ZMANALEX

OEM........................205 gms Chrome...................110 gms TI............................265 gms

Sorry but unfortunately you wont.

Not Much pm sent.

That is what I am offering you

If you can put a pic up of the ones you want to match we may have some in the workshop. Failing what Phil has to offer, I have a spare set of standard chrome nuts with 4 locking nuts and socket or just 20 nuts without the locking set, or 10 standard nuts to complete your set. Are you still with me

Why Not:yahoo: 1. Stew+1 2. Martinmac+1 3. Stan+1 4. xstric9x+1 5. Ebized +1 6. Beavis +1 7. Tilly +1 8. AK350Z(Scratchy) +1 9. Adam (Arphotographs) (the man with the cam) +1 10. Zmanalex +1

No point in beating yourself up over this. Take it back to the Dealers and tell them in no uncertain terms to get it sorted.

BUMP Another 6 sets arrived today, 2 off these are pre-orders, so 4 sets available for immediate despatch. Totally plug and play.......No Mod Required to loom or block connector. Genuine Nissan U.K. LED's. Still only £240.00 delivered. Cheers, Alex.

BUMP Another 6 sets arrived today, 2 off these are pre-orders, so 4 sets available for immediate despatch. Totally plug and play.......No Mod Required to loom or block connector. Genuine Nissan U.K. LED's. Still only £240.00 delivered. Cheers, Alex.

Probably just a noisy clutch, nothing to worry about.

They weigh 10 kg...........

The Zed engine is only good for 400 U.K bhp at the fly. But remember that it is the torque that will do the most potential damage.

Inside the OEM shift knob you will find the rubber seal that I refer to. If you dig that out you will find iether a small metal bush or two metal spring washers Hope this helps.

It is not blowing before the radiator cap. The radiator cap is opening and the coolant and pressure is being released to the canister.

Didn't think to check the heater, It was about 70 degrees F here yesterday. The spurts /leaks came from a machined hole in the top of the chrome coolant cylinder which can be seen in the photos. I put the car in for a compression check at 8a.m. so i can't answer more I'm afraid. Turbo installer said to fill via rad with chrome tank open. which implies only 1 pipe connecting the 2? - at the bottom - and yes I understand the airlock issue. No leaks around Rad cap, just from the top of the replacement coolant filler, whcih is in exactly the same place as the original, but smaller, so as to allow space for the Air intake pipes to put one of the Air filters in the nose at the front. Martin, Okay, on your description of your set up, this is how it is meant to work. The "canister" appears to only be a reservior which is not meant to hold pressure. I do not think that you have a relief valve fitted in your canister but I may be wrong. The only part of the sysem that is pressurised is the radiator, waterways in the engine, the hoses and the heater matrix. The cooling stystem will build up pressure as it heats up and the thermostat will open to allow the coolant to circulate and cool your engine. If there is excess pressure the radiator pressure cap will open to allow that pressure out and at the same time coolant will be removed from your radiator to the canister. If the canister gets to full then it will come out the hole on the top of your canister and be lost for good. I did not mean in my previous post that the radiator cap may be leaking, I meant that it may be faulty in that it is releasing to soon. You require a cap with at least 108kPa (1.1kg/cm2). Don't know why you have asked the garage to carry out a compression check as that will not identify your problem. If you are thinking along the lines of an internal coolant leak and you wish to check that out then what you will require is a coolant pressure test or going a bit further a Cylinder Pressure Test and to do that you or the garage will require one of these. This is a time consuming and technical job and I doubt if a Nissan garage would have the tools or the expertise to carry this test out accurately. The test has to be done to each individual cylinder with the valves closed. If you have entrusted the garage with your car, why don't you just tell them the problem that you are having with the car and ask them for a quotation to rectify the loss of coolant issue. Okay.........Back to DIY basics.... First step is to confirm if the car is loosing water and then overheating or overheating and then loosing water. If there are no leaking hoses etc then this could be something as simple as an air lock, faulty radiator cap, faulty thermostat, choked radiator or matrix. worst case may be head gasket or crack.

