ZMANALEX

Hi Alex, That the local 350z specialist I bought the car from. I think the crux was you couldn't get the dust cover by itself Tell me they are wrong Merrx Ymas!!! That's my point, why replace these parts only because of a perished dust cover. I assume that there is no wear on the ball joint or that it has not failed its MOT. If the only issue is a perished boot then I can only assume that the garage has marked this down as an advisory repair and nothing more. The hub carrier does come complete with the ball joint but I have upgraded mine and I may have a few lying around so I will have a look over Christmas. The boot is easy to replace and the balljoint is just a simple press fit. But like I said at the start, why replace it. If it aint broke and all that. The boots do serve a purpose but it is not cost effective to replace the whole hub carrier only because of a perished boot. I will also talk nicely to my Nissan stores manager about this when I am in collecting my next batch of rear leds, probably Monday. Also it wont be the first time that I have had to clean up and run some super glue around a perished or torn boot in situ. Cheers, Alex.

Martin, Who is saying that you have to replace the ball joint just because you have a perished dust cover ?

Hi mate. I have a spare brand new Veilside V3 Roadster Rear Wing available. I have one fitted to my Track Roadster and the fit is perfect. The V3 may be a bit to aggressive for you compared to what you have been looking at but I think that they look great. If interested then let me know. Cheers, Alex.

I run Clubsport and the front mounts are not compatible with V3. Nissan do have the rear top mounts on there system and they are available ex. stock. I also have a set of preowned front and rear stock mounts in the garage but if I remember correctly they are still on the stock shocks. I will have a look tomoz.

Adam, You have pm. Alex.

Diaried :yahoo: What is the full itinerary Stew.? Is it a full holiday week, on the canals and all that, or just a weekend event. Any route ideas yet.? C'mon Cara, you know you want to, as it is on your doorstep as it is mine.

This is far to high if you have a new fully charged battery. As I advised previously, Get Your Charging Rate Checked to avoid further unnecessory expence. What should we be seeing Alex? Sorry guys, was reading this thread wrong. 13.6 - 14.4 is the normal charging rate that should be showing.

Not the Roadster...........

This is far to high if you have a new fully charged battery. As I advised previously, Get Your Charging Rate Checked to avoid further unnecessory expence.

I'm open Stan.

If you want to stop the washer pump from working then simply unplug the wiring block connector at the pump which is located at the headlamp washer water container behind the front bumper.

Alex, the HKS system that has been mentioned is the twin turbo set up and is the best manufactured stuff on the market and that is what I am running at the moment mate. The HKS supercharger kit is the Rotrex and I had that on a previous Z and it worked well with considerable more torque than the ATI Procharger C2 set up that I had on another Z. You will not have temperature issues with the supercharger but you will have with a big power T T set up. (Serious heat soak) Air to air is the way to go IMHO. Superchargers will not produce the boost to give power over 400. If you go supercharger now and find that you want more power then you will have to go T T at a later date with internals etc etc etc etc etc etc. On both types of install proper mapping is key. Cheers, Alex.

I'd pick up APS though. It's by far the most complete and best quality kit out atm. Complete.....Possibly Best Quality Kit.....

Model dependant there is generally no fan switch fitted to the radiator. Your problem will probably be electrical. There are 3 coolant fan relays, have you checked them ? Also, check for continuity, short to ground and short to power. If you do not have a meter or lacking in know how then simply unplug the 4 harness connectors at and around the fan area and make good connections, especially the earth. And also run a separate power and earth to the fans to check fan operation but it is highly unlikely that you will have a fan failure. Alex.

Only maybe worth considering doing if engine out, otherwise very fiddly job which would take you the best part of a day and 10 skinned knuckles later. As stated previoously, header replacement on its own will give you no noticable gains, trust me If still not convinced, just get a dyno run before and after.

6 Further sets arrived today 2 weeks ahead of schedule. Thank you Nissan. Two of these are pre paid orders so that leaves 4 sets available at the moment. If you are quick you could still have them delivered and on your car for the Christmas holidays. Same Price £240.00 delivered.

The Headers are expensive and the shipping is just stupid money and for what ???? You will definately not get any obvious power gains, so why waste your money !!!!

Also remember that the after replacing the ECU you will have to: (1): Perform initialization of NATS system and registration of all NATS ignition key IDs. (2): Perform Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning. (3): Perform Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning. (4): Perform Idle Air Volume Learning: All the above are very straight forward and quite simple to administer. Alex.

Looks like you may be overcharging mate. Overcharging causes excess heat at the battery resulting in battery failure. Get your charging rate checked to be on the safe side. Nissan should have done this at the same time as battery testing and subsequent battery replacement. Alex.

Hi Dan and thanks for the pm. Okay, I am asumming that your Roadster is U.K and not JDM. If your car was a coupe then you would have few fitment issues but the U.K. Roadster undercarriage is so different from the US and JDM so there are fitment issues with the Roadster. I do not know if all chassis bracing manufacturers follow the same template but my experiences are with the fitment of USA GT Spec braces and a U.K Roadster. Door Hinge Braces.....They require substantial modification to the front fixing points and the removal of the rear vertical panel which is fitted to the inside of the wing. The hardware supplied does not work so alternative bolts, washers, spacers are required. Front Tie Bar......No fitment issues, but beware there are different types depending on the size of your sump pan. 4 point mid brace.......Again fitment issues as the U.K Roadster already has a bracing plate fitted which you can not remove so you have to fit the mid brace over the factory brace, again different hardware required. Rear Lateral Brace......From memory no major fitment issues. Rear Lower Tie......More fitment issues especially if you have the rear diff. with the solid "plug" on the bottom. Also if you are running excessive neg camber then you will have to elongate the fixing slots on the brace. I am running 600 bhp on my Roadster so I really do feel the benefit of the bracing but I doubt very much in deed if any benefits would be obvious on a stock Z. Suspension and brakes really should be your first upgrades, even a set of Eibach springs would be beneficial and some Ferodo DS 2500 into your Brembos would work. Hope the above helps. Cheers, Alex.

Very easy to change mate. 1 small bolt on each and a wiring connector to unplug. Alex.

Unless you have to adjust the air gap.

Had a think about this and you should really follow the procedure for checking out the CPS before condemning them. The procedures are fairly straighforward to determine if they are faulty. The CPS works as follows: The camshaft position sensor senses the retraction with intake valve camshaft to identify a particular cylinder. The camshaft position sensor senses the piston position. When the crankshaft position sensor system becomes inoperative, the camshaft position sensor provides various controls of engine parts instead, utilizing timing of cylinder identification signals. The sensor consists of a permanent magnet and Hall IC. When engine is running, the high and low parts of the teeth cause the gap with the sensor to change. The changing gap causes the magnetic field near the sensor to change. Due to the changing magnetic field, the voltage from the sensor changes. Cheers, Alex

Chains definately will not stretch....END OF..... If you require cam position sensors, then I have numerous spare ones. Let me know. Cheers, Alex.

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