Ekona

That's the spirit!

Ah, I'm glad you said that about bleeding the air, they took a good couple of hours extra than they said they were going to getting the air out! Any tips I can give them?

My original ESR K1 was a perfect fit on my car.

Oh you definitely convinced me, hence I got Nissan to change the slave cylinder today as you suggested but there's no change in the issue at all, so I thought I'd open it up to the masses as it were. I didn't want to keep running back to you via PM taking up your time if the answer was out there and I'd missed the obvious. Sorry if it came across as me ignoring you, I really didn't mean it to look like that.

I'll try to keep this as simple as I can... In short, when the car has been sitting in stop/start traffic OR if the car is warm and you sit there pumping the clutch pedal in idle, the pedal will go from having resistance from pretty much the top to having no resistance whatsoever until half way down when you start to hit the biting point of the clutch itself. The car has been into Nissan today who have changed the clutch fluid (their suggestion as it was a very dark colour) and also the slave cylinder (my suggestion, after reading on here). On the 45 min drive home just now and deliberately putting the car into queuing stop/start traffic the problem remains. It first started doing this a couple of months ago, and now I can replicate it every time. If I let everything cool down (i.e. 20 min motorway run) it goes back to being what I would consider normal again, but if I work the pedal some more the problem returns. Approximately 3000 miles/4 months ago I had an Exedy clutch and Fidanza flywheel fitted, should this be relevant. The car has now done 28K miles in just under 4 years, including some fairly heavy track work (4 or 5 days in the last couple of years). My gut feeling is that one of the seals on the master cylinder has gone/is going, which would mean that it will seal when cold/warm but when hot or under a lot of work the primary seal is allowing fluid past it, but the secondary seal is still holding and allowing me to give the required pressure to the rod to disengage the clutch and change gear. That said, at this point I'm willing to listen to any ideas before I take the car back to Nissan and get them to change the master cylinder as well. The car is booked in with Abbey end of next week to have them listen to the chatter from the gearbox and flywheel which may or may not be connected to this issue (I'm aware that some extra noise is expected with a lightened flywheel, I just don't know if my noise is normal and have no frame of reference hence the trip to Abbey!). I have an upcoming trip to the 'Ring next month so you can see why I'd like to get this sorted before then...! As always, any ideas or comments are more than welcome.

Looks as good as anything else to me. Doesn't seem ridiculously cheap either.

Oi, why do I get bumped to last when we've got the same numbers??!!

Yes, as well as a billion other Bad Things. Don't mix tyres on the Zed full stop.

1: Dcash 274.4WHP JDM 2-3FIDDY 272.2WHP - VQ35DE 3-GT4 Zed 270.1WHP - VQ35DE revup 4-Andlid 265.4 WHP - VQ35DE 5-Jcor 263.8WHP - VQ35HR (no mods) 6-Clazba 262WHP - VQ35DE JDM 7-Rich5259 257.8WHP -VQ35DE (No mods) 8-IanS16 251.9WHP - VQ35DE JDM 9-rdsprint 252.5 - VQ35DE revup (no mods) 10-Lincolnbagie 250WHP -VQ35DE 11-Ekona 242WHP - VQ35DE revup List edited to make mine seem even more pitiful

I've used it both a day after waxing and straight after, and tbh there's really not a lot of difference at all to the finish.

It's even worse when people assume they need more power to be faster... Try getting some decent brakes, some decent rubber and some driver training and then you'll soon realise that the Zed is more than capable of being quick enough when you get the basics right. Just adding another 100bhp won't suddenly make it leave a decent driver in an sporty car for dust.

BFD If it's a good price for you (and I'm guessing it is), then that's all that matters.

They're spindly and make the brakes look tiny, they're also too big for the car and give it a roller skate look. As ever, opinions will differ of course, variety and spice and all that. I'd disown him.

Can someone please tell the RX-8 owner that they've ruined a very beautiful car with those incredibly fugly wheels If you were a true friend, you'd have told him by now

They can, and they will, but they're completely wrong to do so as our cars are legal in another EU country and not having riveted 'plates doesn't make the car dangerous. Try explaining that to the gendarmerie by the side of the road though...

I've never tried them to be honest, although looking at the tread pattern I suspect they're more water-friendly than either the T1R or 452, but probably worse off in the dry.

You're always better to have a matched set all round, even four Nankang ditchfinders are better than mixed anything.

Let me guess, you find the back end very twitchy? It's because the Michelins have far more grip in all conditions than the Falkens. Get some PS2s to match on the back, you'll really notice a huge difference.

Yes it is. All it takes is for one tyre to touch a slightly different part of the road surface (temperature/water/surface composition) and the car will have a hissy fit as well as potentially chuck you into a ditch. Just because you've had no issues so far means absolutely nothing, you've been lucky and nothing more. It's an incredibly dangerous thing to do as you are introducing an element of uncertainty into the one thing that's keeping the car in contact with the hard stuff. Do you know the exact compositions of the tyres you're running? Their thermal expansion points at set temperatures? How much water they disperse at set speeds? It's that kind of data you need to know (or at the very least be aware of) before you start mixing tyres. Unless you go into it with your eyes wide open and in a controlled environment (i.e. not on the road), then it's just about the worst thing you can do in any car, whether it's a 1L Aygo or an 8L Viper.

I need to get some for tomorrow, I'll just grab the Halfrauds ones again as they do the job and come off very easily as well (but not too easily!).

Would now be a good time to point out that WD-40 really isn't what you need for a situation like that, it's actually Plusgas (or similar penetrating oil) that you need?

Shame I don't run the K1 any more, he'd be able to hear me before he sees me! Get him to pop along the Mulsanne on Friday about lunchtime, that's the one place I can guarantee I'll be in the next week.

I saw it and just had to have it

I'll be there again, and hopefully I'll be able to keep my driving licence this year!