Ekona

Interesting how the rears have overheated yet the fronts haven't, considering where the majority of the brake force is.

Mine are as gold as the fronts on a UK GT-equipped car.

Not necessarily, the exact pressure will depend on tyre brand and in particular how stiff the sidewalls are. For RE040s 35psi is spot on, for something like T1Rs you'd want a couple of psi more in to account for the chocolate sidewalls. Not too sure on the Falkens though having never personally run them.

Change your front tyres ASAP. Hell, if you can't afford two new Falkens then match the Kendas (whatever they are, I assume it's Korean for DitchFinder) for the rear as well. Four matched tyres (even crap ones) will be better than mis-matched tyres full stop. Mixing tyres really isn't a good thing to do on any car, regardless of power output or engine configuration or whatever. They're the only thing keeping you in contact with the road, and you'll have vastly differing grip levels fore and aft depending on weather, road surface, speed, camber etc which can end in neither you nor the car knowing which way round it's supposed to be going.

What tyres on the front?

If you'd have read the write up properly yourself you'd have realised why it's a stupid idea without Rich having to explain it all for you. Besides, if you buy the right exhaust in the first place you won't get any drone.

Because Nissan didn't design a trick exhaust. It's a standard design so there's nothing you can do with it in that way.

I can guarantee that code has nothing to do with changing the backbox then, unless you nudged a joint or something. There's no sensors past the O2s in the cats.

What's the code? I'm going to take a stab in the dark and guess you're running either decat pipes or you're got an exhaust leak prior to the cats themselves. And they're titanium shims, not seals: I assume that was a typo though. And you might want to try Dixon at DMS for the Dixcel stuff, like people have already mentioned in this thread.

No. Completely different car, completely different exhaust design.

If you get the correct offsets then you won't need spacers

Interesting, never considered that side of things. Thanks for that Adam, I may just have to give this stuff a try.

Interesting about the difference between the two brake fluids you mention Adam: Is there that much of a difference between them? I only ask as I'm running the Motul stuff right now and have found it to be much better than stock, however I'm prepared to swap it out for the Endless if the difference is that much. My only query relates to the comparative differences in the boiling points: Motul Dry: 312°c Wet: 216°c Endless Dry: 323°c Wet: 218°c There's only 11°c between the two at dry, and just 2°c when wet: Surely that can't make that much difference? Not questioning you, rather I'm trying to learn as my knowledge of brake fluids isn't what it should be. PS my Ti shims are in the country now, just need to arrange to go and pick them up, thanks again

True, but you should also be doing a speed that means you do not have to touch the brakes at all: I'll admit I've never done Mallory, but every other track I've done (Anglesey old & new, Bedford GT, Rockingham etc) it's certainly possible to both keep a good speed but also never touch the brakes. Still, that shouldn't cause the issues shown.

It's only a Nissan, no special parts needed, just take it somewhere you trust.

There's a bigger issue at fault here I think. I run stock discs with very aggressive Performance Friction carbon pads, and after a few trackdays there's not a mark on them (although they do have a nice lip now, hence me fitting a set of matching PF discs next week). Given that he's using far better discs with equivalent pads (not entirely sure on the heat range of the 2500s, but would imagine they're broadly similar to my PF ones) there should be no cracking like that at all. What brake fluid are you running? When was it last changed? When you say you do a cool down lap, I assume it's at a speed where you don't have to touch the brakes at all? If the bedding in procedure for the discs (note: Not the pads!) has been followed correctly, then nothing like this should occur. Possibly faulty discs? Be worth contacting DBA regarding this and seeing what they say.

Wow, some very interesting responses The results of the poll are pretty much what I thought they'd be, and they certainly sum up the contents of the forum for the most part. I can't say that I'm not a little disappointed really with the results, as the Zed is such an amazing driver's car and I personally feel that it's a shame that so many people bought the car for the way it looks rather than what it can do, but that's just me being me; I totally understand and appreciate that not everyone is the same and has the same objectives from their cars as I do. It'd be a boring world if that was the case! So yeah, I voted performance

Walk away. Plenty of cars out there that aren't as much hassle as this one sounds, and I think you know anyway that this isn't the way to go.

Just out of curiosity really this poll, as it's a question that's been wandering around my head all day. It's pretty self-explanatory really: What was the main reason behind buying your 350Z? Did you go for the aggressive way it looks or the way you could make it look, or was it the way it drove that blew you away? I've deliberately left it only as two options I know that most people would've gone for a combination of the two, but that's a cop-out answer so I left it out Give reasons if you like, totally up to you.

I think this is delayed karma payback for running off before paying for your fish and chips ;) Tell Lucy that me and Jo hopes she feels better soon.

Count me in too

One thing I did notice about that is the 'new' ducktail kick spoiler on the engine lid. They describe this as available only on this model, yet if you look closely at the genII GT3RS it uses what appears to be the exact same lid to attach the BFW to Still, a beautiful car, and it reminds me again exactly why I'm saving for a 997 to replace the Zed in a year or so.

This, a million times this. Guys, you cannot compare data between dynos done in different places on different days by different operators as there's too many variables. It's irrelevant if the RST dyno over reads or not, as it will still give you the true bump in power between the first run done before the map and the run done after.

No vibrations at all with mine, or at least none that you can hear over the exhaust anyway.

It does make a difference, yes. Not a huge one, but in lower gears you can get more slipping from the tyres amongst other issues, hence most dyno runs are done in 4th gear. Tbh as Rich said a dyno is only worthwhile as a comparison on one particular day as weather conditions alter readings a lot, and comparing between dynos is pointless. If the car feels right, and the graphs look okay then it's better just to ignore the numbers up to a point.