Ekona

Speak to Richard Egger or CCI

Fair enough. Still looks awful though.

Actually, the TREADED area of the tyre isn't allowed to be visable from the top of the arch. Which those aren't Hence why stretched tyres and camber are used. Umm, if you look at the offside rear you can clearly the top of the tyre sticks out past the top of the arch. That bit definitely has tread on, so that counts That white one looks equally retarded, sorry! That is simply never going to be drivable to any extent that you could call fun, and I'm very much a fan of driving cars rather than just looking at them.

Wheels + tyres aren't allowed to protrude past the arches, which those most definitely are.

Really like that, very subtle. Nice work

That pic, ladies and gentlemen, illustrates perfectly why I'm glad it's illegal to drive your car like that over here. Looks ridiculous.

Ooh, good point: I only need the price of the Vantages to fall another £5-8K and then I might have to chop the Zed in for one!

If they slide anything like my Ford Ranger then that is utterly brilliant and I desperately want it too

Way to kill a brand Aston Aston's do not, and never should, come with a 3-cylinder engine. The only exception is if the other three cylinders (minimum) are missing due to the pistons having speared the block or something equally awesome

Is the damage only/mainly on the front matey? I think the long bonnet of the Zed and the slab sides would suit a large graphic design of some kind better than manufacturer logos, might be worth exploring that territory? Could get away with not having the silly bodykit + wing if you did it that way too.

Rich, if you're going to do it then you'll need to go OTT on the whole car to make it work IMHO. I'm talking big bodykit, big spoiler, big wheels, the works basically. I got away with mine as it's only ever a temp job for LM this year, wouldn't dream of keeping it on semi-permanently. You'll also need a big budget for it if you want to do it properly GT-style, bear in mind I spent £150 on cheap stickers and fitted 90% of them myself: You could easily spend anywhere up to £700 on vinyl and I'd get the experts to put it on as small stuff is a piece of cake, but you want the big stuff to look right. By that time you're getting to the point where a decent paint job is almost looking like the cheap option...! Have a word with the guys at Raccoon up in Woolpit, they can do the whole design for you to your specs and will use their quality vinyl. No harm in asking, anyway.

Declare everything and anything, even if it's as stupid as different dust caps or where you've painted the shield for your induction kit. No company is ever going to charge you silly amounts for stuff like that (presuming you went with a decent one in the first place!), and it gives you peace of mind that you've satisfied your end of the contract.

Agreed, it should always be lit IIRC.

+millionty If you carry on doing that you could warp the discs and then need to replace them again straight away. As a rule I always do: 50-30 with light pressure x6 70-40 with med pressure x6 Drive for about 100 miles without ever using full pedal pressure unless it's to avoid an accident 90-40 with hard pressure x6 That's a very rough rule though, depends on pad type really.

That's disgusting, there shouldn't be that many (if any) accidents on a track day if it's well organised. If people are driving beyond their limits then they should be hauled off before they damage their own car or someone else's.

Epic fail Sorry, cruel to laugh I know, but that's the one thing I always check I have with me before I leave the house. Everything you can beg/steal/borrow when you get there, helmet included, but not your licence. Just one question though, why did you have your insurance with you? Did they ask for that as well?

That's what I run, no real increase in terms of noise but far more grip and feel than the RE040/050s.

That's what I run, no real increase in terms of noise but far more grip and feel than the RE040/050s.

Not bad at all matey, not bad at all

Not bad at all matey, not bad at all

I find the back end of the circuit dull as ditchwater since they put all the hairpins in. You would think that they would be fun, but I actually find them tedious. Best bit for me is the P hairpin leading up to the back straight. Always find a different line through there everytime, really tricky little set of corners to master.

I find the back end of the circuit dull as ditchwater since they put all the hairpins in. You would think that they would be fun, but I actually find them tedious. Best bit for me is the P hairpin leading up to the back straight. Always find a different line through there everytime, really tricky little set of corners to master.

A nice set of 18's with stock tyre sizes will be the best. You don't really need any wider tyres unless you're putting down silly power, so keeping unsprung weight to the minimum is the way to go. A set of TE37s would be awesome if a tad pricey, but tbh there's not a lot wrong with a set of Rays and then some decent rubber on there: I run the PilotSport 2s after recommendations on here, and they're simply incredible. If money was no object I'd do the wheels as well, but for now the grip + feel I get is more than enough for fast road driving.

A nice set of 18's with stock tyre sizes will be the best. You don't really need any wider tyres unless you're putting down silly power, so keeping unsprung weight to the minimum is the way to go. A set of TE37s would be awesome if a tad pricey, but tbh there's not a lot wrong with a set of Rays and then some decent rubber on there: I run the PilotSport 2s after recommendations on here, and they're simply incredible. If money was no object I'd do the wheels as well, but for now the grip + feel I get is more than enough for fast road driving.

There is no such thing as "better", it all depends on what you want from a car. Zero lag is preferable for ease of use and track work, turbo power is great for overtaking on the road. A well set-up turbo kit can be under less stress than a poorly done S/C, so it all comes down to how you want the car to drive above anything else. If it's ultimate reliability you're after then you don't want to be going FI at all, as there's always an element of risk no matter how safe your setup.