Ekona

+1 If people want help then they'll (or they should) post their location in the particular thread if it's relevant, else I see no harm in putting something daft in there. If they don't put their location somewhere then they'll get less help, so it's only themselves they're hurting.

Must admit that it seemed a very high load rating for such skinny (relatively speaking) tyres. Certainly 91 or 96 would make far more sense. Don't just assume that Nissan got the tyres right, they may just have had a job lot of tyres left over themselves in the correct sizes that the wheels demand: Sometimes it's better to do the homework yourself so you understand what's needed, and can make the decision for yourself.

Doesn't need to match the rears on load rating, only the speed and obviously the size. 100Y is 800KG per corner and 186MPH, which is miles more capacity than you need.

And would it surprise you to say that I have, and it was the single most wretched experience of driving I've ever had? No? Well, that surprises me. Having no sidewall of course reduces flex, and it also gives you a bone-crushing ride along with zero feel from the tyres: You go from loads of grip to bugger all in a heartbeat. As your experience proves you can get used to that which is fine, but for 99.9% of normal people it's useless. And it still looks ugly as hell.

Utter chav look unless on an old classic VW, and it'll make the car handle like @*!#. Really don't see the point at all.

Umm, well done? For all you know he wasn't trying to 'race' you at all, just pottering along on his way to work in his trusty 2.7 Boxster. He now thinks that all 350Z owners are tits for trying to prove how much better their car is in a pointless TLGP. I don't know the set of lights in question but unless it's signposted for a road in particular then it doesn't sound like he did a lot wrong really. *shrug* Each to their own, as long as you're happy.

Which forum did he post on? The guys over at IMOC really know their stuff, and it's nice place to hang out as well.

Are they yellow? Did they come in the proper box from a reliable source?

Go to Nissan, about £12 each IIRC. They'll be able to tell you which one to order.

Mine's the same, bit of tape round the connector just in case holds it in perfectly so far. It all worked so I wasn't really bothered about it.

Unless you're running FI then messing about with the plugs will only ever produce a really minor difference either way. Get whichever is the cheapest IMHO, even if you gain 1bhp is it worth the extra expense? Crap new plugs will make the difference over brilliant older ones anyway.

Make sure the screen is completely clean (use a bit of washing up liquid if you don't have proper glass cleaner) before you use the rubber sticky pads. Doesn't hurt to whack the heater on for a bit to warm the inside of the screen either. I track my car and my holder doesn't fall off

Doesn't fit properly though at the base ;)

Surely it's as simple as to whether you want to put the roof down or not? Neither car is that different from the other in the drive that it really makes a difference which one you go for on that count, so just make your decision based on that.

Do you have another OBDII device you can use to check that the port itself is okay? Or do you have access to another car you can try the controller in (doesn't need to fit the pedal connectors, only the OBDII side for power).

Sadly I can't be any further help, but your letter to them is a great example of how you should write a complaint letter. Brilliantly composed. Given you've got the opinion of a couple of roof experts and are still in warranty, then even if Nissan still play hardball over this I would strongly suggest that you'd have a fantastic case if this needed taking to court. /IANAL

An ironing board?

Been thinking about this a fair bit recently, and I think I may have found a way forward but wanted to get a few opinions from you guys on here. The usual harness bars won't fit a Roadster due to the roll over hoops situated just behind the seats, so I've been thinking of another way round this. Looking at it, there is enough room between seats and hoops to fit a custom-made bar and to bolt it through the existing seat belt mountings using some slightly longer bolts, and then using wrap around harnesses. You can remove most of the interior and mount something, but that's not an option for me at all: I want to keep the inside stock. I've fitted a very similar system on my old VXR220, however that was an OEM (well, Lotus) designed bar that obviously had the weight of their technical knowledge behind it which far outstrips mine! It too bolted through the seatbelt mounts, however the loads on it were more horizontal that vertical as would be the case in the Zed. My theory is that the bolts in the existing setup must have a fair amount of strength in them given that they hold the seatbelts in place and a considerable load could be put on them in an accident: However, that is offset by the fact that the pretensioners are going to be doing part of the work in reducing this force. My first question is am I right on this presumption so far? I don't profess to be an expert in automotive physics, just a guy with a passing interest from a practical point of view. Assuming that the bolts and mountings are strong enough to withstand these forces on both a seatbelt AND my proposed harness bar in an accident, can anyone think of any other reasons why this can't be done? I'll take any advice on board as if it's going to be a safety issue then it's simply not going to happen full stop: I value my life slightly more than being held in some harnesses on track. That said, if this is a goer I've got a chap in mind who could knock these up day in day out and could possibly then offer them up for sale here for others to use. As always, any and all views welcome chaps.

Anywhere can do an A/C regassing, I'd probably take it to Nissan and get them to do it rather than a generic Kwik Fit place mind.

Silver or yellow calipers

Not sure I understand that? The braking distribution system is always active regardless of ESP on/off, but can be fooled if you're quick and want to use sharp trail braking methods. It doesn't do anything if you change down at high revs as long as you heel + toe/rev match, which you should be doing anyway if changing down hard else you'll kill the clutch in no time. Unless yours is an autobox of course, but then I still don't see why the brakes would activate on hard changes: It's the rear wheels that could lock, not the fronts.

Do not speed in France at all. They will relieve you of the contents of your wallet and ban you from driving. /VOE

No deodorant? Stinky git

Oh, if only it stayed out permanently after you switched the damn thing off, that would just about make the Zed perfect for me! Stupid nannying thing