Ekona

Personally I wouldn't worry about it, and neither would I make any sort of effort to get in touch with them. If it was that urgent then you'd have had a knock on the door, but since you haven't then I'd carry on as normal.

Less rotating mass, so your revs will rise and fall quicker. You'll also free up more power as it's not being wasted trying to move a heavy flywheel around. Another ex-SELOCer here too :bye:

DING That's a bigger issue than the TC being a bit playful.

Interesting, haven't heard that term used before and is worth looking at I think. I've been a bit busy this week so haven't had a chance to progress any further with my diagnostics, so I really need to start looking at it this week if I can Thanks for the input, much appreciated

Sadly these ones really won't buff out, they're very deep. I've been offered one from a breakers for £100, which assuming it's in perfect condition isn't too bad at all. Anyone know if the glass is the same shape and tint across all years, all regions and from coupe to roadster?

My passenger window was scratched to buggery a few weeks ago (not my fault, not the car and not vandalism, long story) and now it looks like I need a new one Anyone got any idea how much these are to get hold of?

They should have gone through it with you when you were there, but generally that will mean your pads were getting low. Stick your head under and have a look after taking the wheel off, you'll know for sure then. Best get them done before you've got no pad left and start eating discs!

£1K is a healthy mates rate, seeing as how they advertise an average size family car from £1500 +VAT! I doubt you'd see much change from £2K on the Zed, dependant on what kind of vinyl you went for. Shame it's so pricey, as I'd love to do something like that to mine for the annual Le Mans pilgrimage.

Adam if you do have the bits laying around that would be great, happier to buy from someone who knows exactly what I need regardless of distance. I do already have the bolts in place through the rear holes, that was the only way we knew we had the brace in the right place!

That was pretty much our thinking on Sunday, that there had to be a specific fixing or something for the brace. Now all I need to do is to get hold of one...! Thanks for your help chaps, I'll try and source the bits I need. Alex, if I don't succeed any reason why a rivnut wouldn't work?

Sorry Steve, I didn't mean for my post to sound like a dig at you at all. I wasn't surprised to get no instructions with the braces as that's pretty much how I'd assumed you'd have got them from ESR anyway, hence why I didn't contact you first at all as I know if you'd had them then you'd have sent them. I apologise if my post came across as a dig at all, certainly wasn't meant that way. I'll e-mail Invoauto I think and see what they say about it.

That's exactly where mine should go, but I've got no thread to wind a bolt into at the two fixings on the gearbox end. There's three holes in the chassis there, but none are threaded.

Had the car since 1st Feb 2008, only had this problem since end of November.

Anyone here ever fitted it before? I've got the complete set and tried fitting it at the weekend minus any instructions. The kit looks like this: I've got the small brace that fits between the two front lower control arms on, and I've worked out where the other two long bits go as well. The trouble I'm having is with the big X-brace, as I know where it's supposed to go but there's no bolts or even nuts to bolt to! The actual location is as this: As per the picture, the bottom two bolts (exhaust end) are fine, but where the top two go (gearbox end) there's no bolt or nut or thread there on my car, so just how do you fit it? If needs be I can always drop a rivnut in the hole that's there, but there must be a different way of doing it as the rest of the kit just bolts up exactly where you'd expect it to, and it seems a bit weird that they want you to bolt to a place that has no existing bolt there... Anyone got any ideas?

Will do bud. Car's booked in at Nissan in Bishop's Stortford on the 7th of next month (!) so we'll see what they say then as well if I haven't had any luck sorting this. Hopefully they'll be replacing my bubbling alloys as well while it's there

Haven't tried swapping the wheels over, as trouble is I'd need to swap the tyres too as they're uni-directional, but that's a good idea. We measured all points underneath the car on both subframes and the chassis on both sides of the car and they're all within 2mm of each other. Top mounts are fine, and no knocking when going over bumps. Tyre pressures are also spot on (nitrogen filled too). Matt, thanks for the offer, I may well take you up on that!

Guys, I'm really stuck here and I'm hoping someone will have some ideas as this is now getting daft... Please bear with me, will probably be a long post! To put it simply, if you release the steering wheel when driving in a straight line the car starts drifting left, and also to get the car to go straight you have to hold the steering wheel slightly to the right. Everything points to a lack of alignment somewhere along the line, but having spent 7 hours at DMS yesterday we're 99.9% sure it's definitely not. Here's the basic story: I've had at least 8 alignments now and no matter what we do, the car always drifts left. I've had a normal OEM setup, a fast road setup, an aggressive setup, an even a setup that should have the car pulling so far to the right it's untrue, and still no success. Nothing makes any difference! I've got some Cusco adjustable a-arms on the front and Eibach arms at the rear to give total control over the camber of the car, so it's not like it's the stock setup leaving no room for adjustment. Last time I knocked my perfect alignment (and it was perfect, so it's not just the car) out it happened as I ground the car ever so briefly but fairly heavily on a country road, but there's no damage underneath (few scrapes on the bracing, but nothing too bad over and above what you'd normally get). We've checked: Front top and bottom control arms Rear control arms ARBS Shocks Springs Warping of the chassis/subframes Toe adjusters In short, everything it could be. The only we haven't taken apart is the steering rack: Given that mine's a speed-sensitive setup on the MY06, is it possible that something there is damaged? Maybe in the gearing when the rack connects at the bottom? I dunno, I'm grasping at straws here. Any help/ideas would be much appreciated, even if it's stating the obvious that we might have missed.

I... I'm almost lost for words. Best get some new friends, preferably ones with half a brain so that they may realise that even starting the engine with no filtration on at all is not exactly a great idea, much less blipping the throttle like it! I agree, probably hasn't done any damage at all, but it only takes one little bit of dirt to get through to completely screw up an engine.

Most important question is who's doing the tuning? I have no problems with that price at all (and I'm staying N/A), but if I'm paying that sort of cash I want it to be with someone with a proven background. Also, which Haltech are we talking about here?

Too late, already did that trying to install a replacement gaitor for the gearstick

Bugger, I'm changing to an Alpine unit! Ah well, I'll just order up one of those boosters and fit that at the same time. Cheers for that Matt, much appreciated. *EDIT* Ah, will need an aerial adaptor too, more good info!

I wouldn't. They're completely different tyres with completely different treads, and mixing tyres is really not worth the savings as they're the only thing keeping you in contact with the road. PS2s are easy to come by seeing as how they don't make the PS1 any more.

Given the amount of time/miles that have passed before it came back on, it's got to be something related to the exhaust that needed a few cycles before it tripped again.

Don't think he's been charged yet Rich. Shame to hear that Jerry, but will be interesting to know what the issue is.

Out of curiosity (and the fact I'm changing my Bose out in the next few weeks), is there any particular make of head unit that only gives half volume when connected to the Bose amp + speakers? Or is it really down to the individual specs of each particular head unit?