There was some tasty stuff out on Saturday. Usual 2 seater stuff, Good mix of Elise and Caterham 911 GTR RS X 2 911 GTR X 2 911 GT2 TURBO FERRARI 360? Evos. Over 60 cars were signed in and open Pit Lane. Adam told me that there was a black 350Z there but I never saw it the whole day which is a shame as I would have been over to say hi, so if you are reading this ZeddZ, Hello and hope that you enjoyed your Yeah Colin the side ways leaps as you call them is mostly at Duffus which is at the end of the main straight which you approach at 130mph. The Zed on stock suspension just floats over this but the KW Clubsport requires a softer rebound setting or you are tucked for the next two corners.

Okay, let's take a step back. Is your heater working as normal ? Where was all this coolant gushing from. (Please be exact) Water pumps have been known to fail (broken impellor) but highly unlikely in your case. Thermostat failures are rare, but this may be your problem. Radiator pressure cap failures are fairly common ( this can be checked with a pressure tester) I need to know a bit more about your plumbing Where do ALL the pipes/hoses to the "canister" come from? (please be exact) Where does the small black "overflow" pipe go to that comes from the top of the radiator? You will also now have air locks which is yet now another issue. I can only help you with an informed diagnoses if your replies are accurate. Alex.

There is a round rubber seal at the base of the shift knob that you are meant to replace everytime that you have the shift knob off.

Yeah, Colin, probably because it is the shortest exit but it does flame out of both consistently. Check this vid out from Saturday, I think I come into view about 2 minutes into the vid. and then I am gone. http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=fRulYqk-9JA

Really professional stuff there Adam, Good Job.

You were both most welcome, hope you had fun Yes Friday is on, made my Marie Curie donation this evening.

Good job mate, brings it all back.

How did the day go Alex? The day went real good Colin thank you. Went through one and a half set of 888'S mind you and 120 lts of V Power. Got 84 laps in which is 109 miles. The car behaved well but still running a tad hot at 110 degrees C when really pushing on but not quite reaching boiling point. Got a bit tweaking to do to the rear rebound, gonna soften it up just a bit. The plenum stood up to the pressure today as there was no issues there, maybe that had something to do with the 6 thick cable ties that I had round the main chamber to try and contain the resonating. Adam and Kat came up so he should be along shorly to tell his tale and hopefully with a few pictures. Cheers, Alex. Looks like a good result then - look forward to seeing some pics. Do you think your cooling issue is more to do with lack of air getting to the rads or a need to extract more from under the bonnet (despite the new C/F version), or something else? I remember in my motorsport days the usual trick was to put the heater on full blast to help the cooling - not always the most comfortable, but when needs must.......... Yeah totally agree Colin, running with the heater on full certainly helps to disperse the heat, no big deal with the Roadster as I have the roof down most of the time. If I have the roof up on track then that is only because it is raining and the laps times then become a tad slower so no running hot isues. Knockhill is a very demanding and technical track and it is the only track that I have temperature issues with. Silverstone and the Ring are much more "open" I think that I am now getting sufficient cold air in and the hot air is most certainly dispersing quicker and easier. The plumbing has been totally reworked and I am also mapped to allow excess fuel through on the over run to try and keep the turbos etc cooler. I am also running the Koyo R2577 which is a great radiator but I feel that a bigger core may help, so I plan to fit a bigger core shortly if I can squeeze it in. I think that an extra 2 litres of coolant should do the job so more fabrication work required I am afraid. There should be enough space as I am now running without my air con heat exchanger. Don't get me wrong, I am not overheating, I am just a bit uncomfortable at 110 degrees C. If I can get it down to 105 then I will be happy. Cheers, Alex.

How did the day go Alex? The day went real good Colin thank you. Went through one and a half set of 888'S mind you and 120 lts of V Power. Got 84 laps in which is 109 miles. The car behaved well but still running a tad hot at 110 degrees C when really pushing on but not quite reaching boiling point. Got a bit tweaking to do to the rear rebound, gonna soften it up just a bit. The plenum stood up to the pressure today as there was no issues there, maybe that had something to do with the 6 thick cable ties that I had round the main chamber to try and contain the resonating. Adam and Kat came up so he should be along shorly to tell his tale and hopefully with a few pictures. Cheers, Alex.

Had a look at your photobucket album and as you are not running big power your set up appears to be only running a "cannister and radiator. From cold, fill the "cannister" to the correct level and top the radiator to the top. If the overflow from the radiator does not dump to atmosphere then be careful when topping up the radiator that the coolant does not run from the radiator to the "cannister via the small diameter black hose or you will end up with a full "cannister and a full radiator.