Ekona

I’d say £6.5k is a very sensible number to aim for, pop it up at £6995 you’ll get that sooner rather than later I suspect.

How much would you take for it?

I did, briefly. Utter crap, as it will sound like you’re listening to a tape from the 1980’s (unsurprisingly). Do it properly and change the head unit out for something better, which isn’t hard. Even the cheapest Pioneer jobby will be a vast improvement.

You still need a new engine bud, preferably before it leaves you stranded somewhere.

What a bellend.

God bless MS and game pass and I don’t have to worry about buying games full price

Can’t stand the place either, way too much noise to signal ratio there for my taste. Haven’t bothered with bracing at all on mine but then it’s a road car, however if they do half the job they do on MR2s and 350s then they’re well worth having imho.

The mx5 seats are a bit crap, however I’ve used mine with a mk2 CG Lock since day one and that does rectify pretty much every complaint you could have with them. I’ve got a sparco sprint seat in the garage I keep threatening to install, but I love heated seats that little bit too much! Def get yourself an alignment, as it does transform the car as they’re very sensitive. I remember driving one when they first came out and hated it as it felt so numb, however mine with the fast road geo from Wheels In Motion is pinpoint sharp.

Normally a small pin or needle will clear the nozzle, but if that doesn’t work then it’s an easy job to replace and cheap for the parts too A sanity check for any kinks in the tubing isn’t a bad idea either.

Where have you got it advertised for sale? Tbh even as a Cat D at that price I’m amazed someone hasn’t sniffed around it.

I’m not looking under mine. If I can’t see it, it doesn’t exist. Much how I treat religion.

Tbh I’d be taking £15k for a Cat D car that’s six years old. Assuming no finance outstanding, that’s plenty to buy you something interesting. No chance of your back improving? Say, six months down the line so you can keep it? I’ve had spinal surgery too (although obvs there’s different ones!), so to an extent I know what you’re going through.

Anything is possible, but you’d be looking as custom kit which won’t be cheap. As much as you love the car, it will sell at the right price so I’d look at trying something else instead, even if you take a bit of a hit on yours to do it. Better driving something than nothing. Stick with your original plan and trade it in for something

I’ve got Covid atm so am hitting that reverse sleeping pattern nicely

Holy thread revival Batman! Yes, that’s the Moris I was referring to nine years ago.

Good fun, ain’t they? Still love mine even though it’s ugly as sim (to my eyes), but I didn’t buy it for the looks. Get some RC5+ pads on there and it’ll stop like it should as well, and I can definitely recommend a smaller stubby gear knob to make the shift even better: that was a day one mod for me and I’ve never felt the need for any further improvement at all.

Night and day, isn’t it?

That’s a bit of me. Still miss my old wildtrak.

Not really, anywhere and everywhere but that amount should be fairly obvious. Think you’re really going to have to drain the oil and find out exactly how much is in there, as too much oil is just as bad not enough.

Thicker oil won’t do you any good at all mate if it’s using that much, trust me if it’s as bad as you say it is then that’s terminal. Is it showing blue smoke as Alex mentioned?

Ouch, that’s an expensive lesson to learn, sorry dude

1L every 100mi is pretty much the sign of a dead engine, I’d get a new engine sooner rather than later. That’s an horrendous amount of oil to be using.

You’d think so, wouldn’t you? And yet that was the EXACT issue I suffered with for aaaaages on my old MR2 trackpig that took me forever to actually diagnose, hence mentioning it. Theoretically impossible I agree, but that was the cause. Drove me nuts! Fluids are weird things, hence why I got out of plumbing

Potentially there’s a seal gone somewhere, in the calliper itself. You won’t notice fluid loss, but the fluid passes the seal upon application so you get an initial soft pedal until you get the compression. I’d suggest redoing the calliper piston seals as it’s cheap, along with the obvious fluid change and bleed procedure, see how you get on. That being said, if it only does it once a year then maybe just bleed it to fix it and consider it an annual maintenance job.

Do yourself a huge favour and remove the clutch delay valve (CDV) as well Col, makes a massive improvement to the feel of the clutch. Very cheap and easy to do, transformed my 6er.