Ekona

You don't know how right you are, will certainly stop the missus from complaining now

But how much is the turbo kit for that engine going to cost? A good few £K to do it properly, and that's even if the engine and gearbox are built for that sort of power.

For about half of the UK circuits it'll be fine with the bungs in, but it'll fail Bedford on the drive-by and that's one circuit that's close to me that I have always enjoyed driving in the past and want to go back there. 'Tis a shame, but that's the sacrifice I need to make unfortunately. I've thought about getting another exhaust, but then I'll always be chasing the sound that the K1 made and the louder I go the less places I can drive, so I'll just concede defeat on this one.

I'm sure it'll drive well, as Toyota certainly know what they're doing mostly when it comes to designing a decent chassis and Suburu have proved that they're not exactly novices, I just can't see why you'd buy it over anything else. If you want a RWD coupe then you'd buy a BMW/Lexus, if you want a cheap sports car you'd buy pretty much anything else that was actually sporty.

... to the garage to have the K1 removed and the stock exhaust put back on, and to have the PF discs put on. It's really not going to feel like my car anymore, not since I've finally taken all the Le Mans stickers off as well. I know that it's all for a good reason (to do more trackdays) and that it'll keep it more pure rather than me spending honking loads of money on stuff that won't make it any quicker, but I loved that exhaust on there. From the second I started the car after installation and grinned like a loon as I realised it was no quieter than having no exhaust on at all (it just made a better noise), right the way through to how it sounded it redlining it up to 5th gear in France and getting done by the Gendarmes for speeding: It's been a really good experience, and it did give the car the extra bit of personality it needed. Here's you, my beloved K1 exhaust

But how much are you going to be able to get out of it without spending silly money? 20bhp? Maybe 30bhp? That's still not going to set the world alight, and if that car weighs as much as I think it's going to (around 1400kgs) you're still talking about a car that is going to be miles slower than a Clio 200, much less something competing on a more even price level. It's a pretty car, I'll give it that, but unless they drop the 2GR-FE from the Toyota range or the EJ257 from the Subaru, then it's dead in the water as a performance car IMHO.

This. Not cheap (£300 all round-ish IIRC) but utterly stunning in feel and stopping power. Not as dusty as you'd expect, either.

Yeah, it's alright

Just played the demo on XBL. This is THE most f*cking awesome, epic, badass, rockingest game I have EVER played in my entire life. This is gaming. This is the greatest and best game in the world (pun intended). It's so simple to control, yet you know the depth is probably going to be there in the full version and even if it's not I couldn't give a f*ck, as Jack Black finally gives the performance of a lifetime. The humour is so well-judged, and the sarcasm so biting, I was in tears of laughter one minute and in FULL ROCKING MODE WITH JAW LEFT DANGLING OPEN the next as there's so many bits of rock-awesomeness even the demo. I feared for this to suck. I now want to play this more than Forza 3 or MW2. It's like Golden Axe crossed with Rock Band. GO DOWNLOAD THIS NOW Seriously guys, this is really good. Go download and see.

Not if the image Alex posted up is correct (which it is). Slots should be aiming forwards, yours clearly aren't. Also, I can't even see any slots on your LHS rear, although that might be the camera angle. Yes, and they're things of beauty, and you've precious little hope of getting them for Friday unless you want to pay Adam silly money for next-day FedEx delivery or similar. Why Friday? Can you not put this all off until you've got everything together and can do it properly?

I always buy 1.5L. Not worth running the risk of running out mid-change IMHO.

I got brand new replacement Rays from Nissan under warranty approx 2 months ago, and they definitely had the blue dots on them. Still do, in fact.

Aww you missed the obvious pun there, as in give the guy a "brake"... *gets coat* And I do kinda think you missed my point. His writing is obviously of such a standard that we can all understand what he's trying to say, which leaves only one other option...

No worries, glad you got it sorted. It's surprising how great an affect on the car a pew psi here or there on the tyres can make.

