ZMANALEX

This area here to be repaired to take the rear stay. A very easy repair to a competent fabricator/welder. Even easier with a rust free OEM repair section.

That area where the rear stay fixes can easily be repaired either by fabricating and welding up or by welding in a repair section which I have in stock at the minute for both sides.

Just remove it, not required, and should not be an MOT failure either. Looking at your images it should just fall off. Rust free "W" bracing and rear stay end brackets is all that you require.

As Coz has said it will definitely be the valve cover oil seals which have failed which is a very common fault. There are two types of covers. 350Z VQ35 DE and also the HR Please find below links to both types. Both are in stock and good to go same/next day Just drop me a message if I can help further. https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/123191-for-sale-new-rockercam-cover-assemblies-vq35de/ https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/123327-for-sale-new-rockercam-cover-assemblies-350z-hr/

Scrap value is extremely generous, however I would advise you to hold on to them for various reasons including potential MOT emission issues etc. etc.

Preowned straight hinges in stock if required:

PM received and replied to:

unfortunately I can not help with the screen or roof due to shipping issues with these parts I am afraid. However the bonnet hinges, bearings and rod ends should not be a problem. https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/126954-for-sale-350z-front-wheel-bearing-assembly/ https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/126958-for-sale-350z-rear-wheel-bearing-assembly-carrier/ https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/126956-for-sale-350z-rear-wheel-bearing-assembly/ Just drop me a PM if I can help further, Alex.

to the forum and good luck with your project. If you require any parts or mechanical/technical advise then just give me a shout. Enjoy the Pod on Sunday:

PM on its way mate.

Yes, surprisingly still for sale. Plus postage, but it will not be expensive for UK mainland, depending on post code.

Most garages have induction heating which makes very light work of seized bolts/nuts.

Jack up car. Remove wheel Remove lower shock bolt Remove 2 x top shock nuts. Swop over top mount. Fit new shock. Reverse procedure as above. Probably 15 mins per side with the right tools.

If you have not replaced the front oxygen sensors then I would suggest that you do that, or at the very least get them tested, cleaning would have no effect. Note that as your car is a JDM it will be narrowband. Also I have found that aftermarket cam sensors is not a good plan, and I only fit genuine OEM.

I really do like this:

You say it randomly stops running. Does that mean that the car stops running whilst you are driving along the road? Or does it mean that it intermittently does not start? If the latter, when hot or cold or both?

Not enough detail/information in your post. However as a DIY process of elimination you should start by fitting a new battery.

PM on its way:

I have had no problems bleeding with an RJM clutch pedal. Try bleeding following the procedure below: if this still does not work, I have OEM clutch pedal assemblies in stock and are good to go same/next day. CAUTION: Monitor fluid level in the reservoir tank to make sure it does not empty. Do not spill clutch fluid onto painted surfaces. If it spills, wipe up immediately and wash the affected area with water. Bleed the operating cylinder. 1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir tank with new clutch fluid. 2. Connect a transparent vinyl hose to the air bleeder. 3. Depress the clutch pedal quickly and fully a few times and hold it. 4. With clutch pedal depressed, open air bleeder. 5. Close air bleeder. 6. Release clutch pedal and wait for 5 seconds. 7. Repeat steps 3 to 6 until no bubbles can be observed in the brake fluid. Air bleeder: : 5.9 - 9.8 N·m (0.61 - 0.99 kg-m, 53 - 86 in-lb)

The issue certainly sounds like a hydraulic problem and not mechanical. Are you still running a CSC or have you the CSC delete kit fitted? Are you running the RJM pedal system? Not sure what you mean by this: "What also makes diagnoses slightly harder is that I have the RJM Clutch Assembly Kit fitted to the car (and I stupidly threw away the OEM pedal kit) so bleeding it can be even more difficult than usual."

Best to buy an exhaust that fits straight out the box, however no drama in heating and bending to solve the interference issue.

Just your standard front bumper fixing. 100s in stock.

Well done, looks like a factory fit.

Very easy install, probably a 3. However bleeding the coolant system can be a bit tricky and could be a challenge for you, so that could be an 8 for you, best to follow the factory manual for the bleeding and you will eventually get there.