Ekona

Just take it back. Don't faff and take it somewhere else, it's a complete waste of time. Straight back to the dealers you go, my friend.

Breadvan!

IIRC you were quite handy at not having the car settled at all at Bedford that one time... It's a good point though, it might actually be the rear wheels locking up at high revs as much as aggressive gas pedal.

How I envy you, searching for Pork is my favourite hobby

The bigger the capacity the thinner the cylinder wall, so the larger engine cars are more likely to be prone to bore scoring than the early cars. The early cars were also sadly more likely to suffer IMS failure, hence the reason for getting a 100k+ one as if it's not gone by that time then it's very unlikely ever to. The 996 only weighed about 1300kg, so with 300bhp even the 3.4L is still going to be a brisk drive when you want it to be.

That's all you need mate, or at least that's all I'd do. RMS will only be a weepy leak that you can sort at the next clutch change, IMS you've no way of telling without stripping the engine down (so no idea what they were on about there), and the bore scoring you can easy check with the boroscope. Any signs then walk away, if there's nothing then you're good to go

I think they're a brilliant invention. Whenever I see a car with them on, I know that person can't drive for toffee so I make a conscientious effort to park my own car as far away as possible Without them, how else would you know? Genius idea.

Nothing 'wrong' with hovering above the brakes as such (indeed, I do it occasionally if I feel like I've misjudged a corner with excessive entry speed or it suddenly tightens), it's how you intend to apply them that can cause the issues. Even the best TCS in the world isn't going to save you if you stamp on them mid-corner. Not that you've said you do/would, of course! On the odd occasion when you get it wrong, hovering and feathering the brakes is fine. If you're doing it every single time though, then that's where you're definitely going to have to change that habit. Just another skill to learn when driving, all part of the fun

Maybe, but more fool them. Never buy a car based on mileage, not when it's over ten years old too. You may well limit your market, but don't forget you're buying cheap and selling cheap, so as long as long as you've looked after it then there'll be plenty of buyers out there if it's a sensible colour combo i.e. not green and sand!

Don't think of it as using less gas, it's more about being progressive with it. Don't slam it down, feed it in slowly and smoothly. Sounds to me like you need to work on your observation, as the road itself will give you many clues as to what speed to enter a corner which in turn tells you what gear. It's actually better on roads you don't know, as then you don't suffer from over confidence and then find a bus parked in the middle of what you thought was a 50mph corner. Gear selection is determined by speed, so on a corner that's the entry speed not the exit one (for 99% of road driving). If you enter at 30mph then 2nd would be fine if you're on a blat, so you can prepare for that easy enough. Brakes first, then gear selection, then balance throttle to settle the car, and only then would you start turning the wheel.

I caved and bought it on PC. It's quite relaxing to play, but it reminds me of Spore in that it promised unlimited freedom but ultimately it still has limits. It's enjoyable enough though, despite graphics that are bland but colourful, and sound that is non existent. Depends on what you want from a game really, it's definitely a 6 or 7 rather than a 9 or 10.

You're spinning the wheels, or at least trying to. Too much throttle when conditions don't allow it is the cause mate, just be a little less keen on the gas pedal Ironically turning the TCS off will probably solve it, as the wheels will only slip for a fraction before finding grip again. It's why I used to turn it off on my old 350 (and do on the 645), as I could modulate the pedal myself smoother than having the damn ECU cut power or brake a wheel.

I wouldn't have it either, I have to say.

You might want to rephrase that, pyro

You know me matey, always look on the bright side of life and all that

Because people are idiots. It's not even like it was a good car back then, much less today. They're chancing their arm on the fact it wears an RS badge, nothing more.

So sorry to hear about your cat dude, I know that pain only too well Time to get another one? Pets make the best company, and they'll be happy to have your love

Magnet. As in, get one.

Are you saying you had no idea what the oil level is/was, so just kept chucking oil in?! Too much oil is worse than not enough in most cases. By the way, by the time the low oil light comes on your engine has suffered damage of some kind, so I'd be looking for a replacement or repair of your sooner rather than later.

Agreed. Tapatalk is now redundant, given how far web design for mobiles and screen displays have come on in the last five years.

M96/97 engine failure is nowhere near as common as you might think. Get an early car with plenty of miles on, then have a boroscope check done. Plenty of miles means that if the IMS hasn't gone by now then it's very unlikely to, and if the boroscope check doesn't show any scoring then you're safe there too. I'd be looking for a decent 3.4 with over 100k on the clock, if it were my money. Leaves plenty of cash to add a good exhaust, stereo and wheels, which would then leave you with an eminently driveable and pure car.

XKR is a BIG car too! TTRS is a monster, we're talking GT-R quick. Not massively involving, but entertaining as hell.

Yup!

No, the ignition key.

Use CHAPS, not BACS. Sure it costs a couple of quid, but it's nothing really and no upper limit.