ZeppoJeff Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 So recently all I've been think about and reading up on is supercharger installs...gulp 2 questions I have to ask though are 1. What's the fastest someone has installed and supercharger on there 350z? I mean actually install at home and not put away somewhere to do. 2. How far can you go with the install before needing the base map installed to run safe before full remap? Can you get away with installing everything for the charger before the charger gets installed and run it on standard map? Discuss 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 1. 24hrs 3 guys, lots of breaks, pizza, beer, banter, tea, coffee, more banter, even more banter 2. If you change injectors you need another map. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeppoJeff Posted July 25, 2015 Author Share Posted July 25, 2015 1. 24hrs 3 guys, lots of breaks, pizza, beer, banter, tea, coffee, more banter, even more banter 2. If you change injectors you need another map. Was that Clarkies install by any chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 The time will depend on what SC you go for, however for an HKS or Procharger allow at least a day. Regarding the tune, you can drive to the mapper without the SC hooked up (installed but not driven) Alex. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 Clarkie, Darren, Mouthwash, Hassan etc just to name a few 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 FRS is the most time consuming, running the return hose from the inside the car where the fuel pump is, under the car and inside the engine bay. Also modding the fuel bucket, Darren's specialty 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeppoJeff Posted July 25, 2015 Author Share Posted July 25, 2015 Next question...what can the standard clutch and fly handle for power? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 You should be OK with OEM clutch for the power generated by Vortech SC, you could however change your flywheel to a SMF. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeppoJeff Posted July 25, 2015 Author Share Posted July 25, 2015 Thanks...all noted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 (edited) Next question...what can the standard clutch and fly handle for power? A worn clutch will not be enough to get the best out of your SC so best to factor in another £800 for uprated clutch and SMF. Edited July 25, 2015 by ZMANALEX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 Well, yes, if it's already on the way out, best change it when you do the SC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmck13 Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 I assume you have read this thread from Chris, covers the fitting of a vortech V3 but it was not trying to break any world records in the fitting time. I was too lazy to fit mine so mine was done at Abbey. http://www.350z-uk.c...a-supercharger/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dynamic Turtle Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 So about 23 hours longer than it takes to buy a GTR? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 Not everyone is as rich as you 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeppoJeff Posted July 26, 2015 Author Share Posted July 26, 2015 I assume you have read this thread from Chris, covers the fitting of a vortech V3 but it was not trying to break any world records in the fitting time. I was too lazy to fit mine so mine was done at Abbey. http://www.350z-uk.c...a-supercharger/ Yeah I've had a read over Chris's install and I think about everyone s on here. Seems a pretty simple install actually going by everyone's build. Only thing I think I'm worrying about when it comes to installing is the FRS but that's only because I really can't get my head around how it works and where it actually goes on the fuel rails. Been looking on all the manuals and doesn't actually say really. Anyways when it comes to it and I actually get the money to buy everything (including the insurance hike I'm sure) I'll ask the question properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dynamic Turtle Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 Not everyone is as rich as you Indeed and henceforth I shall be known as "Lord Loadsamoney". Might be cheaper and easier to shed some weight from the car first? No bothersome, unreliable and high maintenance forced induction headache to worry about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 No bothersome, unreliable and high maintenance forced induction headache to worry about? Well, in this case, not everybody is so NOT mechanical minded as you 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissanman312 Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 Not everyone is as rich as you Indeed and henceforth I shall be known as "Lord Loadsamoney". Might be cheaper and easier to shed some weight from the car first? No bothersome, unreliable and high maintenance forced induction headache to worry about? I don't know about not being reliable plenty of people done lots of miles fi if done right with good mapping High maintenance I give you that one all depends if your a get in a go man or somone who's car is a hobby and likes to tinker is all part of the fun I think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dynamic Turtle Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 Agreed in that it's probably a path better suited to the hobbyist, always seemed more hassle than its worth to me given all the ancillary improvements you need to make yo handle the additional power. Shedding weight probs not that easy or quick either... