Ekona

You can, but you have to know what you're doing else you'll be locking one end before the other. As a rule, you want to have most of the stopping power on the front wheels, but you don't want to go too extreme. I'm running PF discs & pads on the front and OEM discs with PF pads on the rear with braided hoses and Endless fluid, and it's a very good setup for fast road and moderate track use. Great bite from cold and zero fade on track even after 20 mins, the only obstacle is the massive weight of the Zed which means that whilst stopping power is better than OEM (along with feel and fade), you're still stopping 1700kg+ of car (incl driver + fluids) which means that it's not quite as YOINKS as I would like. Obviously the next step for me would be for a larger setup with more pistons up front and maybe slightly larger discs in the rear, but then I'd need new wheels possibly and you start getting into daft costs considering what I've spent already. For maybe 90% of people I'd say the setup I've got is on the money, but if you really want to push harder then a BBK and/or serious weight loss (200-300 kg MIN!) of the car is the way forward. All IMHO, YMMV etc.

Bear in mind with 20" wheels you'll make the car slower and give yourself a slightly harsher ride. /spoilsport They look quite nice wheels though, and I'm not normally a fan of aftermarket ones at all.

I'm not exactly sure where it takes the temps from tbh, anyone else know?

Temperature for what? Radiator/engine temps General coolant temp you mean? Probably the best way would be to add a temp sensor into the line wherever you wanted the specific temp (before rad/after rad/before block/after block) and run it back to a gauge in the cabin. You could use the OBDII, but that's a bit Heath Robinson and you'd be much better off using a specific sensor for it.

Temperature for what?

Good man, just make sure you don't get caught as you could be done for careless or even dangerous driving!

I bought this one for use in the truck, and it works perfectly. Any of the others are overkill IMHO.

I'd argue the opposite. You have to tell your insurer about anything that changes the nature of the risk you represent to them at any time, be that putting a big exhaust on or a shiny bodykit. If you have points then you're proven to have been speeding which makes you more likely to have an accident (if you believe the statistics). Put it this way, it's not something I'd ever like to be arguing the toss over should I need to claim, and for the small extra cost is it worth not telling them? I know where you're coming from Sarnie and you've far more experience than me in the insurance field but I trust insurance companies as far as I can throw them and I see no point in giving them any ammo against you if you can help it.

It shouldn't do. I believe the rule is that they penalise you 15% on your premium for every 3pts, but don't start adding until you're past 6pts, i.e you go from nothing to 45% loading once you hit 9pts! All insurers are different though, so do check with yours. And don't forget to tell them as soon as the points come through, not at next renewal.

Bunch of scaredy cats

Just what did you expect when you bought the exhaust?!

Not going to get any change from £15K if you do that though, bit more than £8K There's nowt wrong with a K-series engine that a couple of hundred quid can't fix anyway if it's got HGF or not, and it certainly wouldn't put me off buying one. There isn't a car in the world that can touch an S1 Elise (except maybe an S1 Exige!) as a driving experience, and I'd love one as a second car if funds allowed.

That's absolutely superb!

If it's just for the summer then get something daft like a Caterham Roadsport or something. If you're keeping the Zed then there's no real need for it to be practical if it's just for the summer, and you'll not lose money on anything that cheap for a few months.

Depends on the car, but they're about as fallible as the Zed is overall.

Man, your poor car.

Any idea how much postage to mainland UK would be?

Ignore power gains as the Zed really does have enough, go for suspension instead. That'll make so much more of a difference to the car than anything.

You can get a Cayman S with 20K miles for the same price as a new 370Z. One of those is the class leader and won't drop £10K in the first year of ownership, has a beautifully crafted interior, and has the engine in the right place. The other one is a Nissan. Given that running costs will be approximately equal, I know which I'd rather have. If only the Boxster looked quite as good as the Cayman then I'd have had one of those over the 350Z, too. And regardless of jealousy, the interior on the 370Z is still very poor for what the car represents, it's just not as bad an original 350Z.

You should really, but the car won't fall over and die if you don't. You'll make bit less power tis all.

Loads of info on here, but in short you're much better off simply changing the head unit. Have a search for 'iPod Bose', will bring up a ton of threads.

Looks like an Audi TT a bit, especially in that colour... The guys that saved that from its original state deserve a medal. Great to see a happy ending after all

This. They're only about £14, I bought a couple just in case. Pop your head in and get them to tell you which type of wheel nut you have and then get the part number for that key.

Looks very bulbous, and that interior was clearly designed by the work experience lad on a Friday afternoon, it's a mess! I'd rather take the new 5-series over that any day. Actually, I'd rather have an A6 if I'm spending my own money, but I certainly wouldn't be buying that. Looks a bit like a fat version of a gen2 Hyundai coupe...

Ditchfinders You should've put up with ugly wheels than buy cheap shitty rubber.