You either really have precious little idea what you're talking about, or you have such a poor way with words that you struggle to get your point across. Your turn in speed should always be the max of what you and the car are capable of but with consideration to the cornering line and apex in mind: If anything you want to be a fraction past the limit to achieve the perfect 4-wheel drift past the apex. Of course if you go too fast into a corner and then nail the brakes your balance is going to be all over the shop, but then given that you've said yourself that you brake later than you should and then brake a bit more to get the front heavy tells me all I need to know. I've never known anyone else on these boards to have as much trouble with their car as you after tracking it, not even Alex with his setup. Every time someone points out that perhaps it's your driving style and that you really need to get some tuition you simply gloss over it and blame something mechanical. Maybe, just maybe, we're actually trying to help you here and not just insult your mad driving skillz, and it might be worth trying what is suggested? Hell, if we're wrong and it's actually the case that you're the world's greatest driver then at least the tutor can give McLaren a call and get you a seat next to Lewis next year. But yeah, perhaps if the discs were fitted the right way you might not have screwed them up so badly.

There's more point in left foot braking in a manual than in an auto, and if you can do it then it's certainly a worthwhile technique for tackling certain corners. You're also missing the point of late braking: It's got nothing to do with putting more weight over the front wheels, it's about carrying every last bit of speed you can into the corner. If you're getting understeer that badly then you've got the car set up wrong, and need to take it for a decent geo setup. From what you describe (specifically, having to go WOT mid-corner during a very wide corner) then the setup here is your biggest issue, and is fighting against you all the way. Due to not being able to switch the Zed's ability to brake individual corners on a UK car, there are times when you'd have to brake and lift just before the ECU works out what's going on to be able to get the front to tuck in under braking: It's probably the hardest thing to get right on the Zed, but is incredibly satisfying when you nail it. AFAIK there's no way to set the braking bias in a standard car, so if the fitters hadn't bled the brakes properly you'd feel it through the pedal instantly. It's more likely your stupidly aggressive braking has boiled the fluid, overheated the pads and destroyed the discs. My advice would be to get new calipers, discs, fluid and pads all round, bed them in gently for approx 300 miles, then bed the pads in properly, and then get yourself on some kind of driver training day. Car Limits is the place I've been to a couple of times as Andy Walsh is a superb instructor, but I appreciate that he's a bit far from you. Still, gotta be worth the travelling if it saves you another set of brakes.

i don't know, with all the power to the rear, if he's heel and toeing, your still trying to put force through the rear caliper while braking. fronts are only subject to rolling resistance and the brake pad. Sorry Rich, but that's completely wrong. Heel and toeing involves no extra power being sent to the wheels at all, that's the whole point of it: Dip the clutch and blip the throttle as you do so, change gear and re-engage clutch matching the revs to the speed you're doing. If you do it correctly the net result is a very smooth gear change that doesn't upset the balance of the car at the point of turn in, if you get it wrong it can make things much worse stability-wise but won't cause any more issues with the braking.

Interesting how the rears have overheated yet the fronts haven't, considering where the majority of the brake force is.

Mine are as gold as the fronts on a UK GT-equipped car.

Not necessarily, the exact pressure will depend on tyre brand and in particular how stiff the sidewalls are. For RE040s 35psi is spot on, for something like T1Rs you'd want a couple of psi more in to account for the chocolate sidewalls. Not too sure on the Falkens though having never personally run them.

Change your front tyres ASAP. Hell, if you can't afford two new Falkens then match the Kendas (whatever they are, I assume it's Korean for DitchFinder) for the rear as well. Four matched tyres (even crap ones) will be better than mis-matched tyres full stop. Mixing tyres really isn't a good thing to do on any car, regardless of power output or engine configuration or whatever. They're the only thing keeping you in contact with the road, and you'll have vastly differing grip levels fore and aft depending on weather, road surface, speed, camber etc which can end in neither you nor the car knowing which way round it's supposed to be going.

What tyres on the front?

If you'd have read the write up properly yourself you'd have realised why it's a stupid idea without Rich having to explain it all for you. Besides, if you buy the right exhaust in the first place you won't get any drone.

Because Nissan didn't design a trick exhaust. It's a standard design so there's nothing you can do with it in that way.

I can guarantee that code has nothing to do with changing the backbox then, unless you nudged a joint or something. There's no sensors past the O2s in the cats.