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jumping350 Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 (edited) FRS requires fuel bucket being modded to fit a line which is fed through the under of car into engine bay and attached to a FPR from there it goes to fuel rail, there is an additional adapter that goes on end of fuel rail to attach line from FPR. Took me ages to understand it but that's it...although easier said than done lol Edited July 27, 2015 by jumping350 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Read here Jeff: http://cj-motorsports.com/products/s0-fuel-system-vq35de Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 (edited) Perfectly do-able on the driveway Here's my 2p.. Personally, I think you are better off spending a bit more on the FRS. The basic (S0) FRS works fine but I think the basic modified OEM system gets a bit overwhelmed - seems to vary a bit with Zed. Mine's an early 03, and on the AAM basic, although it made the right ball park amount of power (about 420 fly HP on a 3.33 pulley), my fuel pressure was never smooth or pretty at the top end. Another member, mouthwash, had flat spots which were solved by upgrading fuel rails, so damping and flow is important. I've now gone the whole hog and installed a CJ stage 2 FRS which replaces everything. A slightly cheaper than S2 possibility is a CJ stage 1-S which gives the benefit of the new rails but doesn't change the main fuel pipe (as in the S2). In all cases you have to get into the fuel bucket, fit a new pump and bypass plug, fit an external regulator, return pipe and in the S1 or S2, fit rails. Cooling is necessary - OEM fans break down, so why not fit a Mishi fan shroud - more reliable and this gives the added bonus that you can get your arms in to tighten your V belt from the top without jacking. Oil cooler (thermostatic if you want a car to run all year in UK weather) is a good idea - as is an expanded or alternate lower sump pan. Arbitrary if you want to change coolant thermostat etc. Best injectors seem to be ID725. Many use Deatchworks, but there are some which have had issues with them. I've not come across a story of a failed ID yet (maybe there are less of us using them though). I believe Abbey recommend ID too. I've got HKS 3 step cooler plugs in mine - many select 1 step cooler. Lots of discussion about PCV. A catch can seems to work well - mine collects a good amount of thick oil. I found a small amount of much cleaner fine oil (like sunflower oil) in my plenum under the brass plate recently, so a small percentage of lighter oil gets through in the oily PCV mist, but the bulk of black stays in the can. My PCV is set up in OEM style configuration, some have vent to air breathers. Fitting the SC hardware doesn't take long. If you are changing lots of things and want to check them out one at a time (as I did), it stretches the timescales out - especially if you want to keep using your car as your rolling installation carries on. Planning is required there. I spent a few weeks driving around with the SC cog belt off in NA mode whilst waiting for some exhaust to come from the States. As Adrian said, the only real time you need to put on a new base tune is when you change injectors and/or upgrade to GT MAF as the stock pulse widths are incompatible with the large volume of fuel let through by bigger injectors, so do that last. For the big day after completing, I got a base tune from Abbey via email and an UpRev cable (which I later bought) via the post. This allowed me to drive to Abbey for final tuning on the Dyno. I've not personally had any reliability issues at all. I've chosen to upgrade my FRS since first tuning (and we're in eTuning stages at the moment) for OCD sake. I had a slight weep from one of my oil cooler banjos which was slightly loose, and in the early stages, my belt seemed to need tightening every so often. So far as keeping on top of maintenance, you need to keep an eye on belts, pipes and couplings, change SC oil (not hard) and shorten your engine oil change period a bit. I use Fuchs Titan Race Pro S in mine. Go on, you'll love it Not getting any commission here, but Torqen's Vortech SC deal looks like a very good value package (with a few changes and extras). Edited July 27, 2015 by ChrisB 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Ha ha! Good input Chris, you've virtually touched all the areas there! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Everything you need to know about the Vortech SC is covered here: http://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/270770-vortech-faq-read-this-before-asking-vortech-questions.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAN@ADRIAN FLUX Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 Hi, If you need any help with insurance at all for these types of modifications then please feel free to drop me a ine. Regards, Dan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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