Ekona

He kinda right though Rich. Get a shed for commuting if you must but don't try and justify a diesel as a fun car: It won't be, you've done that with the Civic and got bored and moved on. Hell, even something like a 330i E46 will be a decent car for fun but still give decent fuel consumption.

Locked as I'm not entirely comfortable with this being here: I've seen the way these threads tend to go across many different forums over the years, and the end result is never pretty. I'm going to consult with the Team and see what they think before going any further.

Nicely done Rich Do us a favour and either post up or send us the original Excel file, I'd love to put a couple of other cars in there and see what the costs come out like.

A full alignment at a specialist should probably be your first port of call over changing your tyres if you want to narrow down the possibilities at minimum cost. Spending £100 for a decent setup will be more beneficial to the fault finding process at this point than swapping tyres, although personally I would do both. Whereabouts in the world are you?

I did not see that anyone had posed before me, OK then, you and Ekona Win No chance, there was a good six minutes between posts, so I'm having the win all to myself

Round the world cruise.

Awkward bugger, you know what I mean

Regardless of whether the tyres are causing the issues or not, you need to get some decent rubber on there instead of what you have now. If that solves the problem great, if not at least you've ruled it out and then will have good tyres too.

Stunning I toyed with the idea of getting one instead of the 911, it's just the lack of storage space and relative fragility that stopped me. Well, that and the fact my best mate is probably going to be picking one up in a few months so I can just swap cars with him for a weekend!

See, I'm the opposite. I have never seen a car with aftermarket wheels that suited it better than the OEM ones, although I'll include OEM option wheels in that (like Rays on the Zed for example). The 355 is miles better looking in every department than the 458. It's like comparing Holly Willoughby to Jordan: The latter may have more plastic tat on it, but it doesn't compare to the natural beauty of the former.

Surely most ones will, you just put down an annual mileage of 0.

AAAARRRRRGGGGHHHHHH I'M GOING TO MAKE SURE YOU BURN IN HELL

IMS effected 996 and 997.1 owners too, although the numbers involved worldwide really aren't as great as the rumours make them out to be. RMS is a far more common problem, however that one is decidedly less terminal.

I guess it all depends on what you want from a tyre. If you want something cheap that is legal then the T1Rs and 452s are perfect. If you want your car to actually handle and grip and stop then I'd spend my money elsewhere. Horses for courses, really.

@RT: They are. Maybe okay on an MX-5 or a Clio RS, but they don't belong anywhere near a £30K 300bhp sports coupe IMHO.

They're like the Falken FK452s, i.e. cheap budget tyres. Go for the Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta or the RE050As.

Whatever, it doesn't make that much difference. I usually leave about 15 mins, but checking from cold is equally as valid. One or the other is fine and has been for decades.

Which Proxes? There are multiple ones. Everything you need for tyres is in this thread, including a wonderfully detailed and honest review of many tyres by yours truly

How hard can it be in this day and age for a car manufacturer to make the low oil light blink when it's at the bottom of the dipstick, i.e. before it gets to dangerously low levels?! They spend forever and a day inventing useless crap like vibrating seats if you stray over a line or magic cameras that park the car automatically, but the basic stuff they still don't bother with!! Boils my ****, it does. /rant

Close

Overfilling is as bad as underfilling, you can blow all the seals and render the engine useless. Tbh you really need to read the level off the dipstick, I appreciate it's not that easy but neither is it impossible. Read from both sides, wipe in-between dipping and only read after the car has been sat still for 10-15 mins on a level surface. You're taking a hell of a chance reading using the pressure gauge alone. I'll admit to doing so on my old car, however that was in conjunction with reading off the dipstick and knowing how pressure equated to levels on my particular engine: It'll be different between cars.

I swear to god if I see that irritating piece of spam chain letter mail one more time I'm going to go postal.

Who is the main driver? It's not clear from your post, and you seem to be flirting with the idea of fronting which is a big no-no and will deservedly see you in big trouble if you're caught.