Ekona

What's the best pressures for these tires? I don't rate them at all, as soon as they have worn out the better *tyres On stock tyres, use the stock pressures as indicated in the manual or on the info label inside the door jam (I assume the 370ZN has one there). Although if you don't like the tyres then change them anyway, no need to wait for them to wear out first as you're only ruining your usage of something you paid thousands of pounds for. Personally I find the 050As to be excellent, close to the PS2 in terms of quality, but each to their own. A set of MPS4S would be the best upgrade for you if you do decide to bin the current tyres.

That sucks dude, hope you feel better soon

I miss potatoes Lost 3lb last week, despite being a bit cheeky with a kebab and a meal out with a ginormous lamb shank. Nearly into the 12st zone now!

Stock pressures. And Potenza isn't what you're after in terms of tyre type, it's the 050A bit after that. Go and get an alignment done and then see how it feels.

That'll do for a start

Not like it's ten years old or anything...

I thought it was free for life if you'd signed up as a member before a certain date, but then they seem to be keen to squeeze every penny these days. I just tried to do an ad now and it said no cost, so looks like I'm still okay for at least one more.

Funnily enough I've been looking at the Blackstar stuff, any idea exactly which one it is he runs? Never been massively keen on Marshall tones, so I'm eager to try other stuff out. I was using a little 15w Egnater head and 1x12 cab on Saturday, which was lovely but a little limited with regards to an ultra clean sound. Smashing amounts of gain though. It's not quite the 60 on mine, but it's close to it with just a little more depth over the standard one. It's certainly got more low end for sure, but also I think it sounds like there's more working in the very higher frequencies too. I'd argue it's more of a bluesy tone than a strict metal one, but then that might just be my limited use of it with my own setup so far. Tell you what I do really like though, the satin neck. Soooooo much easier for zipping up and down for quick chord changes, never used one before and now I'm not sure I'll ever go back.

PH is free for me

You will be incredibly fortunate to find anyone willing to offer TF day cover any more. Pretty sure that Moris no longer offer it, none of the regular policies will cover you, so basically you're driving uninsured. Given the excessive cost of repairs to the track scenery (much less your car itself), I'd be very cautious in both choice of car to take and also how it was intended to be driven on the day. And don't forget that you might be fine, but the idiot behind might not be and then you'll have a fun time trying to claim from him...

*cough* AHEM *cough* Seriously, ping me some details, I'm still interested.

The right car with the right ad at the right price will sell. AT has the biggest viewer base by far, it's the definitive place to sell. That said, whilst I'd use it for general cars for sporty stuff I reckon PH is the easiest, plus it's free if you've been a member a long time. eBay I've never used to sell, but I have bought from there.

Trouble is that bonnet vents are only going to do so much, even assuming you get them in exactly the right place: you'd be better off focusing on the rad and the flow round the system itself. No different to a house in that respect. Bit of heat-reflective material here or insulation there does a bit, but a bloody great pump and bigger rads will do a lot more a lot quicker

Sounds like you just need a bigger rad to me, which you've now got. I'd be testing that thoroughly before cutting any holes

Coming from a different angle, why do you think you need more cooling for under bonnet temps?

Exactly right. However, the join where the windscreen meets the bonnet is the worst possible point to try and extract air, as all that flow that goes over the bonnet hits the base of the windscreen and creates a really high pressure zone.

Because the base of the windscreen is a high pressure area: You'd be forcing the hot air to stay in.

Oh god please don't do that lifting bonnet thing, chav central!

Without some very expensive air flow measuring/CFD stuff, you simply don't know: It'll be guesswork. You might get lucky, you might not.

That's possibly the coolest thing I've ever seen, superb!

Bought one! ESP LTD Snakebyte, in satin black. Chuff me, I thought car buying was hard! Great setup at Andertons, literally you grab a booth then just go and help yourself to the guitars you want to try, back and forth as long as you want. I spent over three hours playing various things including the Snakebyte, Epi Explorer, both T & HP Explorers, an X series Jackson, a Pro series Rhodes V Jackson, Gib Flying V, Gib SG, along with a Jaguar and US Strat just for tone comparison as I wasn't using my regular amp. To cut a long story short: The Epi was too weedy in this company The X Jackson way more fun and toneful than I expected but I'd want that shape in a Pro version which they don't do The V Jackson was really not for me at all The Gibson V was huge fun but I don't suit the shape I remember I don't like Strats at all, and the Jaguar wasn't as easy to run chords off on as my Mustang is. I actually preferred the T Explorer to the HP, as the tone was too bright on the fancy one for my taste plus the neck felt too big at the nut end, so it ended up a straight fight between the Snakebyte and the Explorer T. ESP was easier to move quickly up and down the neck due to the satin finish, slightly heavier at the head and not as comfortable to hold either sitting or standing. Tone was gritty and dirty, yet the clarity on the clean was gorgeous. Gibson was a much better all-rounder, with a tone that could go from classic rock right up to metal, and it felt so, so right just holding it. Not quite as hard hitting on the low end due to the pups being Gibson's own over the active HetSet (based on the 60/81s) EMGs on the ESP. If I had to choose one guitar to play forever, I'd have taken the Gibson. Lovely thing, so much more versatile, and I definitely prefer the shape of the body. However I already have guitars that can cover the brighter end of the rock spectrum, and I wanted something that would specialise in chugging away metal riffs all day long: That was the Snakebyte. It's raw, it's hard, it's crunchy and it's clear. Had a bit more of a play on my setup at home today and it's now got me wanting a proper valve amp to do it justice. Tried it back to back with my Mustang and it was clear that I made the right choice, as you could not get two more different tones. Very happy with it, despite it being bang-on the top end of my budget.

Well that escalated

Red calipers are standard on the S, it's the awful gold wheels that need to get a colour change!

Link works now. Sports steering wheel, fancy and rare option, nice!

HAI GUISE It would appear that my work has been done for me The actual link isn't opening for me right now so I'll be General with my comments but in short: 1. Inspection, inspection, inspection. Even if you don't cough up for a specialist inspection at about £300, for god sake at least get a local garage to do a boroscope inspection. If there's serious bore scoring, walk away. Minor marks are nothing to be worried about though. 2. If you're running 19"s, you'll want PASM unless you hate your spine. These cars are superb on standard suspension amid 18" wheels, much better than with the PASM and any wheel combo. Note this is for gen1 only, gen2 PASM is superb. 3. Assuming the bores are fine, the only other thing that will get you is the IMS going pop. Nowt you can do about this really, you could split the gearbox and engine then replace with new OR remove the internal dust shield which then allows the engine oil to lubricate the IMS bearing rather than it chewing itself to pieces. Either option should give you as good as peace of mind as you can get, and is what I would do should I buy an M96/97 engined car. Labour won't be cheap, if you can time it with a clutch change more the better! 4. Gen1 PCM 2.1 (sat nav) is f*cking dire. Don't worry if the car hadn't got it, you won't miss it! Gen1 Bose also gash, like it is on the 350. Neither applies to the gen2, where they're both excellent. 5. Risk of the engine exploding is about 5-10%. If it goes you're looking at a bill of about £3k-£8k, depending on how much you rebuild. Don't worry too much, but don't go in blind. This is why point number 1 is so important! 6. Enjoy the best sports coupe sensible money can buy. The Cayman is more than just numbers, it's about a pinsharp chassis and a delicate steering rack and a gloriously gutsy engine. That'll do. Always open for a PM discussion if you want.