Ekona

If you're used to the car, yes. Mine used to kick in all the time when I first got the car, but now it's only vary rarely on the odd occasion that I even bother having it on. Having driven in this: I'd say that it makes no difference in seriously heavy rain whether the ESP is on or off. On ice or snow however I couldn't say, as I've never driven my car in those conditions.

Ah, if he just replaced the radiator of the chargecooler for a larger one that could well explain the decreased inlet temps. Isn't the Esprit 'box a Renault one? I seem to recall reading that somewhere when I was doing my research into buying one, which sadly never happened in the end as I saw sense and realised my pockets were sadly not bottomless. Money no object though, I'd have a Sport300 in a heartbeat.

That'd be great, cheers mate!

He's already spinning the wheels too much with the ESP on, I don't think turning it off is a great idea in this weather. Nathan has said as much already in his first post, and I would agree with him that that's definitely the safest course of action.

And no, it was this one:

A chargecooler is more efficient at removing the heat as it's a water-based system, working in a similar (well, identical) way to the radiator that keeps your engine cool. Water is a more efficient conductor of heat than air, and a CC setup is particularly better suited to hot climates as you won't suffer from heat soak anywhere near as much as an IC setup. Granted that's less of an issue with an SC car than a TT one, but it's still a better solution in most cases. The only downside is cost and space needed. Be interested to hear about your brother's setup on the Esprit, got any more details on what he did?

Which is why I'd go for an SC setup for track work and TT for the road, as you're never pushing as hard and the turbo would make lighter work of long straights. @Alex: Can I ask why you'd go for an intercooler over a chargecooler, given that the chargecooler will be hugely more effective at controlling temps? Is there some specific reason (like maybe lack of space to fit all the required pumps and barrels and bits), or just personal preference?

Utter rubbish. Chargecooler is always preferable to an intercooler, it's just more expensive and needs more space to install. Given your location, that's what I'd be going with, even if it means going with some custom fabrication. Tbh unless outright power is your thing, then the difference between how each setup will apply the power is more important than anything. Do you want something that feels like a larger NA engine, or something that gives you a proper kick in the back when it kicks in?

Really? I leave mine on all the time, but figured as how there's no light on the switch and the seat is stone cold when I get in the next day, it's definitely not on. Maybe it's different for earlier cars?

Tried running some Vaseline over the seals?

Might have to wait a bit longer any way, as it's been delayed until the summer. I have to admit, it's growing on me. I don't think it's enough of a departure from the 350 to warrant me ever seriously considering buying one, but it's not as hideous from the front anymore.

Alex, that's brilliant, thanks mate! I've thought about sorting the suspension, but due to the medical issues I've got with my back I really don't see that as an option at this point (or any in the near future, sadly) so that's not going to happen. For Door Hinge Braces, I assume you mean the fender braces? Front Tie Bar, I've got a stock UK sump, will that be okay? 4 point Mid Brace, is it worth it given the massive UK stock brace? Rear Lateral Brace, nice one I'll have that! Rear Lower Tie, doe this solid plug come standard on a 296 UK car? Camber will be stock if this matters. Brakes have been done to the most of my budget right now in the form of PF carbon metallic pads, discs will be done as and when they need changing which won't be for a good few 20K miles yet (have only done 17K on an MY06) but that's a guess based on 90% road/10% track use Thanks again Alex, I really appreciate the info.

Right, I get what you mean now. You're on about keeping the rolling radius of each corner the same as stock, which is essentially what we've been saying as well. I've never personally heard the difference between front RR and rear RR referred to as stagger, that's normally used for the differing widths, I think that's where the confusion crept in. You're quite right though, the most important thing is to keep the RR as close to stock as is possible, which is why when you go up in width you may need to drop a profile.

Hi Adam, I'm after pretty much anything that will stiffen up the chassis underneath. For now I'll be sticking with the stock sway bars and I have no need to adjust any camber on the wheels so that can all stay, but it's bits like the lower tie brace, lateral brace etc that are simple bolt-on bracing parts. I know I'm being about as clear as mud here, but I simply don't know what will actually fit on the roadster. @H5: Good idea, I might shoot him a PM.

So they sell off all the quality stuff to ensure they can keep selling the modern crap they produce these days? Marvellous.

But your stagger is 10mm different to stock, so it's not the same. 245 - 225 = 20 275 - 245 = 30

That's my card marked as a chav then

Is that the only reason you didn't go for the 45s? I run the PS2s as well but in stock sizes, by far the best tyre I've ever used if a little pricey.

Nice one, well worth mentioning.

Got a link? Can't find the damn press release on their site at all

Seen them before on other cars, personally I really like them

Top offer, great idea

But what width? Profile alone doesn't alter the height of the sidewall, only in conjunction with the width. For example, 255/40 would be better than 265/35 IYSWIM.

As long as you like them, that's all that matters matey! As for new tyres, it depends. They're not going to be cheap, but are they going to be cheaper than repair bills if you ditch your car and you know you could've done something about it? I know I bang on about this a bit on here, but the tyres are the only thing keeping you in contact with the road so personally I would fit the very best you can and then worry about the rest of the car. I've just seen too many posts on various car forums over the years where people have questioned why they should bother putting decent and/or correctly sized rubber on their car, and then post up a week later saying they've binned it. It never gets any less upsetting to read, and I'd hate that to happen to you matey, especially when you already don't feel comfortable with the car.

If you're sticking with 18s (and for driving purposes, I would) then go for 225/45/18 and 245/45/18. If you want to go for 19s for the looks (or even 20s) then I have no idea but I know many people on here will!