Ekona

What, so my reply of "There is no perfect setting, it's all down to the individual" wasn't obvious enough for you? Look, if you want to go by the Nissan book spec then Alex's post gives you all you need to know, and if you want to go for something out of those specs for trackwork then you'll simply have to do what everyone else does and that's experiment. My setup could be far too oversteery for you and you'd hate it, and it just as easily could have far too much understeer for your taste. It's a personal preference, and it's the reason that performance car manufacturers set their cars up for maximum oversteerability before they give them to Clarkson to test, as that's how he likes his cars setup and will give that car a better review because of it. They'll simply set it back to 'normal' specs before the car goes on sale. How much under/oversteer do you want on the car? Or do you simply want it neutral? Nissan spec will be slightly understeery to help keep the n00bs on the road so slightly more aggressive than that will give you a neutral car, but I prefer mine to be slightly oversteery for a more defined (and bum clenching if you get it wrong!) drive. Each to their own.

http://www.pepipoo.com You can ask for the evidence but the likelihood is that they'll say you can only see it when you go to court. Legally wrong, but unless you've got the cash to stump up for a specialist lawyer then all you can do is go with it. If you're 100% sure that you weren't speeding then go for it, but if it's only 80% then suck it up and take the points.

Well worth putting nitrogen in the tyres if you're going to be doing plenty of track work. I've used it a few times now and it really does make a difference.

Leave them exactly as they are, unless you really want to save tyre wear then you want to raise them by about 5psi all round. Definitely don't drop pressures, you'll kill your tyres.

I really hope you won the bet, or that's not actually your car... There's a reason you can only find 6 owners ;)

That's just the OEM spec for the car though: If you've got the adjustment to go beyond what the specs say, you'll end up with a far more aggressively handling car. Or are you saying that you run OEM specs on your car Alex?

There is no perfect setting, it's all down to the individual. Take your car to someone who does race-spec geos and explain to them exactly how you want the car to handle on track and let them do the work.

That's exactly what I've done with mine. Keeps the iPhone handy in case I need it, but the cable is well tucked away so that only the connector is sitting in the pocket. Personally I'd rather keep the already small cubby near the armrest free for various other bits, and the DIN pocket is so small anyway I can't think of anything else I'd want to put in there.

If a 612 Scaglietti had an illegitimate love child with an original Dodge Charger, that's what it'd look like.

Good man

Mine rarely uses any at all, even after two trackdays. *touches all the wood I can see*

I'd rather get the bus than risk £20K worth of car. If you can't afford 2 new tyres (and yes, you need to change both sides at the same time) then can you really afford to run the car? If you think having both rears down to the limit is dodgy, then this is dodgy x infinity.

You'll need to get it repaired properly Rich, that flexi joint will move like buggery even with the wrap on and then it'll simply tear all over again.

Wow, they kept the release of that quiet!

DO WANT *hugs Infinity Ward*

+1 on Line6 stuff. Mate of mine had a head+cab setup in our previous band and it sounded beautiful when matched with a decent Ibanez.

That'd do it. Good price too.

Assuming you've got no idea really what sound you're after yet, I'd be very tempted to stick with something from Peavey. They're not the greatest name in guitar amplification, but you will get a fair amount of bang for your buck along with a sound that's pretty flexible. I currently use a Bandit 112 which is probably way overkill for your needs, but it suits me very well for anything from classic rock to metal, although it's happiest when I'm playing something with a more average rather than extreme sound (think Foo Fighters etc). Tbh you're best off going down to your local music place and having a play with various stuff down there using your own guitar, then at least you'll know exactly what it'll sound like. Doesn't matter if you can't play for peanuts, just give the sales guy the guitar and let him demo it for you while you listen. If you really want to go cheap and cheerful then there's always the option of one of those £50 mini-mini Marshall things and plugging a decent set of headphones into it, no good for jamming though.

Whereabouts in Berks are you Mark? You're welcome to pop round and borrow my OBDII reader if you like, but I'm not exactly just round the corner! I'd be tempted to find a small-ish garage close to you if there's no-one on here closer, they should all have code readers and shouldn't charge more than £20-ish (realistically that's all Nissan should charge you too if you pop down to a main dealer). Well worth investing a code reader off of eBay, worth their weight in gold.

Well I wasn't going to say it

Very obscure codes those, any of them. I'd carry on as normal and see if the CEL comes on again, and if it does with a repeat code then we've got something further to go on. If not, call it a fluke and ignore it.

Won't be anything to do with the exhaust as everything you changed is long after the O2 sensors. Only thing that would throw an O2 error code would be different cats or test pipes, or a leak before the sensors.

He should be shot for turning such a beautiful car into such an ugly piece of @*!#. Front looks like a snowplough and the rear looks like an ironing board.

I'm running the Cuscos as well Maz, lovely pieces of kit.

I've only ever seen them facing one way on both front and rear discs, although I guess there's nothing to stop you having it your way. Seeing as how the fronts carry the vast majority of the braking force they would be the ones I'd have set up aggressively if anything, but DBA might well have put them your way round simply to avoid any excess pad/rotor wear.