with the steering, but get stuck at one of the extremes of their movement and then make the rattle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 There should be no load on the joints with all 4 wheels on the ground. Your images suggest that your drop links are way out and require adjustment. There should be no load and the links should sit at circa 90 degrees. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 Agree with Alex, who fitted them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey_83 Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 Maybe loosen the arb mounts and ends and re tighten then while the car is on a four poster ramp is with the car level and flat on its boots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 Surly if they rattle dom they must be loose? I personally think spl stuff is absolutely brilliant on track but not for a road going car . Do you have some josh? I have some (cheaper built ) whiteline ones . Not on my car yet though . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evilscorp Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 As above the angles are wrong, two spanners and some wood to raise the car up with the wheels on then I hope you don't like beer and the bellys that go with it as your going to scrabble under the car to adjust. Have fun =) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajw Posted October 17, 2015 Author Share Posted October 17, 2015 Thanks for the advice The local 4-wheel alignment shop said they were okay, H-Dev said they were fine, my brain and ears say they aren't fine! I will find a way to lift the car and get spannering. I've a gravel driveway at my flat, so will probably go with a lift or a pit to sort 'em out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richf Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 They look to be sitting the same as the stock ones would, adjusting them may help but they may still rattle, but as I said to you when I saw them my experience of exposed rose joints on road cars is that they have a short life , the dirt and grime acts as a grinding paste and wears them away very quickly. You can buy rubber covers but they often just lock the moisture in Since the standard car has a tendency to consume front drop links at quite a rate anyhow I would think new rose joints (You can buy them separately and save a few £££) would be an annual job really. I went for pattern ones like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370z-infiniti-e35-g35-g37-front-right-drop-link-/251295975004?hash=item3a8268465c:g:eAAAAMXQDrJRyzEX They are cheap so they might not last but will outlast a rose joint I reckon and only take 20 mins to swap out as they are much easier to fit I have adjustable ones on the rear but they are only set at the stock length at present so for me there are doing the same job as the stock ones anyhow As a comparison here is how my ones sit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 Dom, have a look here: Install endlink. To eliminate sway bar preload (recommended), leave one endlink bolt disconnected (other endlink bolts should be connected). Place car (all 4 wheels) on flat ground. Then adjust the length of the disconnected endlink until the bolt inserts easily into the sway bar. That will be the length setting to use. Assemble and tighten that endlink accordingly. Make sure that the endlinks have good articulation after tightening down the jam nuts. Grab the hex buckle and rotate left to right, the entire endlink should be able to rotate back and forth in an approx. 50 deg range. If not, loosen one jam nut and adjust the bearing, then tighten the jam nut making sure to keep the bearings in alignment. http://www.splparts.com/content/SPLREZ33.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richf Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 I like the protective dust boots on those Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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