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Clutch sticking and not returning on recently purchased GT4. [Cost of Urgent Work: £987.04]


Rhino

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Hey guys,

 

I just bought my Zed from a trade garage near London which specialise in 350's last week. I noticed the clutch was not returning on the long drive from Cambridge to Exeter with the symptons started early into the journey. I have done some research myself and a lot of people are saying it could be a leak or a slave/master fluid change.

 

I took it to Nissan as I wasn't sure if the trade dealer covered it under warranty and got a technician to check it out. I explained that most of the 05's have this issue and it's normally a simple fluid change but after he played around with the clutch he said it feels heavy and worn. He rang the garage that I purchased the Zed from explaining the issue and they said it is not covered under warranty.

 

Nissan then offered me a complimentary health check on the car which I took advantage of and today I have recieved a video of her up on the ramps being inspected. The technician said that there were no visible signs of leaks which implies that it's all clutch wear with the peddle being heavy and not returning. He mentions that the gearbox needs to be removed and inspected with a cost breakdown of "Cost of Urgent Work: £987.04" :scare:

 

The car is an import from ireland and has done around 40,000 miles. Should the clutch be out of shape?

 

I have had the car for less than a week and am already potentially facing a bill of £1000, what avenues can I try before forking out loads?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks in advance,

Ryan

Edited by Rhino
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Welcome along mate,

 

Firstly do not pay the dealer that sort of wonga!!!!

 

Half the time they do these "Free Checks" just to drum up business!

 

Even if your clutch is shot you will get it sorted for close to two thirds if not half that price!

 

However given 40K on the clock it is most likely not in need of replacement at the moment - of course it all depends on what it was driven like there are threads on here with 7000 to over 120k miles between clutch replacements (my record is 17k miles down to the rivets but I was supercharged :)

 

Back to you, my advice in this order -

 

1) Simple fluid change get a bottle of something decent RBF600 motul 660 or your preferred decent clutch fluid, drain the top reservoir then top up with fresh then bleed the clutch until you have refilled the reservoir twice. - Test drive :0

 

2) Replace the fluid (as above) but change the lower hose to a braided line at the same time and if you are doing this go the extra mile and change the slave cylinder as well - traders on here do kits the slave and the pipe and the fluid - try Clarke Motorsport, Zman Alex Torqen in the member traders on here :thumbs: This assumes a VQ engine as the slave cylinder is outside the gearbox on the later models it is inside and therefore much more labour intensive (gearbox out) but on an 05 you should be a VQ :)

 

3) If you still have the issue after the above then it's either master cylinder and or clutch so I would do the master cylinder but depending on your mechanical no how I would get it checked by a decent local garage not a Nissan dealer.

 

The symptoms of clutch not coming up are most likely a fluid problem they can in rare cases be caused by a very worn pressure plate and a dry bearing but usually you will get noise and clutch slip associated with this problem.

 

As far as not covered by warranty - If you were driving home from purchase then you will probably have a case "not fit for purpose" but the guys on here for that are Dan - "Ekona" and if you need a letter you want Ricey :lol:

 

 

Hopefully Dan will be along soon to add his 2 pence worth - no doubt after pointing out how bad you were for not having a worthwhile warranty :teeth:

 

Do not be alarmed by any of the above we are all here trying to help (mostly ;~0 )

 

Good luck with it all :thumbs:

 

K

Edited by Keyser
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Same problem. Stared with oil change, rebuilding slave cylinder, than braided line. Nothing. In the end i even replaced master clutch cylinder but the problem still persisted.

 

In the end i bought RJM clutch pedal and all of the problems where gone. Not to say how much softer is now pedal and how much better feel it gives.

Problem of Z is design of OEM pedal

 

Sent from my SM-G850F using Tapatalk

Edited by Snjur
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personally i'd be considering rejecting the car - its clearly not “of a satisfactory qualityâ€, and “fit for purpose†under sale of goods act. Doesn't matter if its covered under warranty or not, as soon as there is a problem i'd be turning round and heading back to the trader for my money back.

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Thank you all for the sound advice! I have recovered the car successfully from Nissan and I am about to ring an independant garage. I'd love to be able to say I can do it myself Keyser but unfortunately I am not mechanical. What I will do is approach the garage with your knowledge and hopefully that will safeguard me from a huge bill when they try and tell me it is something completely different...

 

The rest of the health check was all green and I am happy with that, it was more or less a free M.O.T minus the stamp and he said that the fluids could do with a change.

 

I will let you know how she gets on!

 

Thanks again,

 

Rhino

Edited by Rhino
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Thank you all for the sound advice! I have recovered the car successfully from Nissan and I am about to ring an independant garage. I'd love to be able to say I can do it myself Keyser but unfortunately I am not mechanical. What I will do is approach the garage with your knowledge and hopefully that will safeguard me from a huge bill when they try and tell me it is something completely different...

 

The rest of the health check was all green and I am happy with that, it was more or less a free M.O.T minus the stamp and he said that the fluids could do with a change.

 

I will let you know how she gets on!

 

Thanks again,

 

Rhino

 

Sounds like a plan - good luck mate if you need any other info you can always drop me a PM :)

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Imc I am across the River Exe based at the Commando Training Centre Royal Marines mate. (Is your Zed submersible?) I've just booked it in with Dinans Garage in Exmouth, the technician seems keen to do a full fluid change for me which is great, shame she's not getting seen till the 22nd though :dry:

 

He was impressed with my knowledge. Thanks again K, really appreciate it!

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Imc I am across the River Exe based at the Commando Training Centre Royal Marines mate. (Is your Zed submersible?) I've just booked it in with Dinans Garage in Exmouth, the technician seems keen to do a full fluid change for me which is great, shame she's not getting seen till the 22nd though :dry:

 

He was impressed with my knowledge. Thanks again K, really appreciate it!

 

Wish it was

true bond style

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All Zeds are submersible :)

 

Try it - drive into any body of water more than 1.4m deep and the Zed will submerse

 

Unfortunately at that point it's similarities to Mr Bonds Lotus end - Instead of changing into an underwater vessel you will find the engine stops and the car starts to fill with water - you won't even get a targeting system or the missile to take out the helicopter and if you did you would probably drown before you aimed it.

 

You will also become aware that after proving your Zed is submersible it will most likely never run again and is very hard to sell.

 

I would strongly suggest that rather than proving the submersability of the Zed you take it to a race track a much better way to spend the day IMO :thumbs:

 

See who said I don't have a sense of humor?? :lol:

 

 

I'll get my coat :)

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Hey guys,

 

I just bought my Zed from a trade garage near London which specialise in 350's last week....

...I wasn't sure if the trade dealer covered it under warranty

 

Warranties, warranties, warranties bah!

The trader is on the hook under the Sale of Goods Act. He has to fix it, or refund.

If he refuses, reject the car, return it, and take him to the small claims court. It's a slam dunk.

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