Ekona

Very nice fella!

I totally agree with you, which is why it would've been nice to know what RS did after they were presented with the facts. If they'd have refunded everything and chucked in a free P3 then you'd look on them far more favourably than if they'd have told the OP to get lost as it was no longer their problem. I'd deal with the first company, but steer well clear of the second. No-one is perfect 100% of the time, and it's how they deal with the mistakes that makes the difference.

If you don't want to hear people's opinions, perhaps it's best if you don't post stuff on the Internet? I have read the post thanks, and at no point have you actually said that you contacted RS after you had the problems with the exhaust fitting sorted by another mechanic. If you don't tell him where he was wrong, what do you expect him to do about it? If nothing else you can rant at the person who's fault it actually was rather than taking your venom out here. If you wanted more runs on the dyno, why did you not say so at the time?

I'd at least have the courtesy to ring them and give them a chance to make it right, rather than bad mouth them on open forum. If they don't post here that's up to them, certainly doesn't imply anything good or bad about them.

And what did they say when you contacted them about this before posting this? Apology? Money back? Offer of something to make up for the inconvenience?

Oh dear lord. :lol: Do you have the matching hat, t-shirt, trousers, shoes and pants too?!

Please tell me that's not your arm...

I want the Lingenfelter one, that's got to be an incredible drive.

Agreed. Soft pedal is overheating fluid, pads or rotors (usually all three, leading to the fluid boiling). Just doing the pads will mean you create more heat as they're more aggressive, making your problems worse. The cheapest thing you can do to start is the fluid for Motul and do the lines as well. Next step is pads and discs as a combination.

8 years for a battery is really good going!

Noooo, needs to be either yellow or black!

DO WANT

Are the Z06's really £35K now?!

+100 Man Points

How is that a problem? I thought that NIssan had stopped all that silly warranty-void-if-TCS-off stuff on the cars now?

Sorry, I guess my post didn't come across very well. I don't think they're bad at all: I think there's bits of them I don't like, but then that's the same for every car. Our long-term plan is to replace my 911 with a 350Z and swap Jo's Scooby out for a GTR in a couple of years time, so assuming that comes to fruition then I'll be more than happy to drive one. That's her car though, and I just can't get past the Lego-brick looks (and that's coming from a VXR220 owner!) and the poor quality materials inside. They also don't feel as superquick as the figures imply for some reason, or at least the MY09 cars didn't. I guess having 1800kg to move can do that, and I'm finding myself preferring stuff that's lighter weight to behemoths with monster power. Never having owned either I suspect this next comment is going to seem a bit odd, but I suspect that owning a GTR will never give you the same buzz that you get from starting up the Aston or Ferrari and popping down to the shops. Much, much quicker than either, but less of an event which is what I'd want.

There's nothing to hit at all, apart from those plasticky 'kerbs' which won't do anything apart from perhaps scuff a bumper if you're being really careless. It all happens at 20mph, so there's no way you're going to do serious damage. Far more chance of being hit by a numpty driver on the roads every single day.

None of those. Either a 355 if I could stomach the bills and find one with an interior that didn't look like it was put together by a work experience boy on a Friday afternoon, or a 997 C2S. No way is a GTR better than most of those cars on the list, unless you define better as being able to have a pissing contest with numbers in the pub.

You're kidding? F*ckers.

I used to use Endless brake fluid (same stuff some teams use in F1), and the PF front discs with the 01 compound pads and the Z-compound pads on the rear. Discs were left stock on the back of the car IIRC. Also Goodridge lines were installed. I had the fat arse roadster too, and I didn't get ANY brake fade at all on track with that setup, even after some extended sessions. Granted, my driving style is very easy on the brakes, but even so it's a setup I will go for again when I finally get 350Z no.2. Not cheap, but it was the best way to guarantee myself a brake setup that would last.

I saw them running on that track when I was up there week before last, looked amazing fun and I was a tad jealous, despite being on the proper circuit myself! I'd love to spend a weekend there, one day on the drift track and one on the circuit.

Remove all the bits about "should be monthly. but 3-6 is okay": Stick with what the HC says or they'll just get lazier and 3-6mths becomes 6-12mths. Static CEL = okay to carry on if car feels okay, flashing CEL = stop immediately.

And your point is? You do realise that LEJOG is doable in the one day without speeding, don't you? And why do you think I go to the IoM where there are plenty of twisty derestricted roads?

Don't worry, you won't be the only one there not in a Zed!

Luckily mrs glrnet didn't Top marks to her and you, clearly you've got her well-trained mate