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Everything posted by Ekona
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Cheapest and easiet way to connect a ipod (help please)
Ekona replied to shire350Z's topic in I.C.E & Electronics
US-based again, and that amount could leap up in the next few hours. If you can't stump up to £50 for the Amazon one, then there's loads of other cheaper ones available in places like Comet, Currys et al. The Monster one is good because it charges your iPod as well, but you can get ones that just sit in the bottom of the iPod and use the internal battery for about £20. Personally I'd spend the extra and get something decent, but it's all a matter of budget and what you actually want. *EDIT* Sorry, that was in reply to your post on the previous page. I've never used the actual iTrip, but it's very popular so it should do what you want. -
Cheapest and easiet way to connect a ipod (help please)
Ekona replied to shire350Z's topic in I.C.E & Electronics
Bingo. Due to the differing frequencies used around the country (well, world too!), some frequencies are already taken in some areas. For example, you couldn't use 98.8FM in London as Radio One is a much stronger transmitter and will over power the iPod, but in Birmingham you'd be fine to use that signal* as Radio One doesn't use that frequency there. For France I just used the default settings, but over here the first preset is too close to Radio Two so I simply switch to a different one. Personally I wouldn't buy from that guy on eBay, too few transactions and he's in the US so you'd be screwed if anything went wrong. Better to buy from a UK supplier so you've got comeback, and preferably from a shop/big interweb company so you're doubly protected. How about Amazon, first place on a Google search? -
Cheapest and easiet way to connect a ipod (help please)
Ekona replied to shire350Z's topic in I.C.E & Electronics
The actual one I've got is this one, and IIRC I paid about £70 for it from Comet which is way over the top, but I did need one then and there so unfortunately I had to go for it. In all honesty it probably is worth close to that for what it does, and having the ability to jump to any of three different (user-programmable) presets is a godsend. It works great both in the UK and in Europe (did Le Mans with it last year) and with the stock aerial I've had no issues with it: On a smaller aerial I don't know if it'll be quite as reliable. I had it plugged into the cigar lighter socket between the seats and kept it inside the box by your elbow and it was always fine there; again I don't know how good it would be if run from the front of the car. Hope that's of some help to you. *EDIT* Quality is fine at max volume although I had to change the default equalizer setting on the iPod itself as it was either too bassy or too trebly, can't remember which now. Was easier to do that than muck about with the stereo bass/treble settings and worked a treat. -
Cheapest and easiet way to connect a ipod (help please)
Ekona replied to shire350Z's topic in I.C.E & Electronics
Don't bother with a cassette adaptor as the sound quality is absolutely shocking, and it will remind you why people stopped using cassettes in the first place! Best to stick with the iTrip (or similar, I use a Monster one myself) as that gives acceptable audio without too much hassle. -
..and if your car gets stolen they will remind you about those wheels and tell you where to go and you will then be way more out of pocket than £120 +millionty Don't be an idiot, either stump up the cash (which is relatively little given the cost of the wheels, car and insurance in the first place) or don't ever put the wheels on. Consider it a lesson in insurance management. *EDIT* Wait a minute, M3 wheels on a 318i?! That's doubled the value of the car, and you wonder why they want extra money to insure you on it?!
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Other way round Rich, the PS1s were the v pattern and the PS2s are like the RE040s. The PS2 is considered to be the better tyre and is all you can get now, confusingly though it's called the Pilot Sport just like the original They're what I'm running, and I'm eager to see the outcome of this thread.
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The bhp difference could be down to the slightly different way they measure (or used to, anyway) it over there, but not the lb/ft figure. To summarise, I haven't the foggiest!
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+1 US 93 is our 98, and their 90 is our 95 IIRC. Most common over there is 87 though, so 91/92 which is still popular in Eastern Europe.
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It's also worth noting that body shops don't use the original 'official' Nissan paint, not even if you go via a main dealer. There's two main companies in the paint world who make all the different colours anyone could ever want, but they're all based on their interpretation of the colour. When I had my tow eye cover done (under warranty) it looked a mile out so I spoke to the chap who did it and he showed me the two colour samples from the two companies, and although they should both have been spot-on one was clearly a slightly darker colour and had more flakes in than the one they used. He put the sample over different parts of the car and it was a very good match in the end, and it was simply the angle & differing materials on the car that made the colour look off. I'll have to get my bumper done sooner rather than later, and I'll go back to the same place again. Sollis Panelcraft in Harlow in case anyone's interested.
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Name and shame, unless you'd be happy with someone else on here getting spoken to/ripped off like that.
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That one's perfect, thanks! Looks like they come out a lot further than I first thought, which makes perfect sense from an exiting the vehicle point of view, but I think they'll make my life more awkward if fitted to mine. Shame really, as I know they're a bit Marmite but I quite like 'em.
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Depends where they were made, really. Lotuseseses are much more expensive, but anything Japanese will be about half the cost. IIRC Porkers are a bit cheaper, and obviously anything that has a huge engine, goes like stink but falls over at a corner will be much cheaper for you guys too I haven't looked at super/hyper car prices I must admit, but I'm surprised the difference is that much. Like for like on new, or used examples? Also worth remembering that we earn twice as much over here as you do in the US, it's just that everything costs twice as much as well so it balances itself out. Well, it's not quite twice anymore due to the crappy exchange rate for us, but the difference is still there.
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Andy, have you got any shots from the rear of the car looking forward, level with the wheel-arch if possible, with the doors fully open? Just trying to figure out how far out they open, as far from being an appearance mod they could seriously help me when I've got the car parked in the garage and am trying to get out.
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Just out of curiosity, would these work with a roadster? Or would the seal not function properly?
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If you are selling it, I'd simply go and buy a replacement cheapy drive and chuck that in with it, and keep/smash your old drive. Is it worth the risk of the next owner finding... C:\Documents and Settings\Jim\My Documents\pr0n\favs\furry\hot_goat_sex.mpg?
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+1 for hammer. You could use MoD-style 7-pass over writing programs, or stupidly powerful electromagnets, or a small thermonuclear device, but realistically if you physically smash the platters then it's going to cost someone a hell of a lot of money to be able to get anything back.
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How long were you with them? I had a decent return on my insurance when I cancelled with 4 months remaining after being with them for three years.
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Come on, that's far too much like common sense...
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Can you confirm that they are a set of 2 front and 2 rear? Only asking as the tyre sizes are for the fronts only.
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Got them from hyper-rev-motors. Item is based in New York and they only offer US-based company shipping, so I'm guessing they'll come from there. The eBay ID of the fellow does suggest he's in Taiwan, but regardless of where he is I know I'm looking at import tax + VAT + handling fee anyway. Like I said, I really didn't mean to buy them!
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Google for RON and MON petrol octane ratings, 93 in US works out to 98 over here. Differing measures is all, works out to be the same in principle.
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Remember also that cars are half the cost in the US than they are over here, so a $30K car would cost £30K over here more or less. Going on that, $414 every six months would be actually be £414, or £828 annually. It's still cheaper yes, but not by as much as you think when you compare the relative values of the cars in the domestic currency.
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I paid £134 for them all in, so that sounds about right. If I don't like 'em, you're first in the queue matey
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PF pads are utterly brilliant. I've had mine for about 7 months now and they've happily taken fast road + extended track use in their stride. Not cheap, but very good. The only downside is that they take a few applications to warm up, especially in this weather, but aside from that I can't fault them.
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Just accidentally bought myself a set of these via eBay... Note to self, don't use the Buy It Now option to quickly log yourself in to check the total price and then click the Commit To Buy without thinking! Ah well, guess we'll see what they're like when they turn up!