ZMANALEX

I will do it for you right now.

+ 1 ^^ Watch that you don't cook the battery if your charger does not have an automatic cut off.

Dunno what happened there,

From me if you wish But you will require a remap

From me if you wish But you will require a remap

From me if you wish But you will require a remap

Yes, to much to go wrong. If you want to achieve the claimed benefits then dispose of your fly by and replace the TB and fit a cable. Works very well for me.

Was my very first meaningful upgrade many years ago. Best springs on the market. You should have no issues with normal size humps.

Fresh cold oil = higher oil pressure.... Also depends on what make of oil filter you used, that is if you changed it which I hope you did

In all honesty Steve you really have nothing to worry about with a NA car and the heat soak that you are generating will pale into significance compared to what I experience. You will only be able to do about 10 - 15 laps depending on what track you are on before your brakes and tyres start to go off anyway. That really is the most you should be doing in any one session as your concentration levels will also start to drop off. A cool down lap and then ten minutes back in the pit lane and you will be good to go again. If your track day consists of a 4 hour open pit lane then you will find that you will have ample track time. Alex.

Must be something in the air or the water over there as the Nismo cap, stat and Koyo rad works well over here with no issues. Not any huge differences to be had granted, but every little helps as every degree is a prisoner. I also experienced a reduction in engine bay heat soak with my fans coming on earlier and switching off later as cold air was sucked into the engine bay for a longer period. Channeling all the cold air to and from the rad directly into the engine bay by filling in the sides also helped, as did a proper vented/scooped bonnet allowing cold air in and hot air out. Also removing some of the plastic at the bulkhead also helped by creating a larger gap to allow the hot air out or if you are feeling flush then a raised Du Luck bonnet works very well. Serious modification of the front bumper also helps, but that is a story for an other day Normally, you should not experience heat soak or running hot issues with a na car. I run 600 bhp and it is a constant battle keeping the car cool on serious track days and I am continually making subtle changes to try and improve the situation but I am slowly getting there. Mapped to run a bit more fuel through on the overrun also helps quite a bit by helping to keep the Turbos cooler. I could go on forever but I don't want to give all my secrets away Alex.

There are quite a few mods that you can do to reduce heat soak in the engine bay. You could be a plumber for the day and repipe the water works and also alter the air flow to and from the engine bay. I am swapping out my KOYO R2577 Race Radiator within the next couple of weeks and replacing it with a bespoke home made one. If I dont fit it to the other car then you are welcome to it if you decide to go down that route. I assume you are running Nismo cap and race stat. Alex.

Pish

Sorry double post, was supposed to be an edit Steve, as discused with you previously the only way that I was able to change the settings to achieve fans kicking in earlier and switching off later was with a remap. Alex.

Steve, as discussed with you previously the only way that I was able to change the settings to achieve fans kicking in earlier and switching off later was with a remap. Alex.

If it was truly only putting out 250 at the fly you would definately know.

I am no mechanical expert but it could be a number of things but Lagunas have been known to overfuel from cold causing flooding and therefore plug contamination would cause all your aforementioned symptoms. The higher revs and temperatures would burn off the unburnt fuel. Could be any thing tho. Alex.

Had two sets of the Blue and got the lugs mixed up just a bit. Both Blue sets are now sold. You know who you are and both have been shipped this morning. These lugs are absolutely brilliant. I run them on my track Roadster and they do not expand with the extreme temperatures. They are extra long but not to long and the knurled bit on the end gives you a superb feel enabling great finger grip when removing and refitting. They are extremely strong yet are as light as a feather helping reduce even more unsprung weight. I am not sure exactly what the official intended use is for the holes but I use it as an extra securing device to stop the lugs rattling loose. By feeding a length of tying wire through all the holes, I can then see that none off the lugs have got loose by just glancing at the lugs saving me the constant concern of physically checking the torque. The locking lug has a small protruding keyway down one side of the hex which marries with the lug socket. The one socket is used for all the 20 lugs in the set. Techie stuff for a set of lug nuts Only one red set left. Alex.

How did I know that you would be the first to reply Stew Yeah, the good old Fordies, mans best friend.

Like this: Agree, strange that this wiring issue as described should cause a drain, but as long as it is fixed and the problem does not reappear then hey ho. Alex.

Chris, looking good mate and great to have another Roadster on board

Got these available. £68 + £12 shipping. Cheers, Alex.

That sounds a bit ominous Have you been talking to my friend from Sweden ?