fatalus

Why didnt you go with Falkens? Much cheaper and very nice tyres! About the Goodyear F1 Asymmetric, they are a brand new model which has received awesome critics. Too bad they don't make them for the stock front wheel dimensions..

I agree with you garry. A monoblock amp and a new sub + box preferably in the stock location is next in my plans. I can also add that now that the sub is almost non-existent in the sound picture, even basswise the system is awesomely better. The front speakers that run full range now more than make up for the low sub volume. I would just like to experiment by trying to raise the bose sub volume, see if it can merge with the rest of the system before I upgrade it. And you are also right, the installation of a new sub+amp will be easy considering the JL amp has pre-amp outputs which can be directly connected to my next sub amp. So no fuss with cables.. I could also say now with 100% certainty that the stock amplifier is completely rubbish. It is extremely powerless and the crossovering that it does is S-H-I-T! So for everyone that considers upgrading, this is the first thing that must be bypassed!!

Actually I meant it like that... The cables that used to transfer the pre-amp signal from headunit to the Bose amp were cut and they were connected to the speaker output of the JL amp , thus making them transfer speaker signal instead! It was the only way to avoid putting new speakers cables all over.

I would like to share my experience with upgrading my Bose system keeping the Bose headunit though. First of all I decided to upgrade the front speakers. I bought JL audio VR 650 components which fit fine in the stock tweeter location and with help of spacers in the stock door pods. Fairly neat install but the result was not so good as far as sound quality is concerned. Soundwise there was an improvement in quality, though tweeters sounded little harsh and mids muffled, but it was more than obvious that the Bose amp lacked even the slightest power to drive these speakers, which even made them sound less loud than the trashy Bose speakers. So I bought a JL audio G2250 amp to drive the front speakers. The installation was performed by a professional but I dont think he would make it without my instructions and the service manual! I put the amp in the passenger glove box and routed RCAs direct from the Bose headunit. The problem was with the speaker wires. it was impossible to locate them in the wire harnesses in the car, so the only option was to connect the pre-amp wires that leave the headunit with the speaker outputs of the JL amplifier. Then we had to go to the rear hatch and ,after taking out the whole trunk to locate the bose amp, bridge the pre-amp wires that come to the bose amp with the speaker cables that leave the bose amp! Everything else went as planned and the job was done rather quickly. As for the sound result...one word....AMAZING improvement compared to both the stock system and the speaker-only upgrade!! Amazing clarity, no harshness at all from the tweeters and fantastic detail! The only problem that i noticed is that the Bose subwoofer now almost works less than 50% of its previous power. I attribute this to the loss of pre-amped signal from the front speakers which does not reach the bose amp now, and to the fact that the rear speaker signal which is the only that reaches the bose amp now, is faded by -3,-4 in favor of the front. Anyway the end result even with the sub working low is zillion times better than before even bass-wise!!! I wonder if it would help if I connected and "copied" the pre-amp rear channel signal to the front pre-amp inputs of the bose amp as well. Any ideas on these or will I have to proceed and buy a sub amp and even a new sub in the near future?

Don't forget the customs fees..

RX-8 is an awesome with hell of a room for 4 passengers. Driver 1.80m and me (1.91m) behind him fit very easily! The only drawback seems to be its outrageous consumption..

Do you think it is best to use the dynamat in the front door speakers as shown in the dynamat kit box, around the speaker, or to put a piece of it on the panel back behind the speaker?

Here is also a review of the gadget!! http://www.gadgetvenue.com/kat-matrix-g ... -06031549/

The worst case scenario is to be forced to use a Line converter according to the specialist shop, although I am optimistic that it will work as it is. In JL audio site they specifically mention BOSE OEM systems that mostly benefit from these balanced inputs. I will keep u informed though about the process of the installation!

The JL audio amp has differential balanced inputs that are supposed to accept any type of signal, so I guess I will not even need an adapter for this. I think my biggest problem will be finding the way to do the wiring. Anyone who has done it maybe?? I have already ordered a large piece of Dynamat to put behind the sub and also behind the door speakers so I hope it will do some good

Just finished installing a pair of component JL Audio VR speakers front, but I have the feeling that the crappy BOSE amplifier is not feeding them enough. Decided to get one JL Audio G2250 amplifier for the front speakers to stick under the passenger seat. Everything is understood concerning the power wires, but I have some questions about the speakers and HU wiring with my new amp. I need to bypass the BOSE amp for the front speakers but how do I connect the new amp to the pre-amp signal of the BOSE HU? Where do the cables have to pass through and where do they connect with the HU? Also I want to use the existing speaker wire installation. Where do I connect the speaker-outs of the amps with the existing speaker wires?

You mean in front of the subwoofer cone and just behind the grilles(blocking the sub out of sight) or on the area of the plastic panel around the grill? And is one piece of dynamat enough for this area or even the enclosure behind the sub?

I didnt quite get that H5, where exactly do you put these small pieces of dynamat? Sounds a good and cheaper alternative to dressing the whole area behind the sub with dynamat..

Damn.....you ruined the whole mystery

Finally I have decided to go for the JL audio VR650-CSi speakers which sound more than just good. I think they should fit nicely, though my only concern is the fact that they are 4 ohm speakers instead of 2 ohm that the Bose speakers are. Would that cause any problem?

Chris, can you describe what you used and how you did it? Pictures would be highly preferred

Cargo net is the best thing to keep relative small objects from moving. Highly recommended and cheap!!

But are there any Focal component ones (tweeter+ separate woofer) that can fit as they are ? And do they have to be 2ohm speakers or even 4 ohm speakers can work?

I am thinking of changing the crappy front speakers with some quality ones, keeping the Bose unit and stock amp. Anyone have some suggestions without very difficult installation? I have read someplace that the Infinity Kappa 60.7CS fit rather well and sound nice. Any experiences ??

I just wish Sweden was a little bit closer to Wales...I would love to come..

They didnt even run a simple ECU diagnostic to see what went wrong? That sounds weird...

Prettyyyyyyyy......welcome and get used to driving with the windows open..That exhaust noise is hillarious!!!!

In fact it will cost more than 4-5000 euros!!. It involves door and rear fender replacement and painting of the whole left side including the rear bumper which got some scratches...and of course his insurance will pay for everything! Just for you to know and avoid in any case any minor bump.. It is COSTLY!!!!!

It is just that I am little worried about cutting out half rear part of the car to replace the rear fender. Not as simple as replacing a door as far as i can tell....

A sad day for my Z today..an idiot German tried to unpark his car without even looking backwards and the result is this....How stupid can a man can be? And the worst...he just got a mnor scratch in his rear bumper!!! At least he was kind enough to settle everything... Maybe my yelling at him made him more "motivated" towards it Anyway, what do you say it is the best for it being repaired? Change the rear fender alltogether (which involves cutting it out) or should I try have it repaired by hand if possible?