Ekona

Should produce less power than a single turbo unit though as you can only get so much boost through those diddly little things

See, I totally disagree: Most of my driving is on the road (95%), and yet even at low speeds the immediacy of the car willing to react to input makes the bracing something every Zed should have. Like I said above though, I do agree that the cross brace probably won't make too much difference in the coupe.

I found the 4-piece Summit version to be an absolute revelation on my car. I ran the seperate pieces at different times to see the full extent of the differences, and I found the following: Main cross brace: Took out a lot of the flex and vibrations of the car (but bear in mind this is on a Roadster), car felt tighter but not hugely different in corners. + front lower brace: Sharpened up the steering by A LOT, and I cannot emphasise that enough. The car became pin-point sharp in the corners. + both rear braces: With the rears on as well, it gave the car almost a rear-engined 911 feel as you could feel exactly what the rear end was doing, which gave far more confidence on getting the power down coming out of corners. For a coupe I'm not sure I'd bother with the cross brace at first, but certainly the front and rear parts should be a must-have on anyone's list of mods to do. I would get these bits done before any major suspension changes (damper or spring) and see what you want to do from there. Tbh it's a bit of a surprise that these aren't considered a must-do mod by more people on here, but then seeing as how most people buy the car for the looks than spirited driving I guess that's not too surprising. In addition to what Greekman says about catching the cross brace when lowered, I can confirm that you'll get this on cars with standard suspension and stupidly high speedbumps too, however it's quite minor and if you drive slowly all you'll do is scratch it and give yourself a fear over the noise it makes!

No one does really. Treat it as a fast road drive rather than a track day and you'll (probably) be fine. Can't account for everyone else though, that's the worry.

Even worse than the usual ones, which is really saying something

+millionty Gutted for you mate, but unless it's a matter of life and death I really wouldn't be driving around atm. If that happened with the 'stones then it'll be so much worse with the ditchfinders.

What don't you understand? Find the earth and tap into it: How hard is that to do? You're basically just teeing into the wire and extending it so you have an earth going to the head unit. Without trying to completely patronise you, do you understand how the earth works and why it's needed?

You need to find the ground wire on the ISO loom and splice a wire into it to the chassis of the car. The Bose loom as standard has no earth, and without this wire you'll get no power at all.

To bump the thread BTTT (back to the top)

They're worth it, trust me

Any cat should pass the MOT so I can't see an issue there, and you shouldn't need to move the O2 sensors but you will need to use the anti foulers to get them up and out of the gas flow as you would with a normal decat.

Yes, it'll make the world of difference and will greatly contribute towards any instability you'll have. Sell the F1s and get another two MPS on the back, it'll be a billion times better. The F1s are very good tyres, but you can't get the fronts in the correct size hence the reason you'll want to go back to the MPS.

Are they the same kind of tyre?

Have you got mismatched tyres too?

The idea behind any bedding procedure is to leave a thin film of material on the discs as well treating the whole pad to an even temperature. I use the following method for OEM and aftermarket stuff unless specifically told otherwise: 5 x light pedal applications from 50mph to 30mph: This warms up the front edge of the pad. Drive for 2 miles without touching the brakes (if possible) at 50mph+ (get loads of cool air onto the brakes) 5 x medium pedal applications from 70mph to 30mph: This warms up the centre of the pad. Drive for 2 miles without touching the brakes (if possible) at 50mph+ 5 x hard pedal applications from 100mph to 50mph: This warms up the back edge of the pad. Drive for 2 miles without touching the brakes (if possible) at 50mph+ That's a very general usage guide. Some brakes (AP discs IIRC) want you to do the last set of stops after approx 200 miles of regular driving without any hard stops, but that's not always possible. Mintex and Performance Friction are fine with the method as it stands though. As far as the light, med and hard pressures go... Light = Gentle braking, what you would normally do on the road given the chance Medium = Fairly solid pressure, but before the point of locking up/ABS Hard = Stand on the pedal! You won't go far wrong with any of that.

If you have an iPod for use in the car, you'll never need a CD anyway. I've got an Alpine iPod-only unit in mine and it's the greatest thing I've ever done to the car (well, almost) and I wouldn't go back to using those horrible shiny discs ever again. Get the right lead and it'll connect with the steering controls perfectly as well. I <3 my Alpine.

Snake oil.

You can mix profile all you want, as long as you keep the ratio the same. Bear in mind that profile isn't a fixed size, it's just a percentage of the width of the tyre. For example, if you went for a wider tyre you'd go for a smaller profile to keep the rolling radius the same. Only downside is that it can look a bit funny on some cars/wheels.

They don't seem to do the Blue in 350Z size anyway, or at least their website only offers the Red and Yellow. Tbh with an endurance pad like that it's going to take a fair amount of time to get any heat into it, although the upshot of this is that it will suffer much less from heat under extended use. Given that when on track you're only going to be out there for 20mins tops on a trackday (maybe the same when racing, depending on track/race, but at a much higher tempo), you'd be mad to try something like this IMHO. Given Greekman's excellent feedback on the quite frankly ridiculous wear rate on the Dixcel pads he's used I don't think they're a sensible alternative for road brakes either unless money is no object, but then if it was you'd get a BBK and a more sensible pad. The other thing with enduro pads is that often you lose sensitivity which isn't a bad sacrifice to make if it saves you changing pads mid-race when you're on it 10/10ths, but again would you want that on a road car? I'm not so sure. Just my own personal thoughts on it anyway.

A 100c cat will pass any MOT without a hitch, I've run them on previous cars too In my experience changing the OEM cat to lower CPI ones makes precious little difference as OEM cats flow sooooo much better than they used to; however I believe it was Adam who corrected my statement last time by saying that there was a noticeable difference on his car when he swapped over, so perhaps Nissan have used more restrictive cats on the Zed than other manufacturers use.

Fair enough, one month out makes no difference anyway.

55 plate ran from Sept 2005 to April 2006 The plate is correct for the car.

I'd be very interested in your opinion, as when I tracked another Zed with RE050s on recently (in damp conditions) I think I actually preferred them to the MPS2 I use on mine, so if the Sessantas are close to them then it's another option to keep in mind...

Noooo not more weight, it's already fat enough as it is

It's all a bit irrelevant really as the cost of running a thirsty V6 £30K sports car means that £200 is neither here or there really. But yeah, Geoff's right. There are a few anomaly imports floating around IIRC, but it's not something I'd lose any sleep over.