Ekona

The idea behind any bedding procedure is to leave a thin film of material on the discs as well treating the whole pad to an even temperature. I use the following method for OEM and aftermarket stuff unless specifically told otherwise: 5 x light pedal applications from 50mph to 30mph: This warms up the front edge of the pad. Drive for 2 miles without touching the brakes (if possible) at 50mph+ (get loads of cool air onto the brakes) 5 x medium pedal applications from 70mph to 30mph: This warms up the centre of the pad. Drive for 2 miles without touching the brakes (if possible) at 50mph+ 5 x hard pedal applications from 100mph to 50mph: This warms up the back edge of the pad. Drive for 2 miles without touching the brakes (if possible) at 50mph+ That's a very general usage guide. Some brakes (AP discs IIRC) want you to do the last set of stops after approx 200 miles of regular driving without any hard stops, but that's not always possible. Mintex and Performance Friction are fine with the method as it stands though. As far as the light, med and hard pressures go... Light = Gentle braking, what you would normally do on the road given the chance Medium = Fairly solid pressure, but before the point of locking up/ABS Hard = Stand on the pedal! You won't go far wrong with any of that.

If you have an iPod for use in the car, you'll never need a CD anyway. I've got an Alpine iPod-only unit in mine and it's the greatest thing I've ever done to the car (well, almost) and I wouldn't go back to using those horrible shiny discs ever again. Get the right lead and it'll connect with the steering controls perfectly as well. I <3 my Alpine.

Snake oil.

You can mix profile all you want, as long as you keep the ratio the same. Bear in mind that profile isn't a fixed size, it's just a percentage of the width of the tyre. For example, if you went for a wider tyre you'd go for a smaller profile to keep the rolling radius the same. Only downside is that it can look a bit funny on some cars/wheels.

They don't seem to do the Blue in 350Z size anyway, or at least their website only offers the Red and Yellow. Tbh with an endurance pad like that it's going to take a fair amount of time to get any heat into it, although the upshot of this is that it will suffer much less from heat under extended use. Given that when on track you're only going to be out there for 20mins tops on a trackday (maybe the same when racing, depending on track/race, but at a much higher tempo), you'd be mad to try something like this IMHO. Given Greekman's excellent feedback on the quite frankly ridiculous wear rate on the Dixcel pads he's used I don't think they're a sensible alternative for road brakes either unless money is no object, but then if it was you'd get a BBK and a more sensible pad. The other thing with enduro pads is that often you lose sensitivity which isn't a bad sacrifice to make if it saves you changing pads mid-race when you're on it 10/10ths, but again would you want that on a road car? I'm not so sure. Just my own personal thoughts on it anyway.

A 100c cat will pass any MOT without a hitch, I've run them on previous cars too In my experience changing the OEM cat to lower CPI ones makes precious little difference as OEM cats flow sooooo much better than they used to; however I believe it was Adam who corrected my statement last time by saying that there was a noticeable difference on his car when he swapped over, so perhaps Nissan have used more restrictive cats on the Zed than other manufacturers use.

Fair enough, one month out makes no difference anyway.

55 plate ran from Sept 2005 to April 2006 The plate is correct for the car.

I'd be very interested in your opinion, as when I tracked another Zed with RE050s on recently (in damp conditions) I think I actually preferred them to the MPS2 I use on mine, so if the Sessantas are close to them then it's another option to keep in mind...

Noooo not more weight, it's already fat enough as it is

It's all a bit irrelevant really as the cost of running a thirsty V6 £30K sports car means that £200 is neither here or there really. But yeah, Geoff's right. There are a few anomaly imports floating around IIRC, but it's not something I'd lose any sleep over.

You can, but you have to know what you're doing else you'll be locking one end before the other. As a rule, you want to have most of the stopping power on the front wheels, but you don't want to go too extreme. I'm running PF discs & pads on the front and OEM discs with PF pads on the rear with braided hoses and Endless fluid, and it's a very good setup for fast road and moderate track use. Great bite from cold and zero fade on track even after 20 mins, the only obstacle is the massive weight of the Zed which means that whilst stopping power is better than OEM (along with feel and fade), you're still stopping 1700kg+ of car (incl driver + fluids) which means that it's not quite as YOINKS as I would like. Obviously the next step for me would be for a larger setup with more pistons up front and maybe slightly larger discs in the rear, but then I'd need new wheels possibly and you start getting into daft costs considering what I've spent already. For maybe 90% of people I'd say the setup I've got is on the money, but if you really want to push harder then a BBK and/or serious weight loss (200-300 kg MIN!) of the car is the way forward. All IMHO, YMMV etc.

Bear in mind with 20" wheels you'll make the car slower and give yourself a slightly harsher ride. /spoilsport They look quite nice wheels though, and I'm not normally a fan of aftermarket ones at all.

I'm not exactly sure where it takes the temps from tbh, anyone else know?

Temperature for what? Radiator/engine temps General coolant temp you mean? Probably the best way would be to add a temp sensor into the line wherever you wanted the specific temp (before rad/after rad/before block/after block) and run it back to a gauge in the cabin. You could use the OBDII, but that's a bit Heath Robinson and you'd be much better off using a specific sensor for it.

Temperature for what?

Good man, just make sure you don't get caught as you could be done for careless or even dangerous driving!

I bought this one for use in the truck, and it works perfectly. Any of the others are overkill IMHO.

I'd argue the opposite. You have to tell your insurer about anything that changes the nature of the risk you represent to them at any time, be that putting a big exhaust on or a shiny bodykit. If you have points then you're proven to have been speeding which makes you more likely to have an accident (if you believe the statistics). Put it this way, it's not something I'd ever like to be arguing the toss over should I need to claim, and for the small extra cost is it worth not telling them? I know where you're coming from Sarnie and you've far more experience than me in the insurance field but I trust insurance companies as far as I can throw them and I see no point in giving them any ammo against you if you can help it.

It shouldn't do. I believe the rule is that they penalise you 15% on your premium for every 3pts, but don't start adding until you're past 6pts, i.e you go from nothing to 45% loading once you hit 9pts! All insurers are different though, so do check with yours. And don't forget to tell them as soon as the points come through, not at next renewal.

Bunch of scaredy cats

Just what did you expect when you bought the exhaust?!

Not going to get any change from £15K if you do that though, bit more than £8K There's nowt wrong with a K-series engine that a couple of hundred quid can't fix anyway if it's got HGF or not, and it certainly wouldn't put me off buying one. There isn't a car in the world that can touch an S1 Elise (except maybe an S1 Exige!) as a driving experience, and I'd love one as a second car if funds allowed.

That's absolutely superb!

If it's just for the summer then get something daft like a Caterham Roadsport or something. If you're keeping the Zed then there's no real need for it to be practical if it's just for the summer, and you'll not lose money on anything that cheap for a few months.