Ekona

Can't help your problem, but I'd personally check the small print on the warranty as that sounds like utter tosh to me. Never heard of a main dealer warranty not covering the electrics at all.

Trouble with doing that is you lose any claim for insurance purposes, which is why I'll never ask to get a package marked down in value just in case.

A service is a service, there's not really that much that can go wrong on a P1. It's not like they're dropping the engine/gearbox or anything.

Yeah you'd think, but would you want to take the risk? How much is it up for?

It would need to be around £5K-£6K to even be worth considering. I'd rather have a straight high-mileage '03 then a water-soaked '05, as electrical gremlins don't always show up at first...

I currently drive a '56 Ford Ranger Thunder 2.5L and am waiting for my Wildtrak 3.0L one to come into the country, and I'd still take a Ranger over either of those. Pound for pound you get far better equipment in the Ford than you do in either of those which is why I decided to get another one. The same applied three years ago when I bought the Thunder, so things haven't really changed too much! The L200 is the better looker by far, but then if it's for work it really doesn't matter that much. The Hi-Lux is the other one to choose, and for reliability I'd choose that over either the Mitsi or the Nissan.

You'll likely have issues as that's a 5% difference in profile, sadly.

One could even buy a metal stamp and just emboss a manufacturers name and serial number (real or otherwise) onto a cat, if one so desired... /walks off whistling nonchalantly

Much thinner soles and width means more feel through the pedals, and there's the flameproof side of it as well. I got mine from Demon Tweeks a few years ago, and if you can get to their showroom it's worth a trip as they've got a ton of stuff in stock and you can try them to make sure you get a comfortable fit first time.

You don't have to speed just because you own a sports car you know...

Look, you're thinking of this in the extremes i.e. Nankangs vs R888s, when the difference between the compounds and treads will show up with ANY two tyre makes. I would no more put RE050s on the front and PS2s on the back as I would do the first combination mentioned. If you have tyres that give differing grip levels at different times and in different temperatures then at some point you ARE going to have an issue, and it's juts a case of how bad that issue is going to be. It might just be a an extra bit of slip at >5mph turning into your road, or it might be a full-on tank slapper into the armco on the motorway, and that's the problem: Unpredictability. There isn't a car manufacturer in the entire world that puts mixed tyres on their cars, and there's a very good reason for that.

It's not about pushing it either, the differences between compounds can be so extreme that it could catch you out on a gentle motorway sliproad if the conditions are right.

It's not about driving on ice, it's about how the rubber reacts to the road conditions no matter what type. To blindly say that it's not an issue is to completely misunderstand the entire point and is borderline idiocy. One day you will get caught out and at that point you'll probably wish you listened a bit more, or just blame it on that magical diesel spill that appeared from nowhere.

Has more to do with the different compounds than the tread depth (although that will have an effect as well of course). Better tyres on the rear = understeer and better tyres on the front = oversteer. Trouble is that both front and rear will heat up differently and react differently to wet conditions, and you'll never quite know what's going on which is why it's dangerous IMHO. Profile is irrelevant in this context, as I was referring to the two different makes of tyre rather than the sizes.

First off don't mix tyres on the Zed, so either get a pair of T1-Rs or a pair of PZRs and do it sooner rather than later, and then adjust your pressures to suit. I assume that's not the same size all round though?

Depends on what tyres you're running. As a rule 35psi all round is a good place to start, but tyres with softer sidewalls (eg T1-Rs) will need a couple of psi extra, whereas harder ones will want a bit less. I run the PS2s at 33F/35R.

I believe it was on the Merc S-Class first (like most things), and agree that it's a pretty good idea. Definitely wakes you up when following!

What's the budget? My personal preference would be a 986 Boxster if you can as it's a better car than either, but failing that it comes down to whether you like a revvy engine or a torquey one. I prefer the latter on the road so bought the Zed, however I've driven a Stook on track in anger and found it to be the better track car out of the box by some way. Each to their own really. Personally I wouldn't go back to a car I'd already owned, but that's just me.

BJV all the way. Great prices, even better quality. Really chuffed with the job they did on my Rays.

Yeah, the cross brace front fittings are damn clever but hugely frustrating to fit! I fitted the front and cross bracing myself and it's a straightforward job, but due to running out of time and getting a geo the next day anyway I let DMS fit the rear bits.

I know, I kinda surprised myself with just how good value it was!

:lol: @Rich: Wonder if Adam can do them cheaper from the States? That said, I do genuinely believe that even at Envy prices they're still a bargain.

Summit looks identical to the GT Spec stuff so I reckon someone ripped someone else off there, so I don't think it matters which you get now and as such go buy buy the GT stuff from Envy

Doesn't need to be sunny to have the roof down, just not raining I very rarely drive mine with the roof up, no need when the heater is so good. I'd be almost tempted if it wasn't for the fact that the interior still isn't as good as it should be, and that they've made the boot even smaller than on the 350Z droptop.