Leeroy

Brilliant!

I recently went on a stag-do in Wales and we went Gorgewalking. There were a few jumps into the river (one was 35ft) and a zipline etc. It was a lot of fun.

The noise is difficult to describe but I think Ricey meant that it has a bit of a 'hard edge' to it, all the PD engines are the same. I have definitely driven smoother sounding diesels - having said that I really enjoyed my PD 150 engine, BM bothering was a lot of fun The irony is that I hated the Golf because it just did everything too well and had no soul. On the upside the engine was a bit of a lout

Celebrity endorsement too Ninja!

I can't believe you're all writing off the concept, just look at how awesome the Schumacher Stilo was

I think that as a thank-you for all this invaluable advice you should send plans for the weapons to all contributors

Happy days. I didn't realise Mitsubishi used the PD engine. It's a great unit especially in 150bhp guise - is that option in the Lancer? Have you thought about a proper re-map (AMD/REVO)? Big gains for little cash - you don't hear that said much on this forum

There are a few things on the VW pumpe-duse that this might be. Is the car smoking badly? Black smoke would indicate bad fuelling and white/blue smoke would be the probably be the turbo. The likely problem would be a split or dislodged boost hose or even intercooler, although I'd expect that to be low on power all the time unless it's a minor leak. You should hear the turbo spinning and an air leak somewhere. Other culprits might be a dirty Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR - looks like a throttle butterfly), temperature sensor (cheap and easy), MAF, injector loom, or fuel pump. The PD TDi 150 engine can have issues with worn cam shaft lobes and tappets, especially if PD oil hasn't been used, but this is rare and i think more common on the earlier (2002/3?) engines. Let's hope it isn't this as it's expensive. Hope this helps, good luck

They'd look pretty cool in cabinets in a games room. Of course the games room will be big enough to to contain a 'Killing House' so you and your mates can run around bricking yourselves

I'm a big believer in saving cash where possible but the idea of taking an exhaust to a fitter and saying "it might not fit at first, but will be fine after you've 'modified' it" sounds like a ball-ache to me Someone on the other thread (posted earlier) said that their fitter took 5.5hrs to adjust the exhaust then still wasn't happy to hand it back to the owner all 'skewy'. In fairness the Scorpion can need the diff shield modifying or removing but mine was fine - I wouldn't be happy with tail pipes that don't align horizontally or point the wrong way though It looks like the bottom line is that if you have a very friendly fitter or a mate who can do it, then it might be worth the effort. By the way.............CHAV SS EXHAUSTS FOR THE WIN!!!!!!!!!!

I was deeply disappointed when I turned out to be regular I wanted to be goofy I have Burton boots and they're good - are 32's made by Burton? I seem to remember there's one make that made by another. I started with a 168cm board which was about the biggest I could find in the hire shop (I'm 6' 7" ). Over the past 4 years I've gradually shortened my board choice and most recently used a 158 - it's wasn't the quickest in terms of speed but was much more fun in turns. Finding boots in a UK 13 is quite a challenge in itself! Good luck, you can't beat the feeling of having the slope to yourself after getting the last lift up (especially after a Jagertee or two!

I have the car booked in with DMS and they normally use a 75w90 oil (same for 'box and diff so I guess the GL rating will be the same?) which Dixon says is better for cold and hot use. I bow down to his knowledge of performance cars, however, based on what I have heard I feel more confortable sticking to genuine Nissan fluids for the 'box and diff. He's happy to put whatever I want in so that's cool. Can anyone give me the Nissan part no. for the gearbox oil (75w85 API GL4+) and the diff oil (80w90 API GL5) please?

There's a world of difference between the RE040 and RE050, mine had 40's on when I got it and they were sheite, although to be fair they were pretty worn. I like some slip at the back but they were ridiculous, the 50's are nice and progressive.

Play nicely guys Neil didn't word his post in the nicest way but he's right, 'some' Zed's are falling into the hands of people who eather skimp on repairs or turn them into chavmobiles. Keviswatt, I'm not saying that this applies to you but I would advise fitting a good value and trusted SS exhaust (ahem....Scorpion.....ahem) and here's why - I bought an S/H oem backbox which looked in OK condition and less than a year later it failed in the same place as my original one (and 99% of others). This is the weak point where the centre pipe and back-box are bolted together. I was lucky and got a good deal off a forum member here but it still cost me £70 inc fitting, I wish I'd got the Scorpion in the first place and enjoyed the ear food for a year longer In a few months you won't miss the extra outlay over the Troyosportif. Alternatively, as a short term measure you could get it sleeve-welded if you can get a good price. Some lucky people on here seem to have done that for around 50 notes but the best I could get was about £100 which I though was a bit steep for a 'bodge' so I bit the bullet and went SS. I haven't looked back, the Scorpion is awesome for the money

I got my specs from Alex's info here on the forum and I've contacted Dixon at DMS and asked him to confirm that this is what he will use Anyone know anything about Molyslip gearbox additive - is it a 'win win' or are there drawbacks from using it?

I'm about to have my Zed serviced and thought it would be a good idea to change the gearbox and diff oil as the car's done 70,000 miles and as far as I know they haven't been done. I've been reading up on this on the forum and am a bit worried that new gearbox oil could result in a stiffer box when cold (and first is already a little stiff when cold). First of all, will Molyslip additive cure this? Secondly, I want to make sure the right fluids go in, am I right in thinking that the gearbox oil is 75w85 API GL4 and the diff oil is 80w90 API GL5? I take it I shouldn't stray to any other spec no matter how similar? DMS are doing the service so I would hope they drop the correct oil in as I've been very impressed wih their work in the past Finally, if my car doesn't have any gearbox/diff issues would you all recommend changing the fluids at all and what benefits could I expect to feel afterwards?

Cool, thanks for the peace of mind lincolnbaggie. It's booked in with DMS down here for a P1 on steroids - additional coolant, gearbox & diff oil What area of Lincoln are you by the way?

The format is like that to entertain the masses, it isn't a dedicated petrolheads programme. I think it's a good show - at least you can watch it with the mrs as an alternative to Come Dine With Me

I think that'd be for the best

My car is due for a service and I'm not sure what it needs, before I go on I should say that I read and understood Lincolnbaggies excellent post about the service schedule viewtopic.php?f=17&t=32280 It's a late 2004 car with 70,000 miles on the clock. It's been serviced on the button since new and has had 7 services in 70,000 miles. These were performed on-time and run; 1. P1 2. P2 3. P1 4. P3 5. P1 6. P2 7. P2 - This should have been a P1 according to the schedule but it was the first service under my ownership and I wanted to drop a new air filter and plugs in. It ws done by DMS last August and covered engine oil, oil filter, air filter, plugs, brake oil. Nissan say that a P3 should be carried out after 8yrs/72,000 miles but as I understand it there isn't any difference between a P2 and a P3. As I did the plugs a year ago and haven't driven to the moon they don't need doing this time. I can't see in the Nissan service checklist whether gearbox and diff oil is necessary at any point. The other concern I have is that I'm not sure when the coolant was changed so I'll definitely get that one done. As my previous P2 service was effectively a Nissan P3 equivalent I think a P1 would be legit this time (plus a coolant change) - but I'm worried that future buyers might be put off if they don't see a P3 for this service. Sorry for 'another servicing question' but I just want to see what you guys think before spending out needlessly

You shouldn't worry about what other people think, if they think that then they obviously care more about how they wear their cars than how they drive. The Boxter is no more 'poor man's 911' than a 370Z is a poor man's GTR. The only reason I didn't buy one over the Zed is that it's a soft-top. I love the 350Z but I'd have a Cayman in a heartbeat

An 8% difference is huge from just different fuel. I just did some maths and that would equate to 22bhp in a 276 bhp Zed, although it's likely a non-blown car would likely be less than that. That's more than you'd get from a decent exhaust (assuming you had a car which didn't cancel out any gains ).

+1, great exhaust for the money. Just had one fitted and I'm happy with it

Thanks for the info everyone We've looked into taking on an additional mortgage with the building society and the numbers stack up nicely. They suggested that we could apply for consent to let, which looks like the best option for us at the moment, especially if we can keep our tracker. I've read that the first £10K of CGT is tax free and that CGT isn't applicable if we go consent to let and sell within 3 years. Can anyone one expand on the tax side of things if we sell the rental property further down the line, and whether there is any other tax relieft available?

It IS you!