ZMANALEX

The VQ35DE VLSD is easy to weld but as has been said the diff will have to be removed. Also buying a spare diff as has been said, is the way to go to avoid downtime and also to provides a spare VLSD when you want to revert back to stock. Preowned diff units are in stock if required. Just drop me a DM if I can help you further,

You got lucky:

I have one in stock at the minute. £175.00 delivered to your door. Let me know if you want it and I will send over shipping and payment options by DM.

What year and model is your 350?

Plenty in stock which one are you actually after?

It does make a difference to the brake pads, however the handbrake parts and configuration are the same.

I can't help you with your squeaky bed I am afraid, however the singular click will be the rear pads moving in the caliper. I would get the rear wheels off and make sure that all the pad retaining pins are in situ. Also when the wheels are off double check that the dust covers have no interference issues and that no foreign bodies have got caught up in the dust cover aperture or in the tyre thread. Doesn't sound like wheel bearing but here if you require them. https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/126956-for-sale-350z-rear-wheel-bearing-assembly/ https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/126958-for-sale-350z-rear-wheel-bearing-assembly-carrier/

In that case as a matter of course, If I was in this situation I would ignore every thing that the previous owner has stated and start with a clean canvas. Back to basics, being methodical and process of elimination is the way forward if you want to fix yourself. You might get lucky or you can trailer up to HD. Good Luck.

So just to be clear, it was the previous owner that had replaced the sensors, plugs, coils and MAF and wiring and not yourself? Horsham are close to you, get it booked in with them for a diagnostics, quotation and fix.

A member on here recently had a broken cam shaft, just saying, but plenty cams in stock if required. Also check that you have not mixed up the coil wires as it is very easy to mix up cyls 4 & 6 Where are you based?

Okay, so you inherited the car with the non start problem??? If the gearbox has been out for a clutch/flywheel change and the new fly has not been fitted in the exact correct position then this would give you a difficult or non start issue. The fly has pick up points which are triggered by the crank sensor. You will have to get the timing checked by a competent technician who knows there way around a 350Z using the correct diagnostic equipment. Other wise you will have to pull the box and check the flywheel position. The above is only an informed guess as it could be one of many faults causing this issue, some very cheap to fix and others not so.

I can not get any audio from your video. However, I would try a crank position sensor. Have you had the gearbox out recently?

5W 40 is more suitable for older high mileage cars so is ideal for your car. A word of caution, aluminium magnetic sump plugs tend to snap so best to avoid especially if your pride and joy is entrusted to a heavy handed apprentice mechanic. Oil Viscosity explained here: https://www.firestonecompleteautocare.com/blog/oil-change/engine-oil-viscosity/

I am also an HKS fanboy, however, common sense also prevails. I see no real benefit in using an HKS oil filter over a Genuine Stock Nissan OEM oil filter at half the price of HKS. Also HKS do not make there own oil and it will simply be some other stuff rebranded. Another disappointing previous example was that HKS were selling "HKS" braided brake lines which turned to be simply HEL lines which were rebranded HKS, sad days I am afraid. Most HKS products are top notch, however, above are a few examples which have dropped through the cracks. Like most top branded products if you go the HKS route then you will have to pay the HKS tax. Regarding the oil viscosity, top branded 5W 40 will be fine for your 86k 350Z.

If the flange faces are all flush and you fit proper new gaskets then you should not require any paste. and providing the pipes which are clamped are uniformed and clean, then you should not have any leaks, Pretty basic stuff actually. Never had a fitment issue with Scorpion, as decent quality compared to others.

to the forum, sounds like you have an exciting plan.

PM on its way mate:

Black shift knobs are in stock: PM on its way.

I have access to Consult 3, however I am 600 miles away in Highland Scotland. There are a few Nissan Indys down South with Consult, however I doubt if any of them would thank me for sending you there way. Garages are turning you away for a very good reason as they are in this business to make money and they tend to shy away from the potential time consuming "complex" stuff I am afraid.

As above, ^^^ easy to fit, just take your time and be methodical. I have sold hundreds of these kits and most go DIY. I can send you over the pages from the Nissan Workshop Manual which will include the full tear down and reassembly procedures. I do these in 2 hours, however it will probably take you 4 hours if first time.

Good to have you back Craig:

PM received and replied to. In stock and good to go same/next day.

I would go sway bars first and my choice would be Eibach. Regarding Coil Overs are you planning on true coil overs all round or just coil overs on the front and stand alone shocks/springs on the rear like you have at present.

I will ask again. Have you pulled the fuses from the IPDM unit?

You are looking for a reading of 50 milliamps or less, any more and you will have a parasitic drain. Pulling the fuses methodically one by one will identify the demon. Did you pull the fuses from the IPDM unit?