Ekona

I believe it was on the Merc S-Class first (like most things), and agree that it's a pretty good idea. Definitely wakes you up when following!

What's the budget? My personal preference would be a 986 Boxster if you can as it's a better car than either, but failing that it comes down to whether you like a revvy engine or a torquey one. I prefer the latter on the road so bought the Zed, however I've driven a Stook on track in anger and found it to be the better track car out of the box by some way. Each to their own really. Personally I wouldn't go back to a car I'd already owned, but that's just me.

BJV all the way. Great prices, even better quality. Really chuffed with the job they did on my Rays.

Yeah, the cross brace front fittings are damn clever but hugely frustrating to fit! I fitted the front and cross bracing myself and it's a straightforward job, but due to running out of time and getting a geo the next day anyway I let DMS fit the rear bits.

I know, I kinda surprised myself with just how good value it was!

:lol: @Rich: Wonder if Adam can do them cheaper from the States? That said, I do genuinely believe that even at Envy prices they're still a bargain.

Summit looks identical to the GT Spec stuff so I reckon someone ripped someone else off there, so I don't think it matters which you get now and as such go buy buy the GT stuff from Envy

Doesn't need to be sunny to have the roof down, just not raining I very rarely drive mine with the roof up, no need when the heater is so good. I'd be almost tempted if it wasn't for the fact that the interior still isn't as good as it should be, and that they've made the boot even smaller than on the 350Z droptop.

Should produce less power than a single turbo unit though as you can only get so much boost through those diddly little things

See, I totally disagree: Most of my driving is on the road (95%), and yet even at low speeds the immediacy of the car willing to react to input makes the bracing something every Zed should have. Like I said above though, I do agree that the cross brace probably won't make too much difference in the coupe.

I found the 4-piece Summit version to be an absolute revelation on my car. I ran the seperate pieces at different times to see the full extent of the differences, and I found the following: Main cross brace: Took out a lot of the flex and vibrations of the car (but bear in mind this is on a Roadster), car felt tighter but not hugely different in corners. + front lower brace: Sharpened up the steering by A LOT, and I cannot emphasise that enough. The car became pin-point sharp in the corners. + both rear braces: With the rears on as well, it gave the car almost a rear-engined 911 feel as you could feel exactly what the rear end was doing, which gave far more confidence on getting the power down coming out of corners. For a coupe I'm not sure I'd bother with the cross brace at first, but certainly the front and rear parts should be a must-have on anyone's list of mods to do. I would get these bits done before any major suspension changes (damper or spring) and see what you want to do from there. Tbh it's a bit of a surprise that these aren't considered a must-do mod by more people on here, but then seeing as how most people buy the car for the looks than spirited driving I guess that's not too surprising. In addition to what Greekman says about catching the cross brace when lowered, I can confirm that you'll get this on cars with standard suspension and stupidly high speedbumps too, however it's quite minor and if you drive slowly all you'll do is scratch it and give yourself a fear over the noise it makes!

No one does really. Treat it as a fast road drive rather than a track day and you'll (probably) be fine. Can't account for everyone else though, that's the worry.

Even worse than the usual ones, which is really saying something

+millionty Gutted for you mate, but unless it's a matter of life and death I really wouldn't be driving around atm. If that happened with the 'stones then it'll be so much worse with the ditchfinders.

What don't you understand? Find the earth and tap into it: How hard is that to do? You're basically just teeing into the wire and extending it so you have an earth going to the head unit. Without trying to completely patronise you, do you understand how the earth works and why it's needed?

You need to find the ground wire on the ISO loom and splice a wire into it to the chassis of the car. The Bose loom as standard has no earth, and without this wire you'll get no power at all.

To bump the thread BTTT (back to the top)

They're worth it, trust me

Any cat should pass the MOT so I can't see an issue there, and you shouldn't need to move the O2 sensors but you will need to use the anti foulers to get them up and out of the gas flow as you would with a normal decat.

Yes, it'll make the world of difference and will greatly contribute towards any instability you'll have. Sell the F1s and get another two MPS on the back, it'll be a billion times better. The F1s are very good tyres, but you can't get the fronts in the correct size hence the reason you'll want to go back to the MPS.

Are they the same kind of tyre?

Have you got mismatched tyres too?

The idea behind any bedding procedure is to leave a thin film of material on the discs as well treating the whole pad to an even temperature. I use the following method for OEM and aftermarket stuff unless specifically told otherwise: 5 x light pedal applications from 50mph to 30mph: This warms up the front edge of the pad. Drive for 2 miles without touching the brakes (if possible) at 50mph+ (get loads of cool air onto the brakes) 5 x medium pedal applications from 70mph to 30mph: This warms up the centre of the pad. Drive for 2 miles without touching the brakes (if possible) at 50mph+ 5 x hard pedal applications from 100mph to 50mph: This warms up the back edge of the pad. Drive for 2 miles without touching the brakes (if possible) at 50mph+ That's a very general usage guide. Some brakes (AP discs IIRC) want you to do the last set of stops after approx 200 miles of regular driving without any hard stops, but that's not always possible. Mintex and Performance Friction are fine with the method as it stands though. As far as the light, med and hard pressures go... Light = Gentle braking, what you would normally do on the road given the chance Medium = Fairly solid pressure, but before the point of locking up/ABS Hard = Stand on the pedal! You won't go far wrong with any of that.

If you have an iPod for use in the car, you'll never need a CD anyway. I've got an Alpine iPod-only unit in mine and it's the greatest thing I've ever done to the car (well, almost) and I wouldn't go back to using those horrible shiny discs ever again. Get the right lead and it'll connect with the steering controls perfectly as well. I <3 my Alpine.

Snake